Fahrenheit Technologies Endurance 50F Information

Hit 172 degrees constant temp last night...first time running 100% CleanFire DF (just got them last week not fully dried)...I used to be happy getting 131 degrees constant out of it...wife complained it got too hot last night in the bedroom (even though it was -8 outside last night 2,700sf home)...never thought I'd see those numbers...good pellets and simple mods...I think there is still more to be had however...The DFs required a bit more damper to run clean...but I have plenty to spare...

 

You're finally getting better output temps
A lot depends on the amount of duct openings, temp of input air, fuel of choice, the secret modes, etc...,
Would love to try some DF's, maybe one day

 

So i was having issues with my stove providing enough heat again, thus my questions of High Btu furnaces earlier,I was frustrated.I went thru and check everything..again It just wasn't burning correctly. I even gave Matt a call,He said something has to be going on with the air for it to burning in the manner I explained to him, I checked everything again... My wife said this question to me,What has changed on the stove? anything? I Then I thought..I bought a new top burn plate and installed it.That was my problem,Upon inspection,The new top burn plate has half the holes the old one has.I straighten the old one out, put it in the stove and It is now working flawlessly. I Feel like a moron but have to own it. Don't make the same mistake!! The new top plate has a date with my drill press this weekend.The Stove is back to 160-165 degree output in - degree weather keeping the house nice and warm @70-72 degrees. Also noticed My exhaust motor bearing is starting to go,any recommendations on exhaust motors? This one doesn't even has two full seasons on it .Thanks Fellas

 

I'm finding out the exhaust motor assembly is starting to loosen up with time, it's not the bearing. I'm going to spot weld the assembly whenever I get to it. If you put slight pushing pressure on the motor the noise goes away. Try it and report back.
Is it still the Fasco motor?
Strange the top plate is playing havoc on your overall output temps, it might do it when a pot change is going on!

 

Happy belated birthday Maximus

 

Not sure how the re-light plate would impact how the stove runs...guess it doesn't matter as long as you're happy with the results...

Exhaust bearing...did you try adding some light oil? You can add some without removal...just need to remove control board for access...might help...does with mine...

 

I know the noise your talking about,the crimps loosen up on the motor housing .Mine make the noise to matter what,I I shut it down to check the impeller for soot, when i spin it by hand it makes the noise.I still have the stock Fasco. It was like the plate is affecting the way the air was flowing in the burn chamber.It was causing the flames to travel up the back wall,and into the auger chute,Now it going straight up,after it going all night ,The inside of the burn chamber is white and looks like it is still burning perfectly.

 

Ill try the oil! Thank you.It must draw air down or cause a draft for the middle of the pusher to make the fire even across the pot.With the other plate I noticed the pellet only burning on the sides,Like the middle wasn't getting any air...

 

Ok...I'll share a "secret mod"...I mentioned I'm building a gravity fed pellet rocket stove...so I did quite a bit of investigating to get the "most" out of it (It's on the small side as I didn't want a massively hot obstruction in the family room). Being a geek and a welder...I know a thing or two about metals and their ability to transfer heat. Believe it or not, stainless steel is not an efficient transferor of heat...and guess what the exchange tubes in our 50Fs are made of?!?!? Copper, on the other hand, is one of the most efficient transferors of heat. There's a very good reason why it's found in very high-end cookware. It is 200x more efficient at transferring heat then steel...it's melting point is only slightly less and it's highly resistant to corrosion. But...it's considerably more expensive and not as easy to bond to steel. So...the "mod"...since our 18 exchange tubes are welded in SS...I decided to line the inside with copper tubing...The inside diameter is approx. 1"...I bought 1" copper tube from HD...cut to length (11") and then cut lengthwise about 1/4" strip removed (I have electric metal shears so the job was pretty fast)...now each piece, when collapsed, snuggly fit into the SS tube...a little love from a rubber mallet and they seated just fine. Been running this mod for 2 months...the copper will discolor...that's normal...I got about 10% more with this mod...going to add more copper sheet to the top/sides for next season

BTW, my rocket stove will have a solid 1/8" copper top...had to braze a steel ring to it (gasket mount)...I have a 215 amp welder...it can weld 5/8" steel no problem...it took everything that welder had to braze that ring...that's how efficient the copper was at transferring the heat from the welder...when ya see it ya believe it!

 

The holes in the re-light plate only serve a "re-light" function during a pot change...the air is drawn into the pot frame directly...from there 1/2 is directed under the burn pot and the other 1/2 to the door (silly design which I changed)...maybe you had excess ash under the pot and it was blown aside during the ignition sequence...no matter...if it's running good now then all is good!

 

So you installed copper sleeves inside the exchange tubes and having SS on the outside doesn't affect the heat transfer whatsoever? And the next mod would be sheets of copper around the fire chamber is what I understand.

 

Correct...the Copper is pretty thin so it draws the heat very quickly from the surrounding steel it is touching and is more efficient at releasing that heat into the cooler air rushing past...think heat sink on a computer chip with a fan...cheap ones use aluminum...expensive ones use copper...

Now...all the air doesn't pass through the tubes...it also passes up the sides and over the top...I'd effectively be placing heat sinks on those areas as well...and, there is far more surface area up the sides and over the top vs the exchange tubes...

 

ok thx I,ll check them out!

 

Yes Sir!! Running Gooood!

 

I just looked up the Caddy Alterna II .Wow,I read the installation/maintenance manual That is one awesome unit, I wish i would have known of it before purchasing the Fahrenheit .

 

another choice to consider
Wood Pellet Heating
Multi-fuel units are the way to go, options on market prices increases

 

When I got my used 50F the exhaust extension tube was off the unit. Are screws used here or is it high temp RTV and push it all the way on? I dont see any holes in the "silver" part it would mate with.

EDIT: I found a video from Fahrenheit that shows two screws for sure, but I don't have holes in those locations?

 

There's screws there with caulking.