As for 10k vs 14k - whats the difference in trailer weight and what is your truck tow rating? Edit: I see above F250. Probably go with the 14k, your truck can probably handle 14k max if need be? Cant hurt to have a trailer that matches your trucks max ability.
I Have an Eagle Premier 6x12 that I bought new in 2000, it has been a Great Trailer, No Regrets, except that I didn't go a bit Bigger, and heavier axles, 2 x 3,500# It has more than earned it's keep, I've run the tires off it. I replaced the deck boards in 2016, also rewired it with LED's and Soldered wiring connections, and treated it to a Krylon Rattle Can Paint job, had several people ask me when I got the New Trailer. I can't imagine not having it around Doug
I would definitely go 14k if your F-250 can handle it and you plan on having that truck or one like it for many years in the future. I have and will continue to have a 10k rated truck for the foreseeable future. If I were to buy another trailer that is the capacity I would buy.
Our equipment trailer is a local company built. Dump trailer is Big Tex. Was going to get a PJ, but the dealer had sold out, had long backorder. All very similar.
I have a car hauler that I use for all your talking about. Mines dovetail so not best for off road. It has stake pockets. I have put wood on it, golf carts, four wheelers, zero turns, my small Yanmar tractor with implement attached and another one up front, power wheels, and about any combination of the above that you can think of. It's a tandem 3500 pound axle trailer for 7k gross which only leaves you about 5500 after you take out the trailer. I have had around 8000 pounds on it before I bet. Hauling green oak. I paid like $1200 or $1500 for it new (i did opt for used tires so it cut the price a bit) . The junk treated wood deck had to be replaced at seven years but that's not the trailer makers fault that was the wood. It's a Lone Wolf trailer. I think there in either Alabama or Arkansas? They have a website. Also order a bigger trailer than you think you need. I wish I had 20ft all the time. But that would of been a more expensive trailer and have a heavier unloaded weight. I don't think the extra length would pay off for the more expensive price the times I actually needed it.
Thanks for all the advice. This thread is quite old but it took me that long to pull the trigger. Picked it up last weekend. Pj 16+2 with 14k gwr. Really like I t so far, gates are nice, Jack is great, can’t see any shortcuts. This was an early picture just getting rid of trash from barn. I have since finished out the sides all the way down. I also picked up a Tekonsha trailer brake controller and got the installed today. Had to order the OEM harness separately and it came today. One strange thing is that after I got it all setup and connected to the factory plug behind the coin tray, everything was working fine, but the led lights that show the unit has power even when disconnected we’re still glowing. Long after I took the key out and shut the door. Just two little led dots but has to draw some battery power. Anyone have experience with this???
Maybe it's just getting power from an internal capacitor. Such little draw it wouldn't matter. You said it does it totally disconnected from the vehicle? I wouldn't worry about it. Even if they stayed on two LED is not going to matter. Modern cars have so much computer load they always have a drain. My 20 year old Highlander with a good battery will go completely dead in 4 to 6 weeks not cranked just from all those computer sensors being ready to go when needed. Things like door unlock sensors etc.
I have the same brake controller. It stays on for a while after the truck shuts off. Never a problem.
