Well I am done with firewood for the season. Finished Thursday, got the mess cleaned up yesterday. Just in time, golfing is in full swing and we play 18 holes every day and the 680 apple trees are now requiring attention. The first spray went on yesterday and the will need another by mid week. I didn't measure but only have about 20 cord this year, the snow got deep and it was cold. However snowmobiling was a blast. The last pic is what I call "board or plank split". Large pieces that are thin have a lot of surface area and it dries quicker than wedge shaped pieces.
Impressive as always, Bandit! I like those plank splits, especially with a slight angle to them. They are great on top of the stove load in my Ideal Steel with its sloped top plate. Looks like you stacked them with plenty of room for air flow (and chipmunk flow ) in mind. Nice!
Oh I will, just got back from golfing. The apple trees were sprayed Friday and will need another spray this week.
I’ve already got all my fruit trees pruned and started tilling the garden, however I’m hoping to score at least 2 more cord if standing dead oak.
Impressive! Next time someone calls me crazy for my 10 cords I keep stacked maybe I'll just refer them to these pics
Not in the rain, But just before as long as the trees will have a chance to dry completely. If I can get done and have an hour to dry the chemicals are rainfast. Will definitely have to after the rain finishes as that is when fungal outbreaks occur.
Oh, OK. I probably applied a logical progression there where I shouldn't have. That's what I've been told/read, as long as you have about an hour before it rains it won't get washed off. What fungicides do you use. The few I've tried for my peaches say not to spray them on foliage, which I take to mean early in the year, basically before blossoms break. I only have a dozen trees and if I had more success with pesticides/insecticides and identifying bug and disease problems I'd consider quite a few more as pine trees aren't worth much and don't help with taxes.
This is a very long and complicated topic. It depends on the time of year and temp. regarding which are more appropriate. Another thing to remember is you really shouldn't use an agent that has the same mode of action more than twice in a row to insure "resistance" does not occur. I try and steer casual growers to what are called "scab resistant" varieties that will fight Mother Nature for you rather than having to do it yourself with a spray program.
Mostly I (try to) go after codling moths as I have them and they get into the fruit. There's a few caterpillars that eat leaves but they seem to change year to year to some extent and I attack those as I see them if there are enough of them to bother with.
Not to be flippant but bugs are pretty easy to control. Fungal infections are much more of a problem and now actual up take and control of calcium to abate what is called bitter pit is what I am focusing on. Bitter pit is a very complex problem. You can grow a perfect blemish free apple but it will start to degrade a couple weeks into storage if it has bitter pit. https://fruitgrowersnews.com/article/reducing-risk-bitter-pit-honeycrisp-apples/
Looks like the great WOOD of China. Is winter coming or are u keeping the Zombies out? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
