My 576xp just quit. Looking for guidance

Ran it for a good 90 minutes after not using if for the last month. Finishing the 4th tank of fuel when I notice the idle is getting low. Have to rev it to keep her running. I filled up with fuel and cleaned the air filter. It burped once and now will not fire at all. Plug looked ok, dark and dry. Could not verify spark out in the sunlight, but I will check it later. Thinking coil?? I would think a plugged needle would still fight to run. Saw is about 6 years old with pretty low hours. Only cut what I burn personally and have a smaller saw for the bulk of my work. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

 

Start with carb cleaning and fresh mix and report back


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I like new plugs to start and a new/clean air filter.

 

I'd agree with the fresh mix recommendation. If it doesn't have many hours on it as you say, it may just need the carb cleaned and possibly a kit. I've seen eth wreck havoc. One small piece is all it takes. OCD would make me pull the muffler and make sure the piston didn't start melting.

 

I'd start by checking compression then pulling muffler. If that checks out, carb

 

What do you mean it burped?
You filled it with fuel, so you opened the tank and it still wouldn’t start. Doesn’t sound like a tank vent then.
Did you try starting it with the throttle wide open and the choke off? If not, try that.
Or you might try adjusting the idle. Measure the turns to close the jet first.
But with the low hours, I think the idle adjustment, if it worked, means it really needs a carb clean.

 

Is that an auto tune?

 

I've had 3 plug failures on 2 saws and a Gen/welder in the last 2 years . Don't know if it's dumb luck or poor QC on plugs.
Never had issues before. I'd likely start with plug

 

I recently had 2 plugs fail in a snowmobile. The electrodes came loose and moved leaving no gap for spark when inserted into the head/cylinder. Had me baffled because when I pulled them out, and turned them up the look at them the electrode slid back into place and looked like it just had a big gap.

 

Had same thing while back on a car i was working on, can get a bit frustrating for sure! Think it was a champion

 

When I mentioned it burped, I was referring to an attempt to run with an ignition. When it started to act up it would run fine when revved up. I don't think plug failure because I don't see that causing an issue with maintaining idle. Going to start with a carb clean today. Will keep progress posted.

 

Not the same saw so probably not the same problem, but I have a 394xp I use for milling and it has exhibited the classic 394 issue a couple times that sometimes when it gets hot it idles poorly and becomes hard to restart. Change the spark plug and it goes back to running normal. A guy on another forum mentioned this and he seems to be right. Note that Husqvarna changed the shape of the combustion chamber between the 394 and 395. Seems the 394 causes the insulator to crack prematurely in the plug and as it heats the crack opens. It runs at wide open throttle fine but idles terribly. When the saw cools it idles fine again till it is heated up. I carry an extra plug in my milling bucket now.

 

By what you describe, I'm thinking fuel. If it was spark, the plug should be wet, not dry.

As others said, the carb, but don't forget to throw a new tank filter in it. They can cause a lot of issues. Good luck.

 

My cutting was on a monster White Oak when this happened. Close operations to milling as it took a tank of fuel for every 3 rounds. Before I clean it I will try and fire it. Thanks

 

I was thinking about another thread on another forum regarding the 5-series and heat issues. These series of saws have the transfer ports on the exhaust out of the cylinder. After running the saw really hard, it probably was heat soaked and wouldn't start because of the heat.

 

Had an issue on my welder . Would not run under load.
I cleaned sediment bowl, ran seafoam, and then after some advice here changed plug before a rebuild . BINGO.
I thought it was a fuel issue also. Not the case.
I think plugs are getting made cheaper now a days.

 

Summer of 17 my 372 xtorque started running poorly and then not at all. Turned out to be the coil. I bought this saw in 12, so I guess probly kind of a premature failure.

 

I've had some similar issues (I mill lots w/ my 394). Mine ended up being a coil that went south. If you ever need one, stay away from the chinese crap. I bought one to see if that was my issue. It was, then the part only lasted a few short months before it went. OEM has been fine since. And I've had great success with the Denso plugs. I have yet to foul one or have one go bad. W22MPR-U

 

No start or ignition at all when I tried to kick it over cold. Took the plug out and shut the lights off to try and see spark. No luck. No sure I would be able to see spark in those conditions?? Ordered plugs and will clean the carb before the next attempt.