I have a 6"-long T27 torx bit that I use with a rechargeable drill for working on Stihl saws, which is great because almost every fastener on Stihls use that size and type of driver. I'd like to procure a equivalent bit for working on Husqvarnas. My experience so far says that means I need a 4mm bit, but I haven't worked on any Huskies newer than the 359. Are they still built with the same sort of fasteners? The only source I've found for such a bit sells them in packs of 10 and ships direct from China, so I'm hoping they'll be useful on a lot of different models.
Yeah, that's an option but I'd rather have the purpose-made driver. I already have one metric set, and buying another would cost about as much as 10 driver bits anyhow.
If you find a cheap source? Can you post a link? They use 2 different sizes. But the 4 mm is the most popular. I believe 3 mm is the other one. To take off many of the mufflers, the muffler bolts are one size and the muffler bracket is a smaller size. (Either 4 mm and 5 mm or 4 mm and 3 mm). To lazy to go outside and look. Eating dinner, getting a strange look from the wife (I was just thinking really hard in which two it was, and she seen smoke coming from my ears )
I'm partial to a set of good t-handles. Less risk of stripped screws, cross threading and breaking cases by grabbing the wrong screw and over driving it
I've dealt with that by using very low torque settings on my little 9.6v rechargeable. The first source I found was through a sketchy-looking site, but then I found the exact same item sold through Amazon by a third-party seller for about the same price. I was only looking for 4mm drivers. The 100mm length is a little over $10 for 10 pieces, and the 150mm length is just under $15 for 10 pieces. I was thinking of buying a batch and putting the extras up in the classifieds here.
This is why I don't like using cordless drills as powered screwdrivers. Waaaaay too much power available, heavy, and just a bit awkward unless it's a very compact drill/driver unit. Many have made fun of my little Snap-On CTS561 but it is perfect for what it gets used for. Still have to be careful not to cross-thread, strip, or poke holes in crankcases with a too-long screw emb. I don't mind T-handles one bit, for machine thread screws. Once we get into the self-threading screws in plastic housings like the ones Stihl likes to use for handle bars or especially to hold backpack blower housings together, it's a different game. 12 of those bad boys per housing (at least!) and do half a dozen blowers a day,....... Don't forget you get to run them out AND back in. Still want to use a t-handle? I will say this about the bits, get the best quality ones you can find. They last far longer and do a lot less damage to the fastener. Cheap bits, even Torx bits, either fit poorly from the get-go or wear quickly causing a poor fit and when the bit doesn't fit like it should, the fastener head strips very easily.
I have a couple of Ryobi 1/4" impact guns I like to use. Light, great for dis-assembly & to snug things up. Then I hand "torque".
I have occasionally wished for a tool like my little Snap-On with an impact mechanism in it. That part would preferably be switched "off" however for re-assembly. I haven't shopped in a few years now but I know the little screwdrivers have come a little ways even since I bought my little guy.
