I’m not sure. Haven’t contacted the guy yet. Says in the add it’s like the 7900 so maybe he used that jug.
If OEM, then yes. We tried an AM big bore for a 6400 and it wore through the plating more than it should have after two years moderate work.
Not all aftermarket parts are the same. What kind was that BuckthornBonnie ? Even then, this can happen on a factory kit. I love my bone stock 6421. I want it to cut when faster though
I think I know which saw you’re thinking of. It’s the one on Facebook Marketplace here in CT, right? Grey hood and black HD filter cover? I’ve looked at that add as well. The price is ok, in my opinion, with a 24” bar and chain. Even better if he includes the old piston and cylinder, and the stock air filter and cover. The HD filter alone is $80, or so, so a nice upgrade there. I’m almost certain it’s an am big bore kit, since it’s got the decomp on the flywheel side. There are oem top ends still available in that configuration, if you know where to look, but then the price would likely have been higher. I’ve also never heard the 79cc oem or am top end described as a big bore, only the 84cc. The 84cc big bore runs about as good as an oem 79cc, but is less reliable. Some of the am cylinders are painted black, so if it’s black it’s definitely am. This isn’t always the case, though, but could be a quick way to distinguish am vs oem. That saw is also an ex rental from Home Depot. You can see the rental numbers scribed into the footpad on the tank, if you look closely. That doesn’t have to be a bad thing, though. Just look it over well, if you decide to go check it out. Check the av spring on the cylinder to see if it’s bent. It’s fairly common on the older ones. There’s an upgraded spring and cup available, if it is. Also, check the back of the muffler, if possible. The older galvanized mufflers are prone to crack around the flange for the muffler bolts. If the seller lets you check the piston by removing the muffler, you could kill two birds with one stone there. Last thing I’d check is if it leaks bar oil. The older black oil line often leaked a decent amount of bar oil when sitting. The newer version oil line, which is green, takes care of that and is easy to install. Some of this is probably going to be difficult to check out, as I’m sure the seller won’t want you to take everything apart. Lol I apologize for the rambling. I have a few of these sitting around here, in more or less every variety and color, and they’re my favorite saw. They’ve got good torque, are very smooth to run, and easy to work on. Consider that Home Depot sells their old rentals for $275-$325, and those can be hit and miss as well. Some are abused and some aren’t. Hope this was somewhat useful.
Most times that a smaller engine has a bigger bore p&c on it, it's called a big bore. It doesn't matter if it's bigger than the biggest factory version. Most gear heads will call any time you put on a bigger size top end, a big bore.
Very useful. Pleased to meet you Ridgerider. Another ct guy. Haven’t seen you on here yet. Always nice to see ct represented Ramblings good, it’s how I learn,,,,,,,,also how I speak LOL Yes that’s the saw. Had it saved on FB for awhile and forgot about it. Price dropped since first posted which got me thinking again. I havent searched the depths of hell yet but there seems to be little info on the web about these saws in stock configuration. Weight of cutterhead for example I haven’t found. Seen one described as 21 lbs on Amazon but that must include bar and chain and shipping box. New stock saw on Amazon asking $1400+ Either they are a collectors item or someone’s looking to get rich. All good info you stated. I wonder how does the clutch handle the extra power? I ask because some clutches seem weak to me on stock saws. Adding extra grunt would only exacerbate the problem I would think. I never see clutch’s discussed. In case you haven’t figured it out I’m no chainsaw mechanic of worldly proportions. Just a guy that’s intrigued by shiny or strange objects. Thanks for all the info. If I decide to go look at it that will,come in handy.
Makes perfect sense to me. That’s not saying much of course. I indulge in the depths of insanity just for the pure pleasure of it all
Speaking of bars and chains. That particular saw has a husky bar on it. I assume that’s a stock swap. I like that idea. Have a 28” for my 372 that saw should pull better. Right?
2013 “white box” from Weedeaterman. Agreed on the AM, but this one looked ok at first but had poor plating quality.
I’m well-versed in aftermarket. Got an 036 Hyway with high hours now. Got three farmertec 1127s still alive with low-moderate use. Meteor pistons? Well, too many to count these days. I tried this kit and wasnt happy with the longevity (saw had other issues, though)
Dolmar 6400 BB spun crank & other problems There was a thread on AS with a similar spun crank. Not bashing the model or brand, just another thing to be aware of when buying used.
Pleased to meet you as well. The clutch shouldn’t have any problems, since the saw was designed to be used with either a 64cc, 73cc or 79cc top end. The big bore 84cc runs about the same as a 79cc oem, so no problems there. All the parts are the same throughout all three ranges. The bottom end, carb, you name it, is pretty much all the same. As for finding info on the web, look up Makita DCS 6401, 6421, 7300, 7301, 7900, 7901, as well as Dolmar PS 6400, 7300, 7310, 7900 and 7910. The new Makita EA series, like EA7300 and EA7900 are also the same. All those are basically the same thing but with different top ends and colors. There should be a lot of info out there. There have been a few parts changes through the years, but they’re more or less all cross compatible.
