An interesting project

I have an older lean to I built probably around 2012. Its 20' L x 12' W. It has served its purpose, but the ceiling height is too low, and the footprint isn't big enough. I got the materials for free, so I can't complain. Fast forward to 2020, after drawing up different designs multiple, multiple times, I decided to tear down the existing lean to (3 walls and roof), extend the pad, and build higher walls with a traditional gable roof. That isn't the interesting project though.


In thinking about the old roof, which is still in good shape, I can't bring myself to cut it up and dispose of it. Therefore, I've decided to "attempt" to move it to another location on the property, in one piece, and attach it to the barn as a lean-to. The barn is about 150-175 feet from its current location.

Here is the lean-to roof, after walls removed, and roof temporarily supported.



Of course, the exact spot where the middle sonotube will need to go is exactly where this pine tree is.





In order to cut the Pine tree, the overflow "woodshed" has to be moved. In order to be moved, it has to be emptied, in order to be emptied, I need another place to put the wood. Hence the recent woodshed extension which was on my projects list for awhile anyways.

 

So now that the wood has been relocated, I plan to move the makeshift woodshed, cut the tree, dig out the stump, dig my 3 sonotubes, pour them, and when I get ready to frame the other building I will "attempt" to move the roof over to this barn which will have a 2x10 ledger just below the soffit. The low end height under the beam will be right at 7'. I'll install the 2 ply beam and 3 posts to support the roof. I "hope" to utilize fork extensions on my Kioti. If need be, I'll strip the roof to reduce the weight. Its about 2.5 square of shingles, which is about 600-650 lbs.

 

That IS an interesting project. Looks like it'll be a great setup by the time you're through, and well worth the aggravation. What were your thoughts on moving the roof in one piece? On that trailer supported with 4 x4s or with fork extensions on a backhoe or something?

 

My thoughts are....

My Kioti is rated to lift 2761 lbs full height. Of course that figure is somewhat meaningless as its at the pin, and when you account that the roof is about 13' x 20'. The weight will be way out, so essentially a huge lever. Maybe an engineer here can translate the force differences as you go out each additional foot. In real world experience, I have used fork extensions with my Kioti to move this chicken coop. This coop is solidly built. 2x8 floor joists, 2x4 walls, 2x6 rafters. I basically drove the trailer to where the coop was going, picked the coop up off the trailer a few inches, drove the trailer away, lowered it to within a foot or so of the ground, backed up about 10 feet and lowered the coop in place. I don't think I could have driven any considerable distance with it. Even with a rear weight box on the three point, and filled rear tires, the 7k lb tractor had a rear tire off the ground.




Since then, I have added another couple hundred lbs to the weight box



I still have doubts that it will work. Its too awkward an object. My real options are to use my fathers JD310 backhoe. It doesn't have any forks, but it is rated to lift about 6k. It weighs probably 2.5 times what my Kioti weighs.

Or....

Cut the roof into two pieces and re-attach afterwards. This option involves more work and wont be as strong.

 

Another option is to lower it onto a flatbed, drive it to the barn and pick it up.

 

According to the engineers toolbox, the 1/2" plywood is about 40 lbs/sheet, and the 13' 2x8's should be about 35 lbs/board.

So...

40x8=320 lbs
35x15=525 lbs

The structure wthout shingles should be about 850-900 lbs. With shingles about 1450-1500 lbs.

 

Sounds like the snow ball effect you have going on there. One thing leads to another.

You are ambitious I will say that. Wish I had your energy.

 

I thinking this option has best % chance of success.

 

You forgot the part where you take the tire pressure down to 5 PSI, drive under, re-inflate to lift....then reverse order once in place

Nah, I was thinking you could use the loader to lower the roof and put some dolly wheels under the 2 outside corners...maybe some old trailer axles or something like that? Then use the loader to push/guide/carry the whole thing to its new home

 

Or back a flatbed trailer (car trailer?) under the roof, stack pallets on the trailer until they are up to roof height, jack roof, one more layer of pallets, drive away.

 

Can you fell the pine and leave a tall stump as a support post rather than go through all the trouble of stump removal, digging for sonotube, pouring concrete? Would make for an interesting conversation piece, not too mention it would look pretty cool!

 

One of the guys at work just built a pole barn using dead pine trees as the poles...he said it turned out great...but he is also kind of a goob so...I haven't seen it, but I doubt it works out well in the long term...

 

I like that idea. My vote goes for you.

 

I thought about that. There are a few problems. The Pine tree is 16-17" at the base, and has a decent flared root on the barn side, so Id loose quite a bit of space. It would eventually rot. Its not dead center where the middle pier would go, its prob off 12", and lastly I may want to pour a concrete pad someday. Pine stumps pop out pretty easy, shallow roots.

 

I use this method to put my chains on back tires in fall.

 

I got the Pine tree down and bucked up.



Cleaned up the area around it a little bit. I hope to dig it out fairly soon and pour the three sonotubes for the roof beam to post down to.



The pile I ended up with. I'd guess its 1/2-2/3 of a cord

 

What was the DBH? (diameter breast height) The cordage yield can be determined if known.
I often refer to this chart. Found it to be pretty accurate
Estimating Firewood from Standing Trees - UC ANR

 

Thanks Brad!!!

This tree at 4.5' was 16" DBH. According to the chart, it should be .5 cords, which sounds about right.