Converting a Horizontal/ Vertical splitter to a push-through style

I probably should have kept a better video journal but didn't think of it til the other day. This is a beam that will be swapable, meaning it can be brought back to factory if this doesn't work out as well as I think it will.






Here are a couple pics of the machining pieces-parts and steel from the scrap yard as well as steel from our farm.







Finished welding the pusher tonight. I also have the bronze wear guide re-machined to make it adjustable. I still need to make up the piece that will be welded on the side of the push plate to allow for the set screws to keep the bronze snug against the top of the beam.



I'll try to be more diligent in taking pics and maybe some more video if there is interest.

 

I am interested, keep posting please!

 

Ambitious project, looks great and will be watching the progression !

 

Very interested, keep posting!

Push through are great for difficult to split wood, as well as for having the splitter load the trailer instead of having to handle each split after they have been split. Obviously depending on the setup.

 

Yeah, I found that out this past Friday night. I impulse purchased a push-through splitter that I saw a guy dragging through town. I pulled in next to him at a gas station to ask some questions and take some pics. He said he was thinking of selling. Sold it for $400. I was thinking about reselling it once I pulled some ideas from it but think I'll keep it. Both are getting a log lift and my original one is getting trays and discharge chute.

 

Didn't have time yesterday to get anything done. Had a few hours this evening to get a little work done on the pusher. I'm getting better at welding as I go. May have to grind out a few and re-weld, we'll see.

Quick trial fit on components. Just using whatever bolts I had on the welding table. Need to trim plastic wear sheet on the edge where I welded a the underside of the plate and threaded adjustable bar.

 

Keep up pics love pics

 

Slip over 4-way is one the menu today. 3° forward angle.

Might be a wee bit sharp, but if it deforms it's an easy angle grinder fix.

 

Lots of machining, grinding and welding today.

 

Getting some flex in the beam top. Maybe some lube will work. If not, I'm going to punch some new holes that are lower for the cylinder mounts on each end.

 

Yowsah...the upper flange was bowed up pretty good there!
I think with a 4 way on there you will need to get that cylinder dropped down to where it almost lays on the beam...better the sled trying to "drag its butt" when heavily loaded than to dig in nose first...but then maybe it will just try to dig in underneath...hmm...yup, more lube!

 

How tough would it be to go with a heavier beam? That upper flange is too thin IMHO.
You could possibly increase the thickness with a stich welded flat bar, and just increase the thickness of the gibbs (spacers).

 

Since I am going to have to add a jack to the tongue anyway, I may just do that. There is a 10"x3/4" beam at the scrap yard. I just didn't want to make it "unnecessarily" heavy.

 

10" tall x 3/4" flange thickness? That would put you around a W10 x 60 or 68 (.680 or .770, respectively) That would work.

edit- With the amount of work you have into it so far, the flange width might be the deciding factor on a new beam. What is the existing width?

 

Getting ready for another test. Geometry looks better.

 

Uhggg...free steel ain't worth it.

 

Can't like that! Did the wood come into the 4 way wings unevenly and make it twist?

 

I think there was a knot on the one side. Still splits with the warped vertical wedge. I'm going to use it this way for this season and make a better beam and wedge over the winter. This time I'll pony up for AR400 or Hardox. I'll probably have a buddy water jet the profiles as well.

I split almost a full tote tonight after the failure. I am sold on the push-through design. Most of my time was in the pusher and four way. The four-way got dinked too, pics of that tomorrow. I'm glad I didn't destroy the OEM setup and can have it back in that configuration with 2 pins and a single 1/2" bolt.

 

6", but anything can be milled down to size.