Hi guys. And the Back story. (Longwinded) As I transition to living in Vermont and a Firewood Hoarder, I’ve bought a stove to offset the oil fired boiler costs. It is a Lopi Leyden. This is going into a large Rumsford fireplace. I have a near new clay tile glue liner that is approx 11x13 in the chimney. I’ll have to go through the damper and set the wood stove out forward to top load. It has a 6” round outlet. So, to do this right. Should I ?? Get a 6” SS liner wrapped in insulation and drop down the chimney ovalized slightly to get through a hole cut in the damper into a T coming off the back of the stove with a clean out on the bottom. Don’t install an inline pipe damper? Where would be a good place to have parts ordered from? I’ve followed along and I believe this is a CAT stove. First for me after a couple of ol Ben franklins and a vermont casting resolute way back. Due to the orifices in the rear mentioned in another thread. I think the flue is too large even in perfect shape and the draft and creosote build up may not be right for the stove to work correctly is why I “think” I should pawn my 4 year old granddaughter and buy a liner. Any and all comments and tips are welcomed. I have installed a through the damper pipe before and have the tools and equipment to include welding to fab up a damper blockoff plate or cut the old one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You're on the right track here. I ordered mine from Rockford Chimney Supply. I believe they are still running their %10 off all flexible chimney liners sale. Maybe with %10 off you won't have to pawn the granddaughter off
Yes 6" Flex Liner, Insulation is always recommended, and sometimes Required. You'll be better off if you cut a portion of the Damper frame out, to allow the liner to come through without ovalizing the liner. When you ovalize the 6" liner you also reduce the amount of draft, and it may put smoke into the house when you open the stove door to add more wood. If your stove has Air Control levers, you may not need the pipe damper, but you can use one if you wish. The Tee snout (pipe) that goes into the stove will need to be crimped (using crimping pliers) so it will fit or ask the supplier to do it - usually $5.00 charge.
The Leyden is a non cat down draft stove. Many reviews say these type of stoves are a little problematic getting them to operate properly. A good draft is essential so I'd definitely use an insulated liner.
This ^ ^ ^. You can check with Chimney Liner Depot too. Oh, and don't buy "2 ply" liner like I did (its crap) heavy duty is OK if you think you need that (most people don't really (IMO) but 2 ply doesn't work out too well long term
Correct on the Smoothwall liner, it dose have issues when using it with Wood burning application. If using it with gas or oil appliances it works great, and because of the smooth wall it sometimes allows you to drop down on the liner size needed - for gas it gives you a 20% better draft, oil 15% better draft.
I’ve saved a kit in my shopping cart which consists of : 6x20 preinsulated liner. Tee with cap for bottom connector. Top plate 13x18 flat. Rain cap. Total will be around 785. From Discount Chimney Supply. I’ll give it a day to get comments from you guys and pull the trigger. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I got a great deal on a pre insulated liner for my second chimney a few years back...and I like it, but if I had not found the deal that I did, I would have just bought a standard liner kit with insulation kit and DIY it (actually did that on the main chimney) looks like that would save you $100-$300. There are lots of vids on youtube on how to do it...not that hard really. 6"x 20 Single Ply Chimney Liner Kit An insulation kit will run a couple hundred more...
6" x 20' Pre-Insulated Liner Kit with a 13 x 18 Flat Top Plate, Tee and Rain Cap. - $799.99 from Rockford Chimney supply, Ask for their 10% discount on their Liner kits - $719.99 or do it yourself on line.
Awesome! Worked perfectly! Thanks for the heads up. 80 bucks richer. Lenny Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And today I was able to get the stove and liner installed. Pretty straight forward on the roof part. Removed the complete damper from inside. (Cut a bolt with a 4” grinder). Could not get the tee pipe into the back of the stove. I fought with that thing for an hour and finally run to tractor supply and bought a 90 degree and a 6”-6” crimped piece to connect it all up. 10 minutes fix. Also had ordered the optional blower and installed it during the installation. Lit her up. Throwed some red oak in got it going good, the blower came on and the living room went from 65 to 77 in one hour. (Wife is burning up she says) So thanks for the advice from all. I did get a dump trailer split up of the big oak rounds this morning before I started on this project. I’m trying to scrounge before buying if I can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
