The pricng is pretty good, but after I ordered mine I did have 1 company call my back and their prices were a little better. It was a direct sale from manufacture and they could cut cost since there wasnt a dealer. But I already had it ordered. O well Im supporting a local guy so Im happy with what Im getting.
For those interested. Here is the pricing on all of the ports. Includes installation. . I'm only using for wood, so 12' X 21' is plenty. Also. Here is a full "garage" in the same size footprint that Swags is getting. Enclosed with one man door, one garage door. $2,790 is a steal for a garage that is installed at that price.
Is this to season wood or just to store seasoned wood? I guess if you're on the 3 yr plan it wouldn't matter, and if you're really pressed it's open on the sides for wind. Right?
I like that your helping someone out with the sale, sometimes you feel better knowing that despite finding a lower price elsewhere
Mostly to store seasoned wood for now. My thought it to divide it up into sections to separate wood species and wood according to how long its seasoned. But dont know how far I'll go with that.
Gotcha. Sounds like a plan. I'm wondering if I could use something similar to season and store wood. Maybe the lack of airflow would be an issue for pieces towards the center of the carport?
$1000 for 12x26...... Chit, I have that into the racks I built. And they are not covered! If you wanted to park one of these on a paved driveway, how would you anchor it? Unfortunately my entire driveway is on a slight and sometimes not so slight grade.
Concrete anchors, used them when we built barns on slabs and concert footings. Just drill a hole and slide the bolt in and tighten her down. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Village-Ironsmith-2-1-4-in-Masonry-Anchors-MA100/100317880
"Make a plan then work the plan" Nice thing about it being open on all sides you can make make different stacks & have the driest, oldest outside rows be accessible first.
I'd anchor (glue ) down some treated lumber, semi leveling it, then attach the shed to it. Could also drill some small holes & drive in "duck bills" to anchor each corner.
You could "fab" up level supports. But I asked about putting one on my asphalt (have a parking lot on the side) and they said it would not be a problem Slightly off level won't be a huge problem For the cost, had I known several years ago, I wouldn't have built my racks either. My racks are getting moved to the back (by the barn) and the car port is going where my wood area is.
Maybe these http://www.asphaltanchors.com/ Or use ground anchors through the asphalt ,or make holes and pour cement Edit, http://www.asphalt-anchors.com/phocadownloadpap/AN/AN24 Methods of anchoring to asphalt.pdf http://www.dp-corp.com/index.php/products/asphalt-anchors Anchoring to asphalt surfaces - Methods Anchoring any device to an asphalt roadway is quite different from anchoring to concrete surfaces. Asphalt in made of small aggregate stones, held together by the bitumen blacktop. Over time, or under continuous pressure, the bitumen flows like a liquid, and the surfcae yields. There are 4 ways to permanently attach devices to asphalt: Adhesive: This is the simplest way, but it may not work reliably on older surfaces and it will offer a limited force resistance. The failure mode of gluing metal plates to asphalt is that the asphalt layer close to the surface peels off and the plate comes away with about 5mm (1/4") of asphalt. This does not happen overnight, and clearly depends on the quality of the surface as well as on the forces involved. We do not recommend using adhesive alone for the installation of our MySpot 200 barriers, but it is likely to produce good results for the MySpot 120. Anchors: MySpot barriers are provided with CA6 concrete anchors (DPC part number 01-6305). These work superbly on masonry surfaces, but are not suitable for attaching barriers to asphalt. Optional asphalt anchors are available (SP14 family). Full information on these is available on this web site. There are a few 3rd party asphalt anchors on the market. They use an adhesive to fill in the drilled hole in the asphalt, and the anchor is then pushed in or threaded in. One source is Hilti which offer short anchors offering a low pull resistance. Another source is Designated Parking (that is us); we make a specially long asphalt anchor (SP14) that has been proven to work well with the MySpot 200 and other structures (signs, bike racks and more). Anchors Plus Adhesive: This provides a reliable method for mounting our barriers to asphalt. Adding adhesive to attach the mounting plates to the ground reduces the sideways sliding forces on the anchors, which would over time loosen the asphalt and allow the anchors to lift. Concrete Patches: This is the most reliable method, but likely to be the more expensive solution. The surface where the mounting bolts need to attach to the ground is drilled out to a radius of at least 3" (150mm diameter) to a depth of at least 7" (180 mm). The asphalt is removed and concrete is pured in instead. Once the concrete hardened, concrete anchors are installed as usual. An application note covering this topic can be found and downloaded here.
After moving around a bunch of firewood yesterday with the tractor I really got to thinking about the wood shed and how I want to stack in there. My original thought was to stack in there just like anyone else does. This was because I struggled this year keeping tarps on the stacks and having them freeze to the ground. But now I'm thinking that if I just put the pallets under the carport then I wont have those two issues. Downfall to this though is I wont be able to get as much wood into the shed. Would still be able to get more then enough into the shed for the winter though.
Pack as much into the shed as you can and use the Ranger to transport the wood to the house. That's my .02 anyways.
MM They lay the base tubing with the grade and then raise/lower the vertical tubes before screwing them. Gives flexibility on the side-side grade and a bit less on the front-back. But having a bit of a grade there would help shed water if you add the side drip channel Weld nuts onto the top of rebar and drive them through the asphalt. As far as those "tornado rated" screws go - I doubt any carport is standing after a tornado maybe the base tubing would still be there but the structure is going to be torn off
Your right on super high winds. Not much can withstand that. On light weight structures like this carport, a few "tiedown lines" can do wonders in high winds. While installing the roofing, get maybe 3-4, 5/16" eye bolts installed, equal distances, front to back in the peak. These are loop down mounts. I'd even use loc nuts & flat washers up top. Under normal conditions, you'd just leave em… but, when you know you've got a bad storm coming, those loops in the peak can be tied straight down inside to help with winds. You may not even have to add eyebolts, to tie down, if there's room at the peak, between the roofing and the framework.
For more height, Anchor a 4x4 (4x6) to the ground then install the carport on top. or Should be easy to raise it 6" or 12" , cut & splice the verticals. Get some pallets with the slats with about 1" spacing, The pallets with wide slat spacing are trip hazards , I'm changing some of mine out & adding more slats to some.
This thread is exactly what I had in mind. It sounds like the circumstances with the neighbors like the OP shared is similar. Dry wood, portable, I can always replace my platform with a shed as I am not locked in. I plan on wrapping it in garden fencing. Any updates? Those that went this route, are you happy? Custom carport for wood storage?
