In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Fahrenheit Technologies Endurance 50F Information

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by BAN83, Jan 2, 2016.

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Who out there has a 50F or would like to get one?

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    75.9%
  2. No

    6.9%
  3. I Want One

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  1. NorthernCrew454

    NorthernCrew454

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    Do you guys have your furnaces on blocks to get it off the ground? If so, does the entire bottom need to be supported or just the edges?
     
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  2. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Happy Birthday NorthernCrew454 :cheers:
    I'm using adjustable 1/4" bolt fridge feet on the the four corners which is on top of a ceramic floor. I see others using 2 patio slabs which I think is long enough for the length of the furnace.
     
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  3. NorthernCrew454

    NorthernCrew454

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    Are there tapped holes on the bottom to accept the 1/4” feet from the factory or did you add this?


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  4. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    I added them, this way I could level the furnace! Yes, there's tapped treads:yes:
     
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  5. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Agreed. The relight plate has nothing to do with normal air flow (only when it is doing a Pot change).
    That furnace is made by SBI, and uses the same burn pot, combustion blower and exhaust blower (yes, a blower before the burn pot and one after), and control panel as my Enerzone Eurostar (Both are made by SBI). They self diagnose, fully adjustable, and self clean using a bottom feed pot like Harman, (but Harman uses a steep upgrade). So the Enerzone actually pushes the ash of the edge of the pot because it is almost level (slight rise).
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    I do. Much larger impeller and runs far better.


    We put some spring type tension locks on ours. Works really well, but I also have a gasket type material that ivanhoe posted. Or pretty similar

    (Also on full blocks).

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  6. Maximus

    Maximus

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    Yeah...I have an adjustable locking system (similar to Dex', but not spring loaded)...I think I got it at HD...I left the bottom stock latch and just used a better one up top...without a lot of heat escapes the outside door (NBD is in a room that is heated, but my unit is in the basement...)
     
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  7. NorthernCrew454

    NorthernCrew454

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    Looking for photos of your OAK connections at the back of the furnace, it looks like it’s 2.5” OD. Just looking for what others have done.


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  8. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Take that 3" vent and a Hose clamp and just get it tight
     
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  9. Maximus

    Maximus

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    I have a 3" elbow from HD that I notched to help it get pass the damper arm...it's not on tight, just on enough to allow the draw of the cold air vs. room air...seems to work fine for me and allows easy on/off to tweak the damper screw (mostly for when I change fuel types or make mods)...
     
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  10. NorthernCrew454

    NorthernCrew454

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    What material?


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  11. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    It's gotta be flame resistant like metal only.
     
  12. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Mine is flex 3" dryer vent material (most is 4", but this was labeled the same). I just pinched it on, put a hose clamp on and we have full movement of the air damper.
     
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  13. Maximus

    Maximus

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    Standard metal duct products...the air inlet is unfortunately close to the exhaust so using metal plumbing is prudent...
     
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  14. NorthernCrew454

    NorthernCrew454

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    It appears to be a bit tight here....

    Plan to get a 3" ID to 3"OD stainless adapter that will slide over the exhaust tube and allow me to push out the duravent adapter and T assembly to make some room for the OAK.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 14, 2019
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  15. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    There's a pic somewhere in these threads of mine. What I did is I cut a pop can in half in a 45* and rotated them to make a quick 90* elbow. I aluminum taped them together and then notched the air damper part so I could further insert the elbow tighter to the furnace and clamped it. Then I build up the other end with tape so the 2 1/2" went up to 3" for my air connection. This was only a prototype to be replaced with a thicker material of a aerosol can which I haven't got around to do it yet! Mine was also tight to work with :doh: That Duravent seems to be closer to the furnace than my Selkirk DT-M :whistle:
     
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  16. heyswitz

    heyswitz

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    little to far to drag it home lol
     
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  17. NorthernCrew454

    NorthernCrew454

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    Well hit a setback today during the install, found the chimney tile liner to have several cracks. Just got a new 4” stainless liner on order.


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  18. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    It is tight, but with the flex material we made it work and I have plenty of air flow.

    Our damper is 1/4 to 1/3 closed. We used to close it more, but after more tests we have higher temps with more air. All the way open and it diminishes slightly.

    But this all depends on your serial #, mods, and pellet vent size and structure.
     
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  19. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    I'm getting ready to re-install my epoxied Fasco with the big impeller with the new silicone gaskets. I will report back on the results, can't wait to have a quiet exhaust motor back :thumbs: Then I will fix the other :yes:
     
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  20. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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