Ya know, be careful what you joke about...it might just happen. My 20 ton Brave wood splitter was bought my dad around 1983. Never had any issue with it at all. I was commenting to my buddy, that it's about time to replace the hydraulic hoses. I was splitting some 30 inch black cherry butt cuts Vertically, then returned it to horizontal and working along when I smelled something awful...yup a pin hole leak in the line right by the engine. I will go to CTS or Napa this week and get a length of hydraulic hose for the replacement. I can reuse the hose clamps that are on there now. What I would like to do better...is to figure out a way to keep the hose from 'flopping' on top of the engine...I know it needs some play in the line for when I move it vertical...but, when it's horizontal that hose is right there by the engine/exhaust. The easiest thing I can think of is to fabricate a simple arm/shield that keeps the hose up and away from the hot zone. I know the modern machines have a spring/coil over the hoses....but that seems like money I probably don't have to spend. Any thoughts or suggestions? ...figure I will change the filter and fluid while I am doing this. I appreciate your input.
How about rigging up a spring like one from an old wooden screen door, It pulls it away from the engine but allows it to stretch when vertical? A shield is good as it will protect the engine as well.
I am new and don't know everything but....a warning to everyone. Don't ever check a hydraulic leak with your hand or any other part of your body. The fluid coming out can slice your fingers off in a second or inject you! An injection looks like a small bee sting. The above picture is what it turns into...seen it...
Good idea. On my root grapple I have a keeper that hold hoses up from getting pinched. There are several types and they are springs...
I get to take care of people that do such things...can't always fix the human body...can't forget the screams either. With tractors, chain saws, splitters, axes, trucks, trailers, quads, winches....respect the machinery folks.
I'm all about economical so whatever is cheap aka economical and works well. And I don't know about any other manual, but mine says use cardboard to check for hydraulic leaks. It pays to RTFM.
Tell ya what else might work. Woven fiberglass insulation. Many stove manufacturers use it for gasket material on their doors. Wrap it around the hose and make it long enough so you can tape it on each end.
Saw many videos like that and more when in the USAF, warning us of potential hydraulic leaks, as well as people pretty much turned inside out by disassembly of split rims without a cage. Some things you can't unsee. Good reminder on respecting the dangers. Oh, just so y'all know, don't play in liquid oxygen, or nitrogen, or Nat gas. Bad stuff happens quickly.
Okay....getting back to the machine...found a local place to make up new hoses for me. New hoses will be rated for 3500 psi, that should be more than enough. Also, got a new filter and hydraulic fluid while I am at it. I was going to drain the Hydraulic oil then put in some Kerosene to flush the tank....that sound okay? My next question is that once I have it back together and the new fluid in it...do I need to bleed off the system??? or just cycle it a few times and check Hydraulic Fluid level after a few cycles?
I would be leery of doing that. I'm not sure it would hurt anything, but I think you'd be potentially causing problems un-necessarily. $.02 Shouldn't need bled off either, just make sure to check fill level after a few cycles.
I think I would bleed the system at the cylinder connections so as not to get any air in the cylinder. It looks to have site entry fittings so air could get trapped in the cylinder.
Okay...not sure what site entry fittings are. Do I just open them a little and cycle the cylinder? And...what happens if Air is in the cylinder?
