A couple of the mods will remember this saw from back before this site existed. The first non-running saw I acquired was an 034 (free!) with a spun PTO-side crank bearing. The bearing was a sloppy fit in the case. Attempts to save the original case failed miserably, and the parts have sat in a tray for several months. I recently decided to have another crack at it. I found what looked (and was claimed to be) a crankcase with its own crankshaft and good, original bearings intact, in excellent shape on eBay. I bought it, and at first it seemed fine but when I was preparing to build the saw up on it I discovered that the rod bearing was shot. The seller apologized profusely and offered a full refund, but instead I suggested he just give me a partial refund. I figured I could split the case and substitute my original crank. The seller was fine with that plan. When I split the case, the recoil-side bearing stayed on the crankshaft rather than in the case. I didn't think anything of it at the time. I decided to replace the bearings, so I ordered an aftermarket set and put the saw back on the shelf while I waited for them to arrive. They got here this morning, and I discovered to my dismay that the recoil-side bearing fits, just barely, into its recess without heating the case half. It's not a sloppy fit at all; in fact it's so tight that I didn't notice the slop until *after* I'd already heated the case, dropped in the bearing, and was playing with it after it all cooled. There had been a particle of debris or something in the new bearing that was occasionally catching as I spun the inner race, and I had been fiddling with it for several minutes trying to figure that out before I realized I could push the bearing out of the case by hand. So, damm. What's worse is that I can't make sense of it. Unlike the original case with the horrificly spun PTO bearing, this one doesn't have any visible sign of having spun, i.e. no scratches or slop. It looks perfect, and there's so little play that I could easily have assembled the saw and not even noticed the problem. And yet the recess in the case is a couple of thousandths too big, and if you push in just the right way, the bearing will come out easily. Can any of the more experienced mechanics offer a theory as to how this might happen? The crankshaft that I took out of this case was in really bad shape -- it actually fell apart when I split the case, because one of the counterweights had cracked at the rod journal, and both counterweights had the telltale rainbow of overheating colors near the rod journal. I couldn't see any evidence that the overheating had progressed along the crankshaft or affected the case. I can't help but think it's related somehow, but I can't figure out how.
I'm feeling for ya, sometimes you just can't win. I only split one case, an 031, and decided that I didn't want to ever go down that road again. Didn't have the right tools to do it right myself. Gambled and bought a used one on ebay that was nice. In retrospect, probably should have grabbed the full refund when you had the chance, and gone for another one, but that's downstream now. That's probably your cheapest "out" at this point still ................ roll the dice on another ebay case, versus the cost of new/used OEM parts bought individually to get the old case working. Something like this one for $45 - ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-CHAIN...071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35cb54fbff
Thanks, Boog. I don't regret splitting the case. I improvised a tool for it and the process went pretty smoothly, partly because I had some practice last year when I split the first damaged case. The fit of this bearing is so close that it's tempting to just use it, along with some of the appropriate (and expensive) green Loctite. Even as it is the bearing literally squeaks in and out -- there's no perceptible radial play whatsoever. *sigh*
I have no real advise, other than to take another shot on a cheap case? If it's that loose? It's bound to spin? For the price you paid for it (lucky ), even after buying another cheap case? It could still make you some money. I have an 034 that I just acquired, and I still need to dig into it. It's seized pretty good. Depending on how bad it is, it may need a case? This one will be Swags when it's done.
Lucky, eh? This "free" project saw is already the most expensive one I've had so far. It has taught me a lot, though, so on balance it's still worth it.
Yep.. You sure are lucky. You beat me by minutes, and he held it for a few weeks for you? IIRC? Good learning experience is almost as good as money in the pocket. This 034 doesn't seem to be as bad as I thought. The saw was seized (really wouldn't turn over), had to "twist" the cylinder to break it loose. Some pretty heavy damage, although in a small spot, it's still bad. So it will resume life as a "sleeper" 036
I just can't stay away from a 1125 discussion on here haha. Since MasterMech helped me pull the trigger on my first 034, I've been into 7 1125 saws. Out of the 7 I have 5 runners. One of the cases is completely shot with a shot clutch-side bearing and damage from AV mounts. The bearing is crunchy and I bought it for parts after giving the crank a wiggle. The other case (036 I think) is rough looking but seems tight. I also know of another 034 or 036 that I could get pretty cheap for ya. Dex- have you been down the 034/036 hybrid road yet? If so then you probably know the usual changes- probable cylinder cover mod, possible muffler spacers, etc. If you need any parts for the build let me know. Are you goin with aftermarket? My Hyway is a great running saw...
The saw (034) has a spacer already and it has an 036 muffler. The top cover, I may just spend $10-$20 and get a 036 (non Pro) cover w/metal tag off eBay. Otherwise, I will just cut/grind with a Dremel on the 034 cover. Thanks for the offer and the PM the other day. If I need anything, your gonna be my 1st stop. I'm glad you've gained so much knowledge on them. They really are great saws.
You really don't know what you've got until you clean the transfer off those cylinders. Unless you can see gouges above the port already.....
I cleaned it up a little. . . Under the transfer is a couple good gouges. Definitely under the plating. I was told, that if the lines are linear with the cylinder (not horizontal and can't catch your nail going up and down), that eventually they would fill with carbon. This cylinder is one that would be o.k. to use. The 2 lines above and one below are perfectly vertical lines and no rough spot at the port edges. Still needed some cleaning work here.
My Uncle told me years ago...that its always the "free" projects that always cost a fella the most . I have found this to always be true !