Ariens GT17 garden tractor repower

Like this??

 

This is closer to the original Ariens. Look at the craftsman keyswitch, it might just swap over. If you pull up the Kohler service manual I believe that it shows both the battery and magneto wiring diagrams. In your picture a 12vdc relay would wire to the ig terminal and N/C (de energized state) dry contacts would go between the ground and the magneto kill wire.

 

The engine swap is fighting us...

Uggg. I'm getting the magnum 18 ready to drop into my GT17, and it doesn't look like it will fit. It appears that the oil filter won't fit without clearancing the chassis. That's not horrible, fixable with the grinder but it's not a drop in like some have said.A the m18 starter hits the hydro lift arm for the front. So I think I have to swap starters from the kt17.

Ok pics.

The relay on the craftsman harness
The m18, and it's oil filter boss.



The GT17 chassis, this area in the front right might have to get clearanced with a cut off grinder. We'll measure before that happens though.

You can see the dents from it's trying to get the engine to fit.

 

I swapped the starters. See the terminal on the side of the m18 starter (on the right)? That hits the hydro arm for the front hydraulics.

The kt17 starter has the terminal on the end, so it shouldn't hit now. The m18 for the same in that area as the kt17.

 

Remote oil filter kit? Or s shorter filter?

 

The diameter of the filter is the issue. I'm hoping that now that I have the starter situation remedied, that it will drop in. If I have to notch the frame, no biggie. I just can't imagine that I'll need to.

Otherwise I could use the block off from the kt17 engine,c but then there's no oil filter, c which I think is a huge thing to have. I'm waiting on a guy to message me on the Facebook forum that had a red magnum 18 transplanted into his gt17 to reply before I hack away. Maybe I do just put the block off on to get the motor in to mock up to see if I have to cut. There is a remote oil filter kit for the kt17, but I shouldn't need that. I would think if I find a remote filter kit for a Civic or whatever car that takes the same oil filter, that might be easier.

 

Be nice to add a remote with a cooler. The kt's get way to hot in my opinion. Even without being in the airstream of a fan it would radiate a lot of heat.

 

Reading comments from the GT group on FB, 99% of the guys say to notch the frame. They've done it with no issues.

 

Could probably weld some reinforcement in easily enough (engine out) if it was a concern to you...

 

Also, the gt19 and gt20 had notched frames.

Right side...

Left side..


I'll cut the right side out to fit the filter.

 

Yes, I've got a MIG wire welder, but I really don't think it's necessary.

 

Ah yes, the famous "Maybe It's Good" welder.
you can cut half of the frame out of that 80's tractor and it's still going to be stronger than required.

 

Lol, I've never heard that one about MIG welders.
Actually this welder is one that I do trust. It's a Hobart, and while it's compact, I've built entire trailers, go carts, motorcycle trailering wheel chocks, and other stuff with it.

But yes, after working on that nearly new simplicity last weekend, and looking at the frame of that vs my ariens, it's like comparing a Tonka truck to an army tank.

 

Yeah I think the new ones are made out of recycled pop cans...

 

Progress...
The chunk we removed




With the engine in, on 3/8" spacers from the craftsman because we figured we would try it.




The hood fits still although the exhaust is raised a little and I'll need to either bend the exhaust outlet down or cut the hole bigger on the hood/grille.
The two pto belts would need to be longer than stock, but the ones I bought 2 years are a tad too long anyways. So they might fit perfectly.


The driveshaft should be ok with being raised up without the blocks on the engine. We didn't attempt to hook that up, but it should be ok.

Part of me says we should cut a tad more in the notch so no spacers are needed. That would make the exhaust modifications not needed, as well as eliminate any issues that could arise like the driveshaft

 

I thought about it overnight, and yeah, I'll remove more material from the frame so that the engine can go in without spacers. It won't take much more work.

 

Just a suggestion...rather than cutting into that lower corner, drill a 1/2-3/4" (as big as you can) hole there, then make your cut(s) over to the hole...if that makes sense. A nice round inside corner can prevent stress cracks from starting there in the future.

 

I get your drift brenndatomu .

So this is how ariens notched the factory gt19 and gt20 frames.


They cut into the gusset and fully hacked off a big part. And that still was apparently strong though per the ariens engineers. Mind you that Therese tractors had FEL's available, not just snowblower and blade attachments.

My buddy wants to pursue the riser block option. While it presents a small issue with the exhaust, that should be about to be dealt with.

 

I'm not sure what the drive line is made up from but I would start with that. Play with everything until the geometry of the drive is correct then work on spacers, cutouts ect. At 3600 rpm's very little error is required to induce a vibration that will cause the end of the world as we know it now.