Trouble getting straight cuts.

I replaced the factory bumper spikes with a larger set of dual spikes. It seems like my saw wants to cut at an angle now. I have tried several different chains, even a couple that were ground on a machine. Any help would be appreciated...

 

Have you checked the bar?

 

Ya gotta hold your mouth just right.

 

Try putting the other spikes back on , and see if it cuts straight.

 

Pull the saw back a bit and make some cuts off the spikes. If still crooked, check bar rails, rakers (use a progressive gauge). If it cuts straight, the spikes may not be just right.

 

This answer. Those monster spikes give a lot more leverage, any imperfection will be amplified. I'd guess the spikes aren't taking an even bite.

 

I have dressed it with a file some. Haven't trued it though

 

like when ya go fishin'...

 

How can you true up the spikes?

 

Try a couple cuts with out them dug in first as The Wood Wolverine suggested. If the saw cuts straight pay close attention to how the spikes bite into the log. The handle on the saw is offset from the spikes. If you lean up on it hard enough you can throw the cut off with simple leverage. Make sure both cleats on the bottom of the spikes are exactly parallel to each other. If not you need to trim the longer one slightly or move it if there's any slop in the holes. No offense to your sharpening skills, but I'd bed the chains or bar are slightly off & those monster spikes are bringing that out a bit more. They give you extreme leverage on the bar that you don't notice due the bite. Best example I can think of is a saw with only one dawg. Sink it in a log & pull up hard on the handle & your cut will veer off slightly.
Hope this confuses the issue even more.

 

My two cents might only be worth two cents, but make sure those big cutting spikes are tight. The leverage they have tends to make fasteners holding them work loose. My 372 has the bigger dual cutting spikes and if not tighten 2-3 times a year they get wobbly.

 

If one dawg pokes out a little more, you could get the wanders. Nothing a little filing can’t remedy. What saw are they on?

 

MS 362.

 

I figured it might be my sharpening some. I have a small bench grinder that I just trued a couple chains up on. Will try that. Might be my bar also... really don't want to have to take them off, since I paid good for them...

 

Do you use a progressive raker gauge?

 

No sir, don't have one. Usually just use flat file and a couple strokes on each raker. I do have a hand held grinder that has a gauge that I have tried to use.

 

You could be getting different cut performance on one side of the chain vs the other, allowing the left (or right) teeth to cut more aggressive and causing your curved cut. Big dogs exploiting the small variance.
The gauges are usually less than $5 and set the rakers to each cutter, compensating for variations in cutter length.
(not my vid) Just posting the vid to show and explain the progressive gauge.

 

I have one of these and it seems to work ok.
Shop Oregon Chainsaw Sharpening File at Lowes.com

 

Ah, but you are supposed to be filing/ grinding all your cutters to the same length on both sides. when using a grinder you do have reset your stop between sides, can't just swing it over to the other side.

 

Yep, I found that out. Luckily it was an old chain I was practicing on. Friend gave me the Harbor Freight brand grinder, it has a lot to be desired, but it was a gift.