hello Can someone explain what the igniter pump does? On harman furnace. And do I need it if I’m going to do manual light? Thanks
The heat pump is simply an air pump which blows air through the igniter, which ignites the pellets. You can manually light the furnace, but what are you going to do once the sensor feels its "up to temperature".....(I guess "service mode"?)? Since the furnace will actually shut down when its run in AUTO mode, and it cant relight itself (no heat pump or igniter), that, to me, would feel like a detriment. The earliest PF100's didnt have a heat pump, rather, they had a simple igniter and lit just like the other Harman pellet stoves (comb blower dragged air over the igniter). The, they went to the heat pump and tubular igniter, and stayed that way up through the PF120, until they sunsetted the PF line, quite a few years ago now..... In short.....yea, you need the igniter and pump.
thanks, I have done some hard searching. My PF100 is an older model and did not have the pump. But I can not find a wiring diagram for the older models. Do you have one? Lol. On harman website I have service models as well, I need a auger motor and guess what, they make 2 different motors. A 6 rpm and a 10 rpm. But after studying diagrams I’ve come to find out it’s a 6 Rpm motor. So ya, I’ll get new motor(6rpm), hope to find wiring diagram(one without air pump) and go from there. I’ll install igniter if I can get it running. For now I’ll just start with the manual ignition. Thanks
Really good ball bearing motors, made in the USA.......you need the # A906 Pellet and Corn Stove Auger Drive Motors Sizes - Gleason Avery Sub-Fractional Motors Manufacturer
Thanks, fairly decent prices as well. Now all I need is a proper wiring diagram before the air pump came along! It may be the same just minus the pump? Be awesome if you had that too!!! Thanks again!
Wiring Diagram - Harman PF100 Installation & Operating Manual [Page 36] Igniter Pump is wired in (parallel) w/ the Igniter element on models equipped, so .. - wires "should be" (Y)ellow, off the (11 pin) plug, and (B)lue sky, off the low-pressure switch. * low pressure (vacuum) switch is a "fail-safe" that controls power to the feeder motor & igniter: e.g., neither will work if no vacuum is detected.
Hello again, So here we go! Before I start, you guys are awesome and very knowledgeable! How I fixed the yellow wire. I removed the 11 pin plug connect, but there was no way I could fix the wire in the harness. So I cut the white 11 pin plug harness, and removed about a 1/4" of it. And I just crimped a connector on the wire, then put it on the pin. But the 11 pin plug is now in 2 pieces, but pin 4 through 7 is not used anyways. And simply plugged the upper and lower part of the 11 pin plug back on. Perfect, get my drift? Lol I also wired this as the diagram minus the pump, seems to be fine. K, so everything seems to work. The combustion fan works, the circulation fan works, and the auger works as well. So I turned this on and let it run, I get a 4 blink error code. But reading the code book it's just the thermostate. I'm going to rig the thermostate up later. So here's the million dollar question, would you presume this furnace is going to work? Or/and is there other test(s)that should be done before firing? Thanks again
yea, the 4 blink code is telling you that your thermostat is either not present or malfunctioning, but I think you already know that. Have you tested the big squirrel cage fan? What about the stack control in the plenum? Thats what turns on the big fan in the box on he side of the stove which pushes heated air throughout the house. Will it work? No way of knowing, really, but I am cautiously optimistic. Not really following your "fix", so, theres that. There should be a wiring diagram in the owners manual as well. The wiring diagram provided above, as well as the wiring diagram provided on Harman's website is actually for the pressure igniter version. I couldn't easily put my hands on an "old" wiring diagram with the finned igniter....this would be a REALLY old unit. Open the front of the burnpot, stick your fingers in there and see if you feel the finned igniter in there. I'm thinking you've the pressure ignition, but could be wrong. I believe the 10 rpm motor was on the PF120, while the 6 rpm was the PF100. So, yea, you need the 6 rpm one. My suggestion would be to hook up everything, THEN see if it works......thermostat, stack control, big fan, etc. All somewhat dependent on the other. Also, make sure to check out the baffles in the combustion chamber and ensure they are there, not warped, or holed. Check out the burnpot, make sure it isn't cracked or holed (VERY EXPENSIVE to replace!)....check out the flame guide and flame guide insulator (just above the burnpot), they are often doinked. Bon chance!
Yes, the circulation fan works like a charm, the control for the circulation fan is not installed. After everything works I'll put my duct work to it and install the control. The combustion fan also works fine. I hauled the burn pot out of the furnace, the top burn pot was in rough shape. So I cut it out with the plasma and going to make a stainless one instead. From pictures on the Internet, it seems the burn pot is rusting out from ash, not really burning out. I'll take a picture and show ya. There was no igniter in the burn pot when I got it. Actually that's what the yellow wire is for that I fixed. And the yellow wire cycles on when it calls to ignite. The furnace is stamped as being built in January 2006. I will check the top baffles this weekend. Also going to hook thermostate up this weekend, small job. Also goong to install auger motor this weekend as well. I'm in need of a brick, was putting this off to make sure this furnace actually worked. But I'm far enough along I'm going to buy one soon. So, I'll have some more details and information later on this weekend. But I must say its been a great little project. Thanks again for helping me out.
I think it will work. Better than the old one. Lol I was careful to drill the same amount of holes, with the same spacing, and of course the same size holes. Think it’ll work?
I hope you're using stainless steel Got to pat you on the back for taking on a job like that The old burnpot was toast
yea, I think it will. Harman found out it needed to be stainless steel the hard way, but this should work, even if it isnt.....just watch the pot, and replace again if needed. Also, that backplate LOOKS warped....might want to double gasket that thing......I could be wrong on the warp though...the warp in the pic looks to be on the first knuckle of your thumb....throw a straightedge on that and see it it is straight.
Yep, it’s bent just a little there. Think I might have bent it in the vise when I cut the old plate out. Small job, I’ll straighten her out.!!!! Can’t wait to try this pellet monster!!!!!
