Deleting from wood stoves and reposting in pellets. "Ooops" Posted to Englander support, but figured I'd post here as well to see if I can get this started for the season. Also, so Englander knows this is the same question. --- First startup of the season, was working fine last year (new install). The auger is not running. I checked forward from the control board and backward from the auger. The vacuum switch is not activating. I went into diagnostic mode and combustion blower, convection blower, and igniter all work. The auger works if I bypass the vacuum switch. If I provide manual suction, the switch activates. I also checked the vacuum pipe into the firebox for obstruction and it's clear. I've also checked for ash buildup//clogs and everything looks OK. The combustion blower starts on startup, but the convection blower doesn't. Where should I go next for troubleshooting? Thanks,
Unplug the vacuum line from the (opposite) end of the switch / where it attaches to the stove, and run some fine wire through the port, like a paper clip, to make sure the port (on the stove-side) isn't blocked. re: convection blower not running @ startup - I believe that's normal: stoves here will not start the (room air) convection blower until the stove goes through startup -> ignition -> and reaches operating temp.
If the vacuum port is clear, the vacuum line is clear, and the vacuum switch appears to be working - next step is to check the outside air pipe, stove, and exhaust venting for blockage. Did you do a full year-end cleaning of the stove, and exhaust venting, at end of last season? Did you seal up the OAK, or Exhaust, and forget to unseal before start of season? * These are things I would check & verify (clear OAK, clean stove / and combustion impeller, clear exhaust venting), before considering running with a (bypassed) vacuum switch, if here.
Update Rojhan ? You said a "new install"last year, in the 1st post.....was the stove new also? (still under warranty?) If all the vacuum line & port is clear, and stove exhaust system is clean, possibly the vacuum switch is bad? A call to Englander Cust. serv. is in order to get a replacement sent before the real cold sets in.
I know this is of absolutely no help but.... Diagnostic mode on a wood stove: can I get within 5 feet of the stove? Auger: grumpy wife injecting sticks into fire Sticks: unprocessed pellets Vacuum pipe: my pie hole sucking down brews Convection blower: wife's mouth...
Thanks for the information and suggestions, all. I had cleaned everything other than the exhaust/tee at end of season. The installers left very little clearance/slack in the OAK going up the chimney so I couldn't get to the cleanout. I've spent ~6 hours fighting to get the stove in a position to work on it with out 4 of those hours trying to get to the cleanout. I finally got to the cleanout and there was.... significant... blockage. Probably about 4" of very clumpy debris and another 3" or so of very fine powder. As far as I can look up the exhaust with an inspection scope it looks clear. Same for the intake. Same behavior, though. No vacuum switch activation or auger unless I apply manual vacuum (aka using the vacuum hose like a straw). When the switch activates the auger does run. The switch also doesn't activate while the cleanout is open. There is definitely air coming from the combustion fan. I have also checked that the vacuum port/pipe into the stove is clear with some 14 gauge wire. I can see it from the inside.
It's a new stove from Englander. Actually AM FM Energy. I've got an e-mail in to Englander support as well. The pellet stove isn't required for cooling. It just helps out the heat pump when the outside gets below 40F or so. The heat strip will do the same thing and the price is getting close to be even, so it's not a critical repair.
Have you stumbled across the leaf blower trick yet? Perhaps there is still some crud in the venting. This will clear it out. Also, is the little vaccuum hole in the fire box clear? Lastly, can you do the dollar bill test around the door gasket to make sure there isnt a significant leak?
So.... The clogged exhaust cleanout was the original cause. But the not working after was because I hadn't reinstalled the ash pan. There was a nice ~24 sqinch or so hole along the bottom of the stove that was directly exposed to ambient air. The auger is running now and I'm trying a startup. The dollar bill test is fine on the latch side, but doesn't actually grab on the hinge side. The hinge side is unadjustable, though, and the gasket is in good shape.
Sorry for being a jackwagon earlier. I'm glad you are up and running. It's spitting rain sideways here and I have 3 or more cords or split. Therefore I'm trolling...
