I bought this wheel on ebay and it took 94 days for an overseas trip. Runs super smooth, grinds great and has enough abrasive to last well beyond me. I feel bad that feedback time expired. Also it's made in lithonia not CHINA!!
I have a CBN wheel for my 3/8 x .50 Stihl chains on my Super Jolly and that thing is great! With that wheel, and with setup help from huskihl, my chains are throwing chips almost as big as if I were noodling. I hadn't thought about a CBN for the depth gauges... hmmmmm.
I loathe vitrified wheels and grinding tooling is a big part of my job so I was excited to find a 1/4" wide wheel to fit the Oregon style grinder.
Looks like spell check bit you. Lithuania, not Lithonia. Either way it beats China. Diamond Wheels | CBN wheels | CDX wheels for grinding and sharpening
Nice setup Screwloose . I too despise vitrified wheels. I like resinoid much better although they wear much faster and are dustier. For rakers I use a diamond to profile the 1/4" wheel so that it matches the profile factory rakers rather than a flat profile the stock 1/4 wheel will give. One tip, your grinders have a tremendous amount of travel to get to the cutting tooth. I tie a shoe string on them so the grinder head only has to move a little bit to make contact. I can't find a pic right now of the profiled wheel. The last 3 pics are a prototype Silvey style vice rather than the clamp from the bottom Oregon style.
Yep I do the same. I have a wheel that is profiled to the shape of the raker and that is all it gets used for.
I do the same thing as far as limiting the amount the grinder rises above the tooth. As far as the raker wheel it is a 1/4" wide but also has 1/4" of resin bonded CBN abrasive that I am able to dress into any profile I desire. Sometimes it is nice being in a machine shop. I have always profiled my depth gauges but now do to the popularity of that new 2 in 1 filing guide that just uses a flat file I'm wondering if just following the angle of the mark on the gauge is satisfactory. I mean if the leading edge of the depth gauge is below the the bottom of the kerf what difference does it really make ? I will experiment before I mess with the wheel. Also since these are at home it does a awesome job on freehand drill bits ect.
You are correct in that the highest point, (rather than leading edge which may or may not be the highest point) ultimately determines the amount of bite the working corner of the chain is going to take. IMHO, a flat file raker will not be as smooth as one that is rounded like the OEM profile. The important thing is the amount of degrees from the working corner to the top of the depth gauge must be maintained. i.e. as the chain is ground more, the absolute distance from the top of the raker to the depth gauge must increase. Just my two cents.
I agree. But the front of the gauges are radiused anyway so no matter what you don't end up getting a blunt edge. For now I will experiment with the head tilted at 10° and the wheel still square. Pretty much in line with the mark on the gauge.
Bought mine here. https://www.diamondwheelinc.com/chain-saw-wheels.html Tossed all those pink wheels in the trash
Straight but I’ll agree profiling would be better. My chains can run a little rough but I’m not sure if that’s an aggressive grind angle, flat profile rakers or too deep of rakers. I’ve had all those issues
