Ok. Cool. This guy knows what he’s doing, so I’ll go with that then. Thanks for the input!! Anything you would change? I’d like to give him the best chains I can.
Felling and bucking. No milling, that I know of. I’ll ask to make sure, though. I know milling chains like a much more shallow top plate.
Hi all, so unpacked the grinder Sunday, start with stand -no lock pins or bolts to keep legs in place - easy fix. No stop nuts for swing arm travel stops- seems real strange to me, same on chain stop. Zero information set up, use, or parts page - would of figured at least a parts diagram. ( unit obtained through Madisons) Have one knob screw assm. apx 1.5" long fine thread no idea whats its for. ( sorry packed up camera this morning and promptly left it sitting on Kitchen table) So here is the major GLITCH - the chain guide marked .063/.050, 1. none of the chain drive links fit the slots - caliper says .063 slot is .052 and .050 slot .037 ( made of Derlin- problem if you machine plastic when hot it shrinks - annoying to say the least ) Both dressing units bolts cranked so tight felt like a bad set of gears when swinging dressers- easy fix again. Same for the chain stop -back off threaded knob would stay advanced- another easy fix. Chain guide well it just spins around- no idea of a starting point - don't remember if addressed in video, guess start at 90 deg. vertical, as I have to make one that actually accepts the drive links, I have a couple ideas in this area - basically a series of holes on 1/2 deg arc spacing with a small pin for fixed location/ stop combined with the slight arm adjustment( apx 5 deg) for fine tuning. That might be too coarse ? I have the tools to accomplish this, small machine shop. Must be where you all are using the angle gauge? Motor runs fine. Wheel ( blue) decently balanced and runs true. Looks like a 60 grit medium hardness just has Madison's sticker on it 1" arbor, 8" x 3/16" apx For me the led light is not intense enough, likely add a different lamp with a magnifier on it - old eyes. That's where I stand at present- a bit miffed of course due to the drive link fiasco - QC needs a bit of refinement, ya think? I am not being picky here just stating what I found out of the box. ( well maybe I am picky considering the $$). Guess I am just lucky eh? I did try to grind one cutter but due to the holder it was mostly a wasted effort as I have to force chain into slot and of course it won't side around so really could not fine adjust anything.
the bold highlighted bolt in question is for at mid point of the arm on the bottom side i dont use the bolts for chain stops but some do but yes id be calling madsens and telling them the problem with the missing bolts and the junk chain guide i have a scarr52 chain guide on mine nice machined unit he sells them for 50 bucks maybe more now ive had mine a few years but id be calling madsens for sure and make them make things right
Hi dall, I will have to look at the bottom side of the arm. the 5 deg up down is locked through the side. arm does not look like it slides fore and aft ( from memory- but that( memory) is questionable anyway. not missing anything I can tell just thought it odd there would be no lock wingnuts or something on the adj stops. Tried looking up that "scarr52 guide" but no luck, maybe no longer around? 3 cotter pins will take care of the stand issue. Madisons said that is normal to be very tight wears in. Worked some belt sander loops through both sides of the chain rail better now. Kind of like some of jeans the gals wear-no idea how they get them on or off.
the little bolt is to help with fine adjustment and the bolt on the side is to lock it in place the slide forward and back is the slot where the chain guide rides if i had a chain that doesnt fit in my scarr model one i have a worn out aluminum one i have used a old chain to open the plastic ones before ill see if scarr is on here
That makes sense on the underside position then, did not notice a tapped hole there. With 204 drive link loops it is kinda nice to be able to lock settings down so things do not drift from any vibrations and such. I might still make some guides from either tool steel or Stainless ( 404 series) just because I can harden them to where wear will be longer than my lifetime, task at hand is to learn the machine- get frustrated- parts diagram would have answered the screw question quick for me. Not having net access at home makes it a bit more difficult at times. Oh Oh, another pile of blades being sent in in these will be circular blades from 36" dia on down. Better get cracking. Still have to make an offset mount for a circular blade grinder at home not difficult but time consuming. Thanks for the info, likely would not have seen that for quite awhile.
i leave the rakers to them because i dont know what saws they are usually on i run mine between 25 and 30
chris I put these wing nuts on my swing arm travel limiters. That way I can lock them down, and not worry about them moving. I am, like you, new to these grinders and am not comfortable enough to not use them yet.
Sounds good. I usually run mine at the same heights as yours. Maybe even a touch lower. My .030 guide is what I use the most.
chris The other thing I did was take the bearing out and grease it up. It’s way smoother and swings effortlessly after that.
Stock grind on a new Oregon 72CL chain. Top plate angle is at approximately 22 degrees. The top plate is hard to measure correctly as they all have a curve to them. Some more than others. This one wasn’t bad. Grind I just did with both dressers at 19 degrees. Holder in the center. Top plate ended up at 28 degrees, which is probably a little too much.
it will cut good stock cl needs rakers lowered and when im grinding it i take alot out from under the cutter
