Chainsaw Help Please

Could anyone try to help me identify this problem. I bought my first chainsaw a couple days ago, it's a craftsman chainsaw 16". So I was cutting with it and then the chain decided to stop spinning. I have taken the chain off and checked everything, I even took a paper clip and lightly checked the chain frame by running it along the edges that it lays on to see if anything managed to get caught it's fine, the thing at the end of the saw spins really well to. So I thought it might have been the safety thing at first. So I push the safety out and then pulled it back in to reset it. That seemed to get it to work, so I cut a log in half with it and then went to cut again and it would not spin again. But something I noticed after I did safety reset first was when I started the chainsaw the chain was spinning on its own without having to enable it to spin. Also it's brand new not used!

 

Honestly I would take it back to where you bought it if it is not functioning properly.

 

Take it back. Guessing you got it from a box store so they might not have anybody to help you. If you can return it and get money back I would consider that.

How much did you pay for it? Many of us here could probably lead you to a better saw from a dealer. A good dealer will be able to help you out when you have little problems like this.

 

Sounds like the brake is engaging too easily. You sure you aren't popping the brake flag forward with L hand? And chain spinning at idle = too lean on L or too high on T/Idle.
Agree with buy from a dealer when a newbie...Like Stihl MS170 is $159 now.

 

Sounds like you are accidently hitting the chain brake. Happens once in awhile to everyone.

Also the idle sounds like it is to high and could use some adjusting down. The top screw hole in the cover is the idle and it takes a small screw driver. CCW will bring down the idle.
These small saws are fine but you do get what you pay for.

 

That was exactly the problem lol. I took it back to the store and the guy checked it and explained it to me. I kept on hitting the brake on without realizing it. I took it back home and haven't had a problem with it. Hey at least I wasn't one of those guys who throw it away or sell it to a local resident for cheaper than what I paid for I mean I did check the safety brake but I didn't know I kept on hitting it back, I could have done that putting it back down and then went to use it and didn't realize it. I did look at the safety thing though now. I realize there is a big space difference between my hand and the brake when it's on verse when it's off.

 

Ask a logger or arborist to show you how to "kick" the chain brake on with your left forearm when you want the brake on. You could be holding the saw wrong.
Brakes on saws are designed to be set only in a kickback or when set. The CLP training in Maine tells us to always set the brake when walking with a running saw.
Gets to be a good habit when moving from one side of a trunk to a back cut. Too many times I've tripped over roots and brush walking with a saw running.

 

I view it like a decocker on a da/sa pistol, if your not actively using it again, sweep the decocker/ chain brake. It becomes habit. It has saved me when falling on roots or small stumps.

Unless I’m using the throttle, or sharpening with the saw off, the brake is on.

 

You know there was a time not to long ago that saws were made without brakes. It really is all about safe practices with or without a brake. I hardly ever use the brakes on my saws.

 

I never did either. After a stressed Maine CLP training, some trips on my butt with a running saw, and a couple of close calls, I use the chain brake often.
Do I want a close call with my tools when starting ? No more "drop starts" BTW. Few crotch starts with larger saws. Now I always start with the brake on ( yes, it's harder ).
That's why the chain brake is there--to protect your azz......and moi.

 

Well I happen to own a bunch of those saws without chain brakes and I do use those saws. So I guess I learned to be careful having that knowledge.

A training program like you are talking about probably would not even allow one of those saws into their program.

 

Tough road to be careful all the time. Kickbacks happen such as hitting iron in wood, or boring the wrong way, or plain accidents.
Chain brakes ( like air bags, seat belts, Kevlar vests, full PPE, and chaps ) were made to protect us from "not being careful" or those unintended consequences that happen to the best.
It is why logging is the 2nd or first most dangerous job.

 

I grew up with no brakes. Many years ago I bought my first saw with a brake and thought wtf is this crap and to this day the brake assy is still in the drawer.....somewhere.
As a side note the wide velcro on rolls is perfect for holding up the handle on a push more so it doesn't stop when you let go.

 

Just joking but are the bars on your saws really long enough to cause an injury beyond needing a scooby doo bandaid ?

 

"I did not come here to be made light of"
BTW---the bandaid is a Mickey ( M²) one.
BTW #2--skip the velcro. Glad to show you how to do a square knot for the mower.

 

this

 

Reminds me years ago I was in a corporate meeting with a Dora the explorer bandaid on and the president called it out.

 

Whenever walking with a running saw, even just a few steps, or putting it down to adjust logs, I just roll my left wrist to the brake bar, and it snaps into place.

Can't ever be too careful, IMO.

 

Maybe I’m in the minority for carrying a blood stopper kit when sawing in addition to my ppe. Tourniquet , compression bandage, clotting aid, etc. I’m there to get wood to keep my family warm and I can’t do that if I bleed to death.