I tore my 154 down and put in new seals, rebuilt the carb, and replaced a number of other things. Put it back together and I get a "pop" on the first pull then the saw floods. So I took the carb off my good running 254 and the same thing happened. So then I swapped the coil and plug with the good working one from the 254 and still only getting a "pop" then flood city. I guess it is possible this thing is so flooded that it may take longer than a couple hours to dry up in the crankcase. I'm pretty sure I got the flywheel and key mated correctly and when rotating the crank, the magnet on the flywheel passes the coil at top dead center. Still wondering if it is a timing issue? The saw holds about 170 psi on my compression gauge. Any thoughts are appreciated, pulling my hair out on this one.
Flooding on the first yank? Or you get a pop and then flooding on subsequent pulls? Like Mike said, check the choke linkage, and manually clearing the crankcase will help too. I did a vid on that..... If the linkages are good, then I'd be curious what you have for compression readings.
I've got the air filter off and can visually see the choke opening and closing and the throttle engaging correctly. I get a pop that sounds like a misfire, then it floods on subsequent pulls. Compression is 165-170. Where's your vid on manually clearing the crankcase? Thanks guys
Are you sure the crank seals are sealing good had this problem with a little snowmobile this winter everthing checked good and would try then just drown out. Those seals were shot but it ran all day then the next day nothing new seals and it fired on the second pull.
I installed new seals......wish I wouldn't have traded off my mighty vac. I know, I know, need to pressure/vac test after this type of rebuild, but thought I could get away without doing it. If the seals weren't properly sealing, the saw wouldn't hold compression I don't think. Rookie, I'll pull the flywheel again.
It's possible it has a lot of fuel in the bottom end still. MM's video was a good one. IIRC, he just held the throttle wide open and pulled like a mad man. You can go one step further and pull the plug and do the same thing. But CWN877 has a good thought as well. Have you done a pressure or vac test?
I installed the new seals according to the shop manual and how I have done it in the past...... guess I need to find a press/vac tester
I took the ignition, plug and entire carb/intake system off the 254 you ran at the GTG. My last hope for a simple fix is it was so darn flooded that it needed to sit overnight
May not been anything you did could be faulty parts been down that road. Take a few steps back recite the kiss printable and recheck stuff. I feel your pain.
I suspect a carb problem rather than an air leak. Did you check the metering lever height when you rebuilt it? Is the choke linkage out of whack?
You can also pull the plug, turn it upside down and crank the engine to clear it good that way. Stand clear, because if it's really flooded, it could spew fuel right back at you.
Sometimes if it's not tight enough, a misfire can shear the key. Good on ya for going back in after it.