Stove U P S babble

Harman s have the shutdown feature built into the board,but,even those might restart upon power coming back on,I do not know.I do remember seeing a posting where someone added a timer relay,to do what you want.Will keep in back of mind,when searching for stuff.

 

Looks like this was just posted a few days ago..

Battery Backup For Pellet Stoves - 3 Ways To Keep The Heat On

I was going to suggest getting a 5 amp battery charger, attach it to your batteries which you can connect in parallel and attach a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter to power the stove. Your manual says the maximum draw is 504 watts. So in theory, the system would work similar to the electrical system in your car... as long as you are charging, you won’t deplete the batteries... when you lose power, you’ll end up on pure battery power until the power is restored or the battery is depleted... could probably come up with a setup for a couple hundred bucks...

 

With those three batteries hooked up in parallel and a 1000 watt inverter, you should be able to get at least half a day of operations running the stove and maybe more. That’ll help you out if there is an outage while you are away from home as long as you’re coming back the same day. I have a kill-a-watt that you just plug the appliance into to find out how much it draws... you could monitor a cycle from startup to shutdown and see what the average draw is then do some math... you could also test it out while you are home and see just how long one of the batteries lasts... might take a while though... better get some

A quick look at this website shows how to do some calculations... looking at a site that sells deep cycle marine batteries, a group 31 battery has a capacity of 100 amp hours when discharged over 20 hours... so that’s about 5 amps per hour for 20 hours. Your stove, at the maximum, draws 4.2 amps... so one new group 31 battery should last you over 20 hours... you will of course have to subtract some efficiency to convert DC to AC power, but it shouldn’t be too much...

Let us know what you decide to do..

 

Jay...you can also just use a 12 or 24 volt relay and use a small power supply to it...like one for a modem or (wireless) router.

 

We get a solid hour+ of run time out of the Cyberpower 1500 PFC ups unit here JT. Glitches, short outages. etc. are not even a concern - stove doesn't skip a beat. Shutdown cycle here is about 20 mins., ups handles it fine, uses about 25% battery capacity to do, no burn pot agitator though.

 

I image your system, on average, doesn’t draw a lot more than a hundred watts or so then. According to their website, if you had a constant draw of 450 watts, you’d be out of power in 11 minutes.

1500 VA UPS Products | CyberPower

The graph shows 75 minutes of run time at 100 watts.

Runtime Calculator | Power Runtime Calculating Tool

 

I second this avenue if not longer than a few minutes otherwise you need a longer resource and that's when you start to

 

The mentioned UPS is to keep going like the and not miss a beat, no shut down required

 

Jay...you might want to hold out until president's day with the UPS......If memory serves , I think they put those on sale at that time at nearly half off.

 

Eh, "ganging" an Inverter in front of a UPS (regardless of brand), unless the Inverter is a true clean sine-wave unit ($$$) may not work as intended - when I tried this w/ the APC Smart UPS 1350 here back in '15 - it was problematic, at best. The APC unit -did not like- the inverter feed, at all.

* To be fair, most (older) APC units do not like anything other than utility-grade "clean" power as input, in any case. Our generator here is close enough that it doesn't complain on "low sensitivity" setting, after I tweaked the genny governor to output less than < 61.2 Hz, at 1/2 (2,750w) load.

re: "roll your own big-azz batteries" on the UPS ( vs. stock ) - unless you have a (separate) charge controller setup, you'll burn up the internal controller circuitry quickly - at least on the modern units, AFAIK.

To the best of my knowledge, on anything 1,000 watts -> above, (2) Amp Hr. higher vs. installed spec. is the max. you can to go w/ over-sizing batteries on the "consumer" grade units. *That's really the most one can go anyway: the physical dimensions of the battery packs change beyond that / they won't fit.

An older "Data Center" grade UPS would give you a lot more options to "customize" - the newer UPS units are "down-sized" in circuitry close to the stated spec. - to save weight and install space, to the best of my knowledge.

Hope this helps JT.

 

I scored both Cyberpower 1,500 APC PFC units here on those sales, for $120 / each on ...zon Prime, and very grateful to the FHC folks who posted that sale info. up.

 

That's very true.

Cold start: auger only - 78 -> 140 watts,
Cold start: auger, and igniter: 280 watts -> peaks around 420 watts on auger feed,
Proof of flame (combustion blower & auger motor) / igniter off: 38 -> 140 watts,
--
Running (combustion,convection, auger motor): 27 -> to 140 watts, on auger feed.

The drop-tube auger feed motor pulls peak about 1/3 way through the auger cycle / as it loads up.

Shutdown: 35 - 40 watts constant, combustion & convection blowers only.

Source: Wattage meter display on the Cyberpower UPS unit. ** All values approxmate. Your mileage may vary. Always wear your seat belt.