My 576xp just quit. Looking for guidance

You should be able to see it. All wiring intact?

 

Looks like the wiring is good. Keep in mind this was not an instant failure. It took a few minutes to get to non-running state.

 

Was the plug grounded while you were checking for spark?

 

Sometimes if i can't see the spark I'll make it so I can feel the spark, (use my fingers)
Zaps a little, but then you know

 

I'm not a fan of champion plugs. I've had more issues with that brand than any other brand combined.

 

Champion plugs have never treated me well either. When I was in high school I had a Suzuki RM 400 and that thing would foul a champion plugs no matter what jetting I put in it. This was mid 80's so I learned quick NGK was much better.

 

Not to sound like a tool snob, but an adjustable gap clip on spark tester is really handy & cheap. No guesswork on ground or getting poked. Any parts store should have one for less than $ 10.00.

 

I did not have the plug grounded. It isn't truly grounded in the saw though?? Bought new NGK plugs which I prefer and were in the saw from Husky. No good. Not even an attempt to fire. I took the plug out and pulled the saw about 10 times because I am doubting the existence of fuel in the cylinder. I could not smell fuel at all. The plug as not wet when removed. Going to get to the fuel filter next to check for flow there.

 

The plug has to be touching the cylinder head or use an alligator clip from plug base to a cooling fin- without that connection no spark.

This sounds more like a carb fouling and not from anything in the filter. If it was blocked could have been running lean so pull muffler and check compression as well

 

The plug needs to be in to pull fuel. The diaphragm pump needs the impulse from the pistons movement. You could alway pour a small amount of mix down the carb and with plug in, give it a few yanks and see if it'll fire.

You're simptoms of no spark lean towards a faulty coil or coil gap or wiring IMO. Are both coil bolts tight?

 

I pulled the spark plug and let it ground to the cylinder as I looked for spark. No spark visible until I pulled with speed. Then I could see it. I am getting fuel into the cylinder evidenced by a glistening piston. The fuel filter was perfect, no discoloration and breathes easily. Been trying to find vids on the 576 for help but have come up empty handed. Would the coil bolts be behind the clutch?

 

BINGO! After spending 9 years total as a tech in a Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki, BMW dealership I can't even begin to guess how many times "no starts" and "runs poorly" was cured by simply chucking the Champion plugs in the trash can and installing NGK. Hundreds of times...maybe thousands...I would guess it happened once a day on average, between all the techs together.

 

Spark outside of the cylinder doesn't guarantee 100% that it will spark when in the cylinder...seen that before too...for the $2-3 it costs for a new plug, swap it out just to check that box off the list.
Have you checked compression?
An engine needs 3 things to run...compression, air/fuel, and spark (and to some degree, timing too...make sure that flywheel didn't come loose and partially shear the key off...probably not likely, but needs checked)

 

I was always running ngk plugs on everything that wasn't a car/ truck engine. I even swapped the stock champion plugs that were in my last new sled with ngk, when it was barely broken in.

I've been using denso, especially the iridium ones with the same results as the ngk plugs the last number of years.

 

A teaspoon of mix directly down plug hole ought to pop. This will rule out fuel.

No spark inside cylinder is hard to figure out, go there last.

I'll say it again, check compression & pull muffler and inspect. Unless it's sheared a key and time is messed up...

 

Yes, they cause the most trouble in 2 strokes I'd say...but I won't run 'em in cars/trucks either...if they are there when I buy it, fine, but come tune up time, or there is any trouble, they gone!
I had a friend that built a high compression 350 for his Monte Carlo...kept blowing plugs out (porcelain blew out of plug base) repeatedly...he switched to Autolite, (IIRC) end of problem.

 

Coil is held a precise distance to the flywheel, behind the recoil/starter cover. Make sure it’s not loose and make sure the flywheel isn’t loose or have any play/movement.

I agree w cnice. Pull muffler, inspect piston and get a compression reading if possible.

 

I did put a new NGK plug in already. As far as compression, it is very hard to to pull with the decomp off. It was running strong until the idle started to die off.

 

Drizzle a bit of gas into the throat of the carb (with the air filter out) it should at least try to start, or maybe start and then quit after doing that...if it does its probably a carb issue

 

Took ohm readings on the coil. 1.56k between plug boot and core and 1.64k between plug boot and cutout terminal and 83 (NOT K) between core and terminal. Shot starter fluid into the carb. Nothing.