How can I identify an old splitter

Hi. New member here. I thought maybe someone could help me identify an old log splitter my neighbor gave me before he moved away. There is a label on the 7 hp Briggs engine that says Henzler's outdoor Power Equipment, Lemay, Mo. They appear to no longer be in business and then there is no guarantee that engine is the original anyway. On what I think is the hydraulic breather cap it says Lenz Co. Dayton, Ohio. I don't know if they are the manufacturer of the splitter or maybe just the hydraulic ram and valve mechanism. I'd sure like to find any literature like the owner's manual if possible. Here is a pic of it with the engine off and then of that engine. Any info would be appreciated.

 

Welcome, someone will help you shortly I am sure!

 

Lenz is the maker of the hydraulic cap.
That sure is an oldy...I think you will need to just deal with the individual components separately. Look for data tags on each piece.
You should be able to find model/serial numbers on the engine too (unless you are just going to re-power it) and I would think a good hydraulic shop could ID and service the pump, valve and cylinder. The cylinder doesn't really need to be ID'd...the shop can disassemble, measure and then just match up seals and packing.
Should be too hard to make 'er split again.
And welcome to FHC

 

Looks somewhat similar to our old Didier. That old Briggs and Stratton is 35+ years old. That's what our Didier had on it.

Easy fix is to put a new predator 6.5 hp on it like we did. If that's what you need, it's a $100 fix/ upgrade. What else are you needing? Lovejoy coupler?

I'd say that anything you can't buy at a fan store, can be welded to fix it. . The beauty of old stuff

 

Welcome to the club, lots of great folks here sharing knowledge and humor.

 

Welcome aboard Winch


Yeah, that splitters definitely got some age to it.

But fixin it up should be cheaper than a new one.

 

I should have mentioned I have replaced that engine with a 13 hp Honda. It runs and splits good. It has minor hydraulic leaks and I don't even know where to fill it or how to check if it's low.

Thanks for the replies.

I thought I'd show a pic of the firewood bin I made a few years ago. We used to have a big oval above ground swimming pool with a deck all around it. When we removed the pool I used most of that deck to build the wood bin.

 

If it doesn't have a sight glass built into the tank, and no dipstick attached to the breather cap (probably not very common on a splitter anyways) then with the tank level, you would fill it to within an inch or two of the top...two is probably better than one just because you need to leave room for expansion and working on unlevel spots. Get it too full and it will barf oil out the breather cap when you are sitting low on the breather cap side and you get to the end of the return stroke...especially after the oil heats up and expands. If its not sucking air while working (weird jerky action to the cylinder, or the pump whining intermittently) then it is probably full enough.

Nice work on the wood shed!

 

Very nice woodshed

 

Welcome to FHC. You'll like it here. We like dogs, and beer and lots of pics. Nice wood bin.

 

Couple more questions on that splitter. I should be able to push the valve lever all the way to the back and let off of it and it should stay there while the ram retracts but it only stays there about 25% of the time. It usually pops back into neutral. Is there any adjustments that would make it stay there better? Also there are two hydraulic hoses that attach to fittings on the beam itself. Does that mean that beam is actually a reservoir? If so I sure don't want to drill into it but I would like to attach some brackets to the side of it and I didn't have any luck with my little mig welder.

 

There usually is...if you get us some better pics of the valve we might be able to identify the adjustment.

Yes, beam is also the tank.
You should be able to weld to it...

 

Yes the beam is the tank, as I don't see a filter I wouldn't drill into it. As welding will possibly drop scale I wouldn't do that without a filter either. That said I'd add a filter anyway. The little acorn cap at the back top of the valve should be the pop off adjustment for the return detent. Try removing the cap and turn the screw say 1/2 turn at a time clockwise and see if it helps. I don't see a relief valve anywhere so if it doesn't seem to affect the return detent just turn it back to where it was. What does the tag on the side of the pump mount say?

 

That old of a splitter typically won't auto retract when you push it back. Mine doesn't. We'll, it did 1 time out of 1 million tries. That had to have been a coincidence.

Maybe it has a newer return still valve though?

 

Very nice looking stack & rack

 

Take a close up pic of that valve. It’s possible that it doesn’t have an auto return. If it does, it could be adjusted as mentioned above.

I would drain the fluid before welding on that tank.

I’d- drain the fluid, replace hoses, filters, caps, and fittings where needed, do all my weld ups and modifications, then fill with new fluid and isolate leaks. If the ram itself leaks, you have some decisions to make.

Old splitters can be money pits but can also be a way to save a lot of $ compared to something new.

 

Here are pics of the valve. It has the name Cross on it.

 

That looks old enough to not have the auto return.

 

I wonder what is under the acorn nut on the top of the valve there? Adjustable spring detent?

 

In other news...what's wearing the BFG radial T/A's beside the splitter in the 1st pic there?