Hello Most mower decks have sealed bearing that last about 15 years. This LT 1000 deck is 17 years old and when I spin the blades there is some noise and some resistance. So it seems that the only way to keep it going for a few more years is to paint the top and dry moly above the blades. So I cleaned and painted the deck here and watched the vids on greasing. Mower Deck Spring Prep? I got the zerks and put one in then ran out of grease. So waiting for more to come in. See Pics Below Hope this helps? Anyone else have good luck with this? pic 1 - remove pulley with impact air wrench It was stuck, impact really helped pic 2 - Drilled hole for 1/4” x 24 thread Zerk Used 13/64 to make it tight - 1/4” should work too. pic 3 - Lu Max Grease fittings seam higher quality so they may last. Cost about $10 for 10 Pic 4 - tap zerk with hammer to get started pic 5 - used a 5/16” deep socket pic 6 - clean up metal shavings with vac pic 7 - use rubber hose on vac to get more shavings pic 8 - Using red n tacky high temperature grease. Same grease I use on the Englander 25-PDV & 25-PDVC block bearings As the grease goes in, it goes thru the seal and fills the cavity until some oozes out the top.
I've seen this done. If I recall correctly, you have to remove the bearings so you can remove the dust seal facing towards the interior of the spindle. The seal prevents grease from entering the bearing too. The seals could be bad/worn with age and let some grease by. It should buy you a little time. If you can see the top bearing seal you can insert a needle adapter through the seal and push grease right into that bearing.
Thanks for the info Some vids say when you pump in the grease, it pops the seal so I will try this first, such as this vid. pic 1 - grease gun needle to get by the seal. pic 2 - Example of greasing bearing with needle adapter. The black ring is the bearing seal and can be pryed out with an awl or exacto utility knife.
Hello I got new spindles also if this does not work. I do not want to stick the needle into the top seal in the top bearing, and cannot even get to the bottom seal on the bottom bearing. Therefore instead of removing the bearings to remove the inner bearing seals and grease the bearings, by packing grease into the body of the spindle and as you said if the inner bearing seals are worn, then the grease should penetrate the inner seals of the top and bottom bearings. So if it quiets down when turning the blades, then I will know the operation is a success.
I understand not wanting to stab the seals to add grease. But pressure from the grease keeps dirt and dust out. And you have an old spindle already...it can't hurt much if anything. It's already making noise which means the bearings have started to fail. My truck came with sealed no maintenance ball joints and tie rod ends from the factory. I used a needle to add grease every oil change for 15 years before the first joint needed replaced. Now 22 years later half the factory joints are still in use. The joints that have been replaced now all have grease fittings. I'd look at modifying your new spindle and bearings to take grease before they are ever used. It's alot easier when everything is clean and new.
Looks like a success!! For me it was not exactly like the video but I got more grease and started pumping until I heard a pop and the top bearing popped up ever so slightly! Then I saw the grease oozing out of the top seal in the top bearing! Bingo, time to do the other one! See pic below.
Ahh, back in the old days when everything was not meant to be used then thrown away in a couple of years, those actually had zerks to grease. I'd think the non residential units would still have zerks, from the factory, right?
Yes, Some commercial units have zerks, Certainly not this Sears LT-1000 does not! The other side was not so easy because it has a plastic cover over the pulley! So first I had to dig out the dirt between the screw head and the cover with a small blade screwdriver! Then using a thin wall 3/8” socket and thin extension and then tap the extension with a hammer to get it onto the socket. Then the only way to get the rusty bolt out was with a DeWalt impact wrench!! LOL
After I got the second zerk in a started pumping grease in, I noticed the grease was getting all over the outside! Turns out the zerk was not working so I removed and replaced it and then the grease pumped on fine! Put the pulleys back on and am getting the spindle dust cover back on after wire wheeling the bolts and then spraying them with Dry Moly. After bolting the dust cover on with the impact driver, I had to use long nose pliers to get the Drill Driver speed Socket off the bolt head. LOL I did locate the zerk where I can get the grease gun on it without taking all that apart again! One final note: The drill bit I used was a 15/64 th not the 13 / 64 th I thought it was.
I agree, I did buy 2 new spindles but I really wanted to try the grease after seeing those YouTube vids first. Have to get the deck on and cut the grass soon so we will see how it works.
Spindles and sealed bearings- around my place these sealed units last about 1/2 season- I do not consider $40 ea cheap. ( close to 80 for Oem and exactly the same) This on my residental type mower. Whole different story on 72" Massey Ferguson deck (Belly mower)which is commercial built and is some 30 years old. Course the deck by itself weighs almost as much as the whole residential unit.
If you only get half a season then you’re right, 40$ is expensive. They’re not that expensive on the ultra common craftsman style deck and if don’s, like mine, last more than 15 years then the cost per year goes down to the cheap line. Some replacements are available with grease zercs installed but I don’t know if the bearings are exposed to the grease internally or if it’s just a sales gimmick.
That is the problem they have grease zerks but the bearings are sealed- the next set i will tear them down before installing- i knew about this before hand but was in a hurry before the weather closed down last fall.
How do you remove the bearings to get to the underside to break Or remove the seals? Do the mandrels come out first so how do you pull those? At least a 2 ton bearing press is needed for that? Once the bearing is out then this vid shows if. Guess it is easier to just replace the spindles.
Just to our pull out the bearings I would have to buy a bearing press like this 12 ton press. Right? 12 ton H-Frame Industrial Heavy Duty Floor Shop Press
The design, intent, and economics dictate that this part be removed and replaced when it fails. It is certainly possible to press in new bearings but that’s like refilling a beer can and claiming victory!
That would work. A bench vise or brass rod and hammer should get it. I have a few friends with access to a press if need one. A case a beer is cheaper than buying a press. But if you have to borrow a tool twice, you should own it.
