NC30 to replace older 1003c earth stove ?

For the three years I’ve lived in our home, we’ve learned tons about heating with wood as a supplement and really enjoy the stove. Knowing it’s older, but possibly ahead of its time when manufactured, still in good shape, and functioning normal (as far as I know), wondering if it’s worth while to update/upgrade? I’ve always liked the NC30 for its budget friendly, yet attractive, and large capacity attributes. I’ll add some pictures below of my current setup for anyone that wants to chime in. Couple questions other than would the update be worth the cost? My other very important thing, is the earth stove has a oak installed and it pulls from below, directly under the stove. The outside kit comes into the wall behind the stove, and goes down and into a little “trough” under the pedestal. I do not want to tear out the hearth as it’s stamped concrete. Best I could do is cover it with black metal and tie into it. ?
Thoughts? And thanks for any ideas and suggestions.

this first pic is with the front air cover off the 1003c and looking down into the “trough” . I realize it probably doesn’t make much sense without more views, but I’m feeling lazy and the stoves hot. Below the door is a cover that can be opened to draw room air or tightened up to force it to use oak.




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What model and year? Should have a metal tag somewhere on it. Does it have secondary re-burn of the smoke?

 

Its an Earth Stove brand, 1003c model. It has a combustor(which wasn’t in place for the last 20 years) since last year, and does have a tube I guess. There’s a square tube, open to room air on each end, with holes into the firebox. The tube doesn’t seem to work like I see new ones working. Stove was made in Sept of ‘94. Here’s the specs right out of the original manual.



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Is the stove performing in a substandard way?
I'd say no stove would be less expensive than the 1 you already own. If however you're using too much wood, perhaps it would be in your interest to get a new stove to reduce your consumption- but in the end, if you just want a new stove then that's all the reason you need.

 

10hrs later, stt 300.

I realized I didn’t give enough info

Stove is basement install. We have nat gas forced air furnace so heating with wood is for enjoyment and $$ savings. House stat is set at 67 and furnace doesn’t run much if I burn 24/7. The furnace cold air return draws from directly over the stove, so in theory would move that hot air around since I run the furnace fan 24/7. With Nebraska weather, winter range from -10 at times to quite warm. When it’s cold, I feed the stove three times a day to keep it kicking out 600stt. Wood is getting better each year, and I’m close to 20% this year with ash, elm, hackberry, this year. Next year will be lots of ash, hackberry, and mulberry if it’s dry enough. I had some hedge last year and hope to find more.
Guess I just wonder if an NC30 would use less wood and or put out more heat or not. The book on this shows 37000 btus and the 30 shows 75000. Would I really see twice the heat?!? Seems like they are both similar in size, although the 30 is slightly larger.

I would like to use less wood, but would really be interested to see if I can truly heat this 1899 full two+story home with a basement install or not?


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Not really sure you will be gaining much unless you go to a BK or Woodstock modern Cat stove. Has your Catalyst been replaced lately? Curious how long it's been lasting. Any other durability concerns with the ES? 300STT at 10hrs ain't to shabby.
Take a peek at the Drolet HT 2000 or newer HT 3000 models as they have similar traits as the NC30. Quite a few happy campers with the Drolet's that can be researched easily.

 

I love my 30, but in your situation, I think I'd keep the one I got.

 

I bought a new cat last year but ran the bypass backwards best I can tell.... I brushed and vacuumed the cat off this fall and am now following the directions. Seems to help some. Previous a Owner said there was some deal in there at the top but it melted the first year... so at least I didn’t do that


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I'll agree that a 300 stt after 10 hours isn't shabby. I can't get that from the 30, even with a full load of Oak. Close, but not quite.
If you can swing it, go for a longer burning stove. Generally, that's a cat stove (or a hybrid).
If there isn't enough money for that, keep what you have and save until there is. You'll be happier in the long run.

 

10 hour burn time out of a catalytic stove is pretty good I think. I know some folks get longer burn times with more modern stoves- but at what cost?
I also hear from most folks that it’s pretty hard to hear from the basement.
I know you’ll get some good advice from people on here and they can suggest new stoves- I think the one you have looks pretty nice, sounds like it burns pretty well and looks to be doing you well.

 

Thanks everyone. I’ll keep learning this stove, work on better fuel, and probably put money into a heat pump instead of a newer stove. Sounds like I wouldnt gain much. Someday, maybe a AS will happen.


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I went looking for the firebox size as 50-70 pounds of wood really isn't all that helpful.
This manual specs page claims 51,000Max BTU output


Firebox is supposedly 3 cu ft. which if accurate is just 0.5 smaller than the NC30's 3.5 ( if that's accurate)
Not a whole lot of gain. (by the written specs)
You'd probably use a little more wood to get a little more heat.

Unless electricity is dirt cheap compared to NG in Nebraska ( I could go look it up) I wouldn't be replacing a furnace unless the current one is near end of life and/or not very efficient.

I don't know what the wood furnace market has for offers/prices these days nor if you have a wood supply to support it.

 

Guess below your post sorta answered the how big question. I’d say the 3cu ft is pretty accurate. Seems large. Outdoor temp overnight was about 20f so not real cold yet. It’s been as cold as 10 a few nights. After 10 hour burn that room was 75f, rest of basement 72, and main floor/2nd floor both 67. But 67 is when furnace kicks on so not sure it’s actually maintaining.
I do know that my heating season bills are quite a bit less than neighbors for comparable homes. But my house is bigger and I heat my shop to 50 with a space heater.


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If your house allows it and you’re handy, you have a nice situation for running two stoves. Keep the basement stove and search Craigslist for used stove setups (name brand stoves, chimney, sometimes even the hearth pad). It’s challenging to heat a house from the basement... I wouldn’t want to do it here (1200sq ft, located in NY).

Those older stoves aren’t as efficient as new stoves, but they throw heat.

 

Just re-reading this post and noticed that you mention the forced air furnace return is above the wood stove. This can be a potential safety issue to consider. As well as a code violation if its with in 10' of the stove (this dimension needs verification). The issue is that CO can leach/leak out of the wood stove and then be introduced into the rest of your home via forced air furnace. Consider this a issue especially when the wood stove is at the tail end of a burn cycle and the natural draft is weakening as the vent system cools. Basement stove installs are rather notorious for draft inversion issues as well. CO detectors placed strategically would be high on my list!

On another note. I am not trying to sound like the chimney cop here! Just thought it worth mentioning as a safety concern.

Sounds like your current setup is working reasonably well. As you mentioned maybe some fine tuning on the current stove/fuel supply and the 24/7 routine is worth a bit more effort. Do you have a blower on that stove? Running it on low will really circulate heat. In my experience. Best of luck.

 

Absolutely all relevant. I do have two CO detectors. One in the stove room and another on second floor. That situation has happened once. The furnace itself is 16’ away but cold air return lines are placed above the stove.
I’m a firm believer is smoke detectors and co detectors also. The only time I have any issue I s like you said, end of burn, actually it’s always been a day after the stove is cold but there are still embers/coals in the ash with a cold chimney. If I keep my chimney clean, it’s never happens. This stove has been burned like this since it was new, and the po said he never had any issue but admitted he didn’t have co detectors either.
Thanks



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Great to hear you are on top of this.