The cutter marked 2 is a little less aggressive and would probably stay sharp a little longer, but still has enough forward lean to feed well. I’d go with that one.
put unit back together early this morning , that Oregon .404 with .068 drive links is still way too tight. Thought of a relatively simple way to make the slot adjustable - when making up a new one - a raised bar across the center-line ( horz) and a set screw or 2 on either side. There is likely enough free play in the 5/16" hole vs the threaded lock screw to accommodate the few thousandths of wiggle - just a bit of surface grinding or a skim cut on the mill to give a jaw area that would fall just under the tie straps- bonus would be that one could lock the cutter down, if so desired - no rise/climbing as alluded to in the video. ( ya it would slow things down some but some times speed is not your friend) and ya I forgot the xyz camera again today. Fast moving storm last night wind out of the west (25-35mph wind) which piles every thing in front of the garage doors . So I got to try out the used Snow Beast ( yep that is its brand name ) 36" 15hp snowblower I picked cheap about a week ago. The drive system has been messed with so ground speed is from a fast walk to Telsa light speed. I do not weigh enough to leverage the front end up off the ground. What has taken me a couple hours to accomplish with a little 5hp/24" rig took about 20 minutes this morning. OMG,Basically I was hanging on for dear life and that was 1st gear. 3" of sticky white stuff except for the 1.5ft high drift in front of the doors. Clutch lever gets jammed engaged also - dang near took a tire off the truck the hard way. And just to top off the morning the service door of the garage blew open just as I let the pups out into the garage to leave and you might know what that means to our 4 footed companions - Freedom at light speed. Hey dall is it possible for you to post a couple pics of the scarr52 rig? Thanks Chris (Never a dull moment around my place)
only picture I have and for 404 chain you have to run the chain guide in slot all the way back and as low as it will go at the pivot point mid arm
Thanks Dall- for the tip on settings & pic. I have two sizes of .404 one is 1/2 cutter height of the other . the shorter ones are Stilh other is Carlton . Then there are the .375 and .325 units as well. I need to get a macro lens for my camera, but there may be a setting for that- have to get the manual out None of my old school SLR( as in film ) lenses will fit the digital unit I now have ( a Canon) that will take a bit of research . I haven't mastered the camera yet either, at least I remembered how to turn it on and off the other day.
each gauge of chain will have different setups 4043/8 and 325 will have different arm and guide positions
Thanks Dall, well aware of that. dang guide is still too tight. I will have to rummage around my shop and whip something up quick just to get by- refine it later. Back log is getting too deep and ya I forgot the xyz camera again today. At this point I need 3 of me -the other 2 to tell me what I forgot if they remember.
ok so quick and dirty, sliced the oem chain guide in 1/2( grove to grove) slapped a little piece of sheet metal as a spacer apx .061 looks like it will be good enough to get things running as the .063 links slide now with out rocking. I will make a couple thinner spacers for the .050 chains , used to have a box of shim stock rolls around here somewhere but alum pie plates will suffice as well . Plus i keep forgetting to get some heavy duty tinfoil any way from the pdq. Desperation always brings out the simple quick fix ideas just need to add a keeper screw/pin so the 2 haves stay aligned. there is enough flex in the pieces that adding a pressure screw to one side impacting on the opposite side allows for some adjustment tension wise of the end being used. just maybe if i do not crash i will try some grinds this evening. ya ya I know pics or it didn't happen.
Remembered camera today, now I have to figure out the down load resize stuff. going to slot the mounting hole for the chain guide apx 1/8" so I can drop the height - not enough adj to get off tie trap on the chain I was playing with Still fc low height cutters about 1/2 or more gone. be awhile before i can get pics up but will get to it sometime today.
1 & 2 pic slotting the chain guide after slicing in 1/2. 3, parts assembled might be able to see locator/lock pin. 4 set up for first trial grind - old husky FC chain. this first grind is just a tad low when I look at the inside corner intersection. with ability to move the guide up/down from oem position I was able to stay off the tie straps. I have to see if i can get a angle reading on the top edge- might be too sharp/ thin to stand up in use. Ha ha the cell phone pics came through. thoughts on the grind if possible.
Pics of my back log of chains I do not know how many but over a 100 pounds these are the 204 link chains. There are more ( around 40 or so from 16"-36" loops- mixed between FC and SC) but for some reason those pics didn't work out the pics from my camera are too big and have to be resized, out of time today. I have some other wheels coming one in 1/8" and 2 in 3/16" just listed as for Silvey grinder no specs other than 8"dia with 1" arbor- might be Molemab items. Roughly a third less in cost than the other several types from Madison's , Blue wheel is what unit came with.
that beak doesnt do anything but make it less durable you want the corners lined up it will cut fast but not for very long with that beak
I forgot to put the LOL at the end... I like the way you grind chains and your knowledge. That's why I recommend your advice to others... At some point, when they get dull, I have 3 91 DL chains to send you. Got a 28" bar for XS362 I use occasionally.
yes, I noticed the little beak ( don't want that). Trying to get to that mitered corner. This particular loop is all over the place cutter wise as such it is good for this learning stage. Also found out about cutter climbing in/up on wheel. Now I definitely want to make the clamping guide vs trying to hold both sides of the chain and swing it into the wheel . the cutter that climbed was a bit longer than the picture so there was a bigger bite from the wheel. even just lightly bouncing it against wheel. The extra vertical adj in the guide from slotting the hole worked well then fine tune with arm adj. Beats trying to shim motor up or change wheel position on shaft( for tie strap clearance). didn't have any 1/8" steel strip around shop wide enough, picked up a piece of 3"x 1/8" steel this morning , need to cut it down to 2.5" width, put the 1-5/8 radius on one end. 3/16" thickness might be better, I forgot to mike that inside width. Distance from arm to edge of drive link slot is a bit critical for the plate that is next arm the out side plate can be anything 1/8"-1/4". a V groove on the inside face of both plates with a piece of small rod fixed in place on one side in groove will give a pivot point for the clamping and also negate the need for the alignment pin. the hour drive in lets me toss this kind of stuff around in my skull, course I have to put the ear plugs in to keep it in there
cutter lengths are not that important as is the raker to cutter heights are meaning you will find some shorter length cutters even on new chain and why i dont use the stops the cutter will climb up the wheel and that is normal if you try to lock it completely down then you may have problems the cutter will climb up some but just be patient and let it sit there a few extra seconds it will smooth out
Thanks Dall , I will take that under advisement. I try to just lightly bump into the wheel same as on the cut off style grinders, I do not just jam it. The adj. rail will allow for apx .040-.063+. Sunday/ Monday and most of next week (depending on weather, snow in forecasts) likely will be chain grind marathon. I do not drive into shop when the white stuff is flying around. The freeway turns into a black ice nightmare and the crosswind gusts will have you changing lanes in a blink. In the summer you sometimes have to pull over and just wait out the wind driven rain. Last fall a squall came through so heavy I was hydroplaning at 10 mph- hid under a bridge until it passed. Couldn't see anyway. 2016 Escape, brand new tires. Not that it is much better in the F250, 5500 # weight difference between the 2, but a lot more surface area for the wind to work on.
