maybe I should do like I did the year before, fully closing it before going to bed instead of leaving it open around 10% but that will make me clean the glass more often (my guess) but maybe it would be better for the chimney? that I really don't know ... but this winter I will check the interior chimney around mid January (cleaning it at the same time) and decide from there if i should do the exterior one too
That 90 degree bend in the chimney might be partially to blame. I've read somewhere that it may affect draft to the tune of losing 5-6 feet of stack. Who knows? We're all here to talk and think lol
I leave the air input where it is during the day for an overnite burn. If it doesn't make it to morning it doesn't make it. The oil boiler will come on if it gets too cold. In my experience choking the air back too much to slow down the burn just loads up the short three feet of horizontal pipe with flakes and powder something fierce. ( something fierce being more than I would like ) It really doesn't make sense to me to have one set of rules for day burning and another for night. With this stove and chimney I've been fortunate to have had very well seasoned firewood.
If it's sooting the glass, it is sooting the chimney as well. There won't be a standard damper setting until you have a consistent dry wood supply. At night get it rolling good and damper down enough to settle it down but not smolder. If it doesn't last all night, so be it. Better than loading up your chimney with creosote. Once you get enough wood hoarded you won't have any problems. And welcome to the club!
Well dry creosote is much better than tar. Tar can catch fire, giving an uncontrollable burn in the stack, or even a burn thru. Yes a 90° bend greatly reduces the draw, or "chimney" effect, and that can cause more creosote. Usually, it is recommended to have at least twice the chimney after that 90° bend, than pipe below it, to help bring back the draw lost because of the bend. What type of spark arrestor do you have at the top of the chimney, as that can be a choke on your draft, or chimney effect. And yes, if burning damp wood, get the chimney good and hot before the damp wood if possible, and try to get a good burn before the cool down to help eliminate or reduce the creosote. I generally start with a top burn to get the chimney hot to draw good, then a bottom burn to light the wood, but some think that is double the work. But a hot chimney helps the draw much more than a cool one. A better draw, eliminates the creosote buildup in the beginning of your burn. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Hey Spirch, many of us have had this problem so you are not alone. Of course, first and foremost is the fuel problem. Once you get that in check you will not only notice a huge difference in dirty chimney but you will also burn less wood and get more heat. That is worth a lot! I would not be too concerned over the 90 degree elbow as many, many installations have this, including me. Not only that but we also have a short chimney. And the rule of thumb is to deduct 2-3' from the chimney (that is your chimney height is effectively reduced by that much) for every 90 degree bend. So if your chimney is 16', it effectively is 13-14' height. As for night time burning, shutting the air off is usually not a good thing to do. The manufacturer's advise at 10% is a general rule; not hard and fast. Naturally, if the wood is not up to par, you have to give more draft. Also it will make more black glass for you to clean. On the creosote, we used to clean our chimney quite often but after getting a new Woodstock stove, we don't worry. My wife still does though and runs a brush in it every summer. Usually get next to nothing from it. We could easily leave it 4-5 years between cleaning. Of course our wood is dry because we are on the 3 year plan and I'd hope you strive to get there as it will do a lot for you. It does take a lot of work to get there but worth it. Also, you don't have to do it all in one year. One member, TurboDiesel got on the plan and I believe it took him 5 years to reach his goal but he is a very happy camper. Here is some information you might find helpful: Primer on Woodburning by Backwoods Savage
Yes, it did take me 5 years to get on the three year plan. I have about 4 years worth now. I will try to stop when I get to the five year plan. We get 90% oak and with our moist soil and high humidity it takes three years to dry. And, top covering is a must...especially this year with our record 50 inches of rain so far.
Welcome to the club, Spirch ! It's great to have you! I believe most of your creosote problems will go away when you have all "seasoned" wood in your stacks. The dusty ash is normal in the stack though. I think your burning habits are pretty good so far.
this is the setup, i need to check / fix the interior pipe, it seem crooked on the picture but not when i'm in front of it
I use a little cube to check the angle of pipe something like that, I guess i better use my eye for this
Also make sure there is some rise in that horizontal section of pipe. Code says 1/4" per foot. We like 1/2" per foot of rise; less problems.
Why not use one of the many anti-creosote products available? I use a spray throughout the season. I have since day one so I really don't know how much of a difference it is making but I don't get much soot after sweeping my stack. It coats the brick when I'm done and I sweep it into the pan. Never measured it but it doesn't look enough to make me concerned.
