2008 Nissan Titan truck, nine months ago, the left wheel bearing (front) failed on a trip back from my brother's house 3 hours away, had to call a wrecker. Wrecker guy took the truck to my house and I bought a hub assembly at O'Reilly's. I recall it being pretty costly, like, $350? A friend and I installed it. Anyway, I have a roar going on and I think it is that bearing. I happened to get an oil change yesterday and the manager said she sees new bearings failing pretty regularly, worst case being one that was only a month old. Does this sound plausible? The original bearing lasted 11 years. I also had already replaced the right wheel bearing (front) about three years ago. I am hoping O'Reilly's has a warranty on this. Wondering how to handle this. I mean, assuming the noise I hear is the bearing, must I wait for it to fail? Or take it out now and take it to them or just what to do. Anyone with experience on this? I also hope I didn't drive 'too long' on it on that trip when it failed. I was on an interstate highway. I limped along until it sounded so bad, I pulled over and stopped and called a wrecker. When we put the new one on, everything seemed to be ok, looked sound, but now, I wonder. And now, what to install... are parts house parts like this no good, must I go to Nissan dealer? TIA.
When I bought mine at the dealership ('01 Silverado) he asked if I planned on keeping the truck. There were two different qualities and the better one that I bought was around a hundred dollars more if I recall. I've changed one side three times and the other side two so far. They lasted for several years though.
One would hope a new wheel bearing assembly doesn't go bad that fast. But I'd put it in the air and see how that tire sounds/feels when rotating. I don't shop @ O'Reilly's, but I'd think they would replace it without a fuss. Bigger question.. Is something else wrong in that corner?
Seems when I had one changed, I was offered two levels of replacement costs. Mechanic asked how long are you keeping the car? Then go with the better one. Glad I did because it went bad and was replaced at no cost. I put on way too may miles each year and thought this would change after I retired. Nope! Right around 3K a month since retirement and don't see it dropping any time soon! Point I'm trying to make is choose the parts with the guarantee.
If you have the receipt or if they've have a record of your purchase then most likely they will warranty the part and give you a new one at no charge. Typically they have a lifetime warranty but you'd have to verify with them on that. Actually the overal quality of wheel bearings is better then it used to be. Like anything though you can always be on the side of bad luck and had just gotten one that didn't hold up. I do believe though in the areas that put salt and or brine is contributing to bearing issues. Don't see that being a problem in your area. GM has never offered two different levels of hub/wheel bearings that I can recall. The dealer either offered you a GM part or it was a aftermarket one for less that the dealer probably made a higher gross on.
I do my own work when possible. When it comes to wheel bearings/hubs I use Timken and have had no issues. Moog is another good choice. Some of the cheaper hubs the cover on the back side can come loose and make noise even though the bearing is fine.
Most aftermarket replacement parts are crap these days. A lot of times it's better to go to the OEM for replacements. I think this happened with one of the oem hubs on my wifes Kia Sorento. It's been loud in front for a few years now......I cant hear it from my car though. Starting to grumble a little though, time to bite the bullet and fix it.
I don't get things like bearings, or much of anything else, from any of those discount chains. It's not impossible for a very premature failure but it's more likely it's something else. If the other bearing is three years old, maybe it's that one. Like Chaz said, put it up on a jack and see what they feel/sound like rotated by hand. Also grab the tire one hand top, the other bottom and push/pull to see if there is any play, which there shouldn't be. Had lots of issues with hub bearings on my Sierra and wife's Trailblazer, eventually read a report by an engineer that claimed that improper electrical bonding or rotted out/missing bonding straps was causing a static electrical build up in the isolated section and literally sucking the grease out of bearings. Don't know if it was correct but I find bonding straps rotted away all the time now. My GMC Sierra had original factory hub bearing failure within 60k miles (pitiful GM...). Dealer replaced them under warranty. Within 10k miles I'm hearing the same noise getting worse & worse. So I ordered a pair of SKF, made in Germany bearings & replaced them myself. Wasn't happy when it didn't solve the problem. Turned out to be the garbage Goodyear tires that had a reputation for singing an ever increasing tune way premature to service life.
