How Long is too Long to Have a Saw at the OPE Dealer for Repairs?

I had thought of having Kevin do the 261 (pro model 50cc) but the price was rather hard to swallow for a cheapskate like me. Plus if its more powerful i wont use the other saws as much. Plus the porting price could buy me another saw! CAD trumps porting!

 

It doesn't if you run a saw that's been properly ported. You'll be hooked and stock saws just won't do. Trust me there, quality trumps quantity.

 

Hmm...you shouldn't have had these issues so quick then...carb must have been adjusted poorly...

 

I agree but its a cheap homeowner saw. There are no adjustment screws in this saw.

 

Ah yes...I forgot about that part...

 

Kind of what im afraid of. What is the correct FHC disorder name for being addicted to porting etc?
I have CAD, is it PSD?
Also have ADD, ADHD, OCD, and DDD (thanks Carlos Mencia), might as well add another to the list!

 

What caused the screen to become clogged? Excess sawdust? Ive heard of removing the screen

 

No, no. Even opening up muff, keep the screen.
With the drought this summer, sparks can set off brush, undergrowth, leaves....you.
BTW: 50-1 is most used mix for both H and S .

 

Does the saw idle a lot?

 

When i had the non start issue back in August, id let it idle when i wasnt cutting so it would sit at idle for extended periods....minutes at a time. Ive done the same since.

 

So if the screen is the weak link, how will opening up the muffler help...unless you do it in a way that bypasses the screen?
As has been well established around here already, I personally don't care for 50:1, but in this case if the saw is adjusted so fat, then 50:1 might be ok...not sure how to feel about that...guess if a $170 saw doesn't last 20 years, its not the end of the world.
And I suppose this is all pointless since the saw is gonna be sent down the road anyways...

 

Not sawdust. Improper burning of the fuel. Letting it sit and idle for minutes at a time will clog the screen quick. Personally I'd run that saw at 50:1 with 89 octane gas since you can't adjust the carb. The extra pennies spent for better gas outweighs the headache of a crappy running saw.

 

Not so well established since most use 50-1 as speced by the factory.
Wait, wait --Brad is sending the 170 to Maine....postpaid. Please empty all tanks ? Thx.

Right.

 

"Oh,I'm a lumberjack, and I'm OK.
I sleep all night, and I work all day.
.....
I cut down trees, I eat my lunch.
I go to the lava-try.
On Wednesdays 'e goes shoppin'
And has buttered scones fort tea......"

much much more interesting stanzas...

from Monty Python's Flying Circus

 

Good thing they all have their scabbards on.

 

Do 50:1. And since you're not going e-free don't waste $$ on 91. Use 87. These saws are designed to use 59:1, e10 that's only 87 octane. Stock that is...

Use the money you save on gas and oil and trips to the dealership to buy the top handle you want. At the rate you use your saws, that new saw will be bought soon on savings alone.

 

Stihl recommends at least 89 octane in their saws. Water under the bridge since he's getting rid the saw.

 

Yes indeed! Chain saw masks for social distancing!

 

No, it's being sent postpaid to Maine.
Never waste.
Don't know "scabbard".

 

Im confused about the octane. Dealer 30 years ago said use 89 and that was my 028 then 026. Ive been told to use higher octane now and some even use 93??? Isnt airplane/racing fuel 100 octane but without the ethanol??? Ive heard a log of guys run their saws on it.
All my saws are run with Stihl 40/1 full synthetic (silver bottle) mixed with 91 octane. I burn through two gallons in about six weeks give or take. I personally think the extra oil is better lubrication for the saw?
Im tempted to buy a gallon of the Stihl non E fuel and run the 028 and maybe 194 with it since i dont use them as often. My understanding sitting fuel with ethanol is bad for rubber parts in the saw.