PROS: - Huge fire box can hold a lot of wood and consequently burn for a long time. - Huge ash tray that I usually get at minimum a week, maybe two, before emptying even at full time use. - Huge window to see what's happening. CONS: - That huge window? The grate that comes with it hardly stops a log from falling into it, but when you drop 15+ logs in a day, you're bound to hit it. After it cracked once ($150 to replace) I custom built a more substantial grate that runs the length top to bottom. - That huge firebox? It should hold 21” logs, but it is so narrowly cut at the top opening that you can only get the bottom two logs of that length. Too bad I took the log length seriously and cut my own wood 20” ahead of time for the first two seasons. Really only likes 18” if you plan to fill it to the top. - The bricks are fragile, for, you know, bricks. Nearly every brick in there has cracked. I replaced some of the cheaper basic ones ($20 each), but refused to cough up $200+ to replace the more custom bricks towards the back. I've used high temp cement glue and done a respectable job, but not without major time and effort. - The fire dome... did they tell you when you bought it that it'd have to be replaced every 4-5 years for around $450 each? And if you actually give the back a clean out each year, you'll need new $30 gaskets each time. - As a downdraft stove with only a 6” chimney, it understates its need for extra chimney height to achieve draft. I had to add an extra 4” stainless steel pipe ($200) on top to get to 18' – only then did I have a chance at the “afterburn” cycle staying lit through the night. - This is related to an overall finicky “afterburn” mode that often takes up to an hour to monitor as it gets hot, build up coals, put in afterburn, and choke down. And then it goes out and you do it again. It is supposed to burn with no visible smoke, but this is inconsistent at best. - To do some of the maintenance, you must remove the side panels. They are attached with around 1/8” hooks that are only a few millimeters thick. My grip slipped once and it pivoted, snapping off the attached hook. It took some fancy fine design to custom make a replacement hook and screw it on. - The flu dampener, which pivots back and forth to allow smoke to the chimney directly or force it through the downdraft, needs regular adjustments once or twice mid-season, as it eventually starts to fall back or stick forward. Get ready to let the fire burn out completely and dismantle your chimney. - The flu closing mechanism is a poor design. I have had the gears “slip” many times, for various reasons: (a) the nut on a gear comes loose, (b) the allen bolt on the shaft comes loose, (c) the shaft itself slides has play and the gears come loose. Of all the issues, this is the most serious, as if it had happened to my wife, she'd be left with a hot stove she couldn't shut down – once it was even stuck with the top open. - If you can't read between the lines, this stove requires a lot of (a) time to operate and maintain it, (b) cash to replace parts and (c) patience with the downtime to do all that. And, yes, I watch the stove temp. I have a thermometer on the top, the pipe, and an infrared gun. And my wood is dry - I personally cut, split and season - minimum 3 years drying split. I am good with directions and, if the issues are user-error, well, then it takes an expert to run. I read my manuals and stick to them - so - I'm at least an average user in terms of competence, and the average user shouldn't deal with this. A.k.a. this stove is the worst. I hoped to get 25 years out of it, but I might just call it a 6, eat the $2400 I paid, and get a more reliable stove. I'll probably save money buying a new stove over the cost to keep this thing running for 20 more years. Harman, feel free to contact me with a refund.
I'm sorry you have this experience. I have met and done business with Dane Harman and he makes outstanding products......but there are exceptions. the central pellet heaters had burn pots that would warp despite countless fixes, the PC 45 hasn't been a raving success and the TL series hasn't been awe-inspiring either. The P68, P61, P43 Accentra and Advance have been well-received by customers. I looked at the TL300 but got turned off by the whole downdraft ceramic burn box thingamajig whateverthehecktheywantotcallit. People on this site manage to Englander NC30 stoves at discount prices and they seem satisfied. A Woodstock Ideal Steel is not cheap but my second iteration has proven to be a reliable stove. Good luck with your next purchase.