Is it plausible for replacement parts to fail in under a year? Most of them are made in China or Mexico. There's your answer.
When the right, front went out, a local mechanic did it for me. He reported that he could NOT get the bearing off and had to take it to a reputable bearing supply house that I am familiar with (used to use them in my youth when bearings failed on tractors, trucks, equipment) and they got it off with a machine, maybe he said something about hydraulic puller, I forget. When I went to buy a bearing from O'Reilly's, I was told you don't just buy a bearing on this, you buy the hub assembly. I was used to buying just bearings from my farm days. Is it common to have to buy the entire hub assembly on a pickup truck? Wondering what I should do on this failure. Then again, O'Reilly's may not give me a refund, they might only replace it?
Far as I know they are all hub/bearing assemblies now. Have been for some time. Most cars too. If they were made where you could replace the grease as they aged there wouldn't be such a problem. If they weren't a product of planned obsolescence, made in China, would be even less of a problem. I would call O'Reilly's and let them know what's going on, see what they say and start trying to sort out if it is that bearing or not.
Yeah, Yawner , they are all hub/bearing assemblies now. Have been this way for a long time. Thinking back, the last car I had that had replaceable front wheel bearings without the hub, was my fox body mustangs. Those chassis were designed in the late 70's. Never had to do front wheel bearings on a solid front axle truck/ SUV though....
I called O'Reilly's about the hub assembly I bought last April and the guy said the procedure is to bring in the failed bearing and he will give me another one. They sell a 1-yr warranty one and also one with a 3-yr warranty. I don't recall them offering anything other than the 1-yr warranty version but maybe they did. Anyway, I bought the 1-yr warranty version and he said the warranty on the new one he gives me will only be honored through the anniversary date of the original purchase! What? Meaning it would have to fail by April this year to get another free replacement. I think he said it will be that way even if I pay the difference and get the 3-yr version this time. I wonder what their thinking is on this policy, must be a reason for it!
My guess is that it's like a new vehicle bumper to bumper warranty. If the hub/bearing was replaced while under the factory warranty at no charge it's warranty is only covered under the factory bumper to bumper warranty. So if it failed after the factory warranty expired you'd have to pay out of pocket to have it replaced. I hope that makes sense.
One thing that is often overlooked when doing diy auto stuff is torque specs. I find with the aftermarket bearings it’s important to torque the axle nut properly or the bearing may fail quicker. I also never buy the lowest price part, unless I don’t mind replacing it often.
I drove on a front hub bearing that was bad for months. Everytime I would turn one direction it would scream and rumble. No noise that I could hear when straight or turning the other way. When I got around to replacing it the cage was completely gone....but it was a plastic cage. Rebuilt the hub with Timkin bearings with steel cage. Alot of hubs are not easy to replace a bearing in. They come as a unit part, hub, bearings, wheel lugs, and sensors.... Usually 3 or 4 bolts and the hub is changes out. No it should not go bad in a year. How long did the factory one last? Same quality parts should last about the same time unless other drivetrain or steering components are bad. Can a part be made bad? Sure can and the warranty will cover how long the manufacturer stands behind the part. Longer warranty usually means they believe they make a better part. I thought the replacement part had a new warranty period....it's a new part unless it's a pro-rated warranty. Then it ages out with the original part. But a new part should have a new warranty in my opinion. My trucks factory alternator lasted 15 years. Replacement one lasted 3, and left me dead on the side of the interstate at 1am, 30 miles from the nearest part store. I had buy lifetime warranty parts, because I keep vehicles 10 to 20+ years. I got a free alternator but that was little comfort that night. My trucked died within a week of changing the alternator and battery died to no charge. I took the whole charge system apart, had everything tested and put back together. A fuse failed after the rebuild and the test circuit for the dumby light stays on saying no charge. I have good voltage and amps for 7 months now. There is a bad wire or fuse that drained the battery the last time. I don't feel like chasing a short in the wiring loom, so I drive with the idiot light on and a working charge system. A lot of people keep a car 3 to 6 years. Parts just have to last to the next owner or junkyard usually.
