Pellet heads!! What's up today?

Any secrets to getting the rear bolt out of the distribution blower for the P43? I can't get that sucker to turn and there is almost zero room where it is at. can get the outside bolt out no problem.

 

Nice looking tires....that should get it done in the white chit.

 

Just remember JT ... they're only rated up to 118 MPH.

 

Is that setup different from the P61? I think I just used a rachet with an extension and didn't have any problems at all. Whole process only took 10 minutes.

 

Seriously, I think they superglued it in there. I spent over an hour trying different things (including a long handled screwdriver), and didn't budge it at all. I googled it and everyone says how easy it is - and I feel so much like a girl not being able to get it to move.

 

B, if you removed the other fasteners holding the fan on, try reinstalling them to snug only, to get the weight of the fan / pressure off that stubborn fastener. Hit it up w/ some PB Blaster also - if it's close to the stove back .. it may be 'baked' on there.. Or cross-threaded.. take a look at the threads on that fastener.

Or it might be me that's 'baked' for suggesting above, Dunno.

Have a Fun day all!

 

I found these instructions on Zon.You may have already read them but here they are.


1. Unplug the unit. Let it cool down. I waited about an hour.
2. Remove both side panels. Use socket wrench or screwdriver.
3. Remove the distribution blower. There are two screws holding the blower on the stove. There is one screw you loosen, and one you remove. The socket wrench with an extension is a must here because I don't know how else you can get to that screw you have to loosen. It does have a flat-head screw slot there, so a very long screwdriver could do it as well.
4. Now the blower is disconnected. Now look for the three wires from the old blower connected to three wires on the stove. They are connected by an insulated wire connector. Cut off the two factory installed zip ties so that the wires are loose and visible.
5. I diagrammed what color wire was connected to what and then disconnected the three wires. You could even put tape on each of the stove wire ends and write what color connects to it.
6. I cut the three wires off the old blower and brought to hardware store to find replacements. You are buying 1 male and 2 females. I couldn't find the exact insulated cover shape that's on the original blower, but I bought the same gauge, and alas, they fit.
7. When I got home, I connected my new insulated connectors to the other half on the stove - just to make sure they fit. Like I said, they did. Now all I have to do is put these new connectors on the new distribution blower wires. You will have written this down, but green gets the male connector, and the other two wires get the female. You will want to cut down the copper so it just fits in the neck of the connector. Then crimp.
8. Interesting recommended thing to do: If you compare the old blower to the new, Harman has cut into the metal on the middle hole where the screw goes (on the open fan side). That way it just slides in to the screw that's still attached to your stove. If you don't want to hacksaw this, then you'll need to remove that second screw and figure out how to screw it back in when you put the blower back on. I hacksawed it... done in 5 minutes. Seems like much less work to just do what they did rather than try to get that screw out and back in.
9. Time to reinstall. Reconnect the three wires as per your diagram. Slide the blower on to the screw still on the stove. Put the other screw back in and tighten. Tighten the other screw.
10. Plug back in and test. The blower should come on after there is a fire in the stove. Once that comes on, shut it down again and unplug. It worked!
11. Now ziptie the wires back the way you found them. Put the rear panels back on. Done

 

hey, I know many "girls" who do better than guys at this!
You will need to remove both bolts. One is easy....the other...the one next to the exhaust outlet, is tougher....a socket and extension is the easiest way....Ive never had one seized, never even used lube on one. The real trick is putting the new one back on!

 

I finally got it loosened - I had to buy another extension because the two extensions were not allowing the torque I need. Big help that was. The new fan is on and now it sits there and runs, but the rest of the stove doesn't. Dayton fan has chit in the way for putting the clear bolt back in, so even worse design. I actually had an easier time getting the almost impossible to get to bolt back in than that one in.

I'm currently sitting here with a big paperweight where nothing actually works except lights. I am so disgusted by the hours I have put into this only to fail to do something properly (or maybe I should have gotten the OEM replacement instead of going cheaper) IDK - just a big fail so will be ordering propane and going thru that at a good clip to keep the bathroom and bedrooms warmish.

Work sucks too.

I'm still better off than a lot of people, so shouldn't complain.

 

Stove will not light?

 

It never runs anything. I get a slight hum when I plug it in - and it stays humming. Light go on solid, but no blowers, no auger, no nothing. Test mode does same thing. And yes, I've taken it off thermostat (and tried with thermostat). It is the fact that it hums even when the control knob is at the off position that tells me that something is not playing nicely. Shouldn't be doing that.

 

Unplug.Try to spin combustion and convection blowers by hand

 

The stove won't run or you aren't able to get the blower completely on? I assume the 43 is designed the same as the 61. On mine all the wires in the back were wire tied together so I had to cut the tie to plug in the new blower. If your was like this, any chance you unplugged something?

 

Not trying to be a smart azz B but all doors and hopper lid closed?

 

The stove does not run at all. Lights come on, that is it (not sure how many ways I can say that - LOL)

I didn't unplug anything - I cut the wires and used wiresplices.

 

All doors are closed. Even if a door was open, the blowers would go on in test mode