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Sawing technique

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by DaveGunter, Jun 29, 2020.

  1. DaveGunter

    DaveGunter

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    Many times in videos of log bucking, I see the operator rock the entire saw forward, pointing the tip of the bar at the ground and then return the saw to horizontal to finish the cut. What's the point of this technique?
     
  2. Dumf

    Dumf Banned

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  3. farmer steve

    farmer steve

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    I'll do that when I'm cutting on the ground or close to it. I can watch the tip and see how close I am to the ground and then pull back and finish my cut on the side close to me. If that makes sense.
     
  4. Dumf

    Dumf Banned

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    Or, roll the log so the saw won't touch dirt.
     
  5. farmer steve

    farmer steve

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    Some ya just can't roll.:hair:
    20200316_102023.jpg
     
  6. Firewood Bandit

    Firewood Bandit

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    The only reason would be if the bar won't reach all the way through. The "see sawing/teeter tottering" often seen in videos is just a way to really slow down the cut since you pull a lot more saw dust out going back through the cut again.
     
  7. Dumf

    Dumf Banned

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    Never, cut to "rollable" length, hook it, roll. Done.
    Steve- Send Benjamin .
     
  8. CoachSchaller

    CoachSchaller

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    It can keep my chain out of the dirt while cutting the most log before rolling it over.
     
  9. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    I do it when using the 170 on stuff just past 16”.... I could use a bigger saw, but the 170 helps my lower back stay in the mood longer.
    Cut vertical from far side (after checking for any bad things/rocks) til I know the horizontal cut will have the bar tip in the clear. Also eliminates cutting from both sides. And log rolling, which tends to put my lower back at risk. But- that’s just me dealing with chronic back issues. YMMV.
    No Benjamin’s needed.
     
  10. Dumf

    Dumf Banned

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    Eric: Benjamin needed for the incredible consult. PM for address. :pete:
    My back problem solved with log rolls with an extension for the peavey handle==torque.
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2020
  11. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Still not worth a Benjamin... I’m already aware of the torque involved.
    Have to agree to break even.
     
  12. iowahiker

    iowahiker

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    "The point of this technique" as questioned by the OP:

    To reduce the length of wood in contact with the cutting teeth.

    Why would you want to reduce the number of saw teeth in contact with the wood?

    - Manage the flow of chips out of the cut, a saw can bog down if more chips are cut than are ejected.
    - Reduce the load on the saw motor, all saws have either a maximum or optimum horse-power and engaging too much wood can be less optimum or exceed available hp.

    What is the "optimum"?

    For most folks, the operating conditions which cut the round under the saw as quickly as possible.
    Another choice would be based on saw sound, high speed unloaded.

    A cutter that does not rock the saw considers the "optimum" to be engaging as many teeth at the same time as possible while cutting. A cutter who does rock the saw considers the "optimum" to be engaging a limited number of teeth at a time. The best part of sawing, you get to choose.
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2020
  13. chris

    chris

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    Hence the reason for CAD.
     
  14. Firewood Bandit

    Firewood Bandit

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    Your whole argument falls on it's face when you watch skilled operators in chainsaw races. THEY DO NOT ROCK THE SAW. They make 3 cuts as fast as possible and "Rocking" is not part of the equation.

     
  15. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Slightly to the contrary, and not to be wholly argumentative- those races are based on a dimensioned cant on a horse/support. Been to several of those races myself to watch.
     
  16. Mag Craft

    Mag Craft

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    Firewood Bandit has it right. I only do that if the log is wider than the bar other wise it is faster to cut horizontal all the way through.
     
  17. MikeInMa

    MikeInMa

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    On a horizontal log that is wider than my 16 bar, I'll reach to the far side an cut as much as I can, with the bar nose pivoting down.. Then bring the saw back horizontal an cut down through the now thinner log.

    I think others have said that. But my 2coppers
     
  18. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Right. In ideal conditions, the whole cut horizontally is fastest. But sometimes limitations present themselves.
     
  19. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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    I heard it refered to as overbucking. As mentioned above, if the bar is not quite long enough to reach through a log.

    I do it a lot because i keep a 16" bar on the 241 in the toolbox on the quad
     
  20. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    I'll use the technique initially when bucking a log that is off the ground and would pinch the bar if cut straight down. By reaching to the far side and cutting vertically, I'm eliminating wood to be cut while leaving a narrower but vertical intact piece of wood. Kind of like a wide joist. I'll then cut from the top down until I see or feel the wood pinch a bit and then cut from the bottom up to finish the cut. The log is going to pinch about the same place vertically in the cut whether or not wood on the far side has been cut. By going after the wood on the far side first, I am reducing the amount of time that I need to spend doing the bottom up cut to finish off.. The cut on the far side that goes to the bottom of the log also gives me a reference point from which to start the upward cut.