Car Audio. Were/Are you an enthusiast?

Those are awesome! Such a PITA soldering wires.

 

I saw those! I'm just going to solder my harnesses, then heatshrink.

Also found these...too bulky for this project, but noted for future usage.

Posi-Twist- Non In-Line Connections

I did buy their inline fuse holder for the power lead on the Sony amp. Pulled trigger yesterday. Was tired of tormenting myself trying to decide.

Sony XMS400D

Posi-Products™ Fuse Holder Kit

I ohmed out one of the oem door speakers this morning...3.4 ohm. Hmmm. I need the truck back to get impedance of the tweeters. I'm really wanting to know what the deal is with the connected speaker/tweeter and Toyota's wiring. Going to check resistance at the harness plug and each speaker and see what I come up with. Easy answer is to run new lines...I'd rather just stick with the factory harnesses if at all possible. Worst case...I think I can run tweets off of unused speaker outputs off back of head unit on dedicated circuits.

So it begins....

There are some great options out there for marine application. This is a little expensive, but there are amps that would give you two or four channels for the mid/highs and a separate subwoofer channel. If I didn't already have an amp for sub, I may have went this route instead of two separate amps.
Open Box (Complete) - Kicker 44KXMA8005 (LS-44kxma8005-OBC8) 800W RMS KXM Series Marine



I have to admit...my project ballooned a little bit in scope and budget. Still trying to be frugal. There are much, much more expensive components available than what I am utilizing.

 

Way back............decades ago.......(many decades)..I needed better/louder sound in the car I owned.

I ended up buying Mind Blowers-they were an amplified speaker (6X9) and performed great! Thanks for the nostalgia trip!


Something like this package.

 

Very cool!!

 

I never realized that you could change the speakers on these things!

 

OK, today's dilemma has me shying away from Rockford for new sub and heading towards JL.

This is the modern day equivalent to what I previously had. Specs better than the Fosgate (also more money) I was looking at. Reviews on the JL are prettymuch stellar across the board. I think this woofer will be more capable than the Fosgate at the level of power I will be feeding. Just over 300 watts is "optimal" according to JL website. My sub amp makes just slightly less than that bridged at 4ohm. The JL's like a sealed box...so do I. They look somewhat boring, but there is a ton of technology in these speakers. Have read over and over people like me who had the old version getting the new and being very impressed.

12W3v3-4




Last one cost me $1.25 per month of lifespan....I just can't be mad about that.

Was all over the place looking at Alpine Type Rs, Sundowns, Kicker, Cerwin Vega. Everything seems to be uber-rated for wattage when you are looking a mid to higher end woofers (800-1000w RMS). I don't really want to go that route because I would need a larger amp, then would have to worry about the sub overpowering the rest of the music....stereo proliferation.

 

The little Sony showed up yesterday with some wire from Crutchfield. It's so precious! lol









I'm liking the Posi Products fuse holder!



Also, got estimate back from dealer for "recommended repairs" as they inspected the truck before tearing it down for frame swap....



Uh, yeah...like I'm gonna pass, thanks. LOL!!

Issues (knew about mostly everything):

Blower motor noisy. I have a new one at the house...dealer want $410.50...part cost $120 on Amazon...pass.

Tire pressure monitor lamp on...diagnose $129.00. It has been on since I changed wheels about 8 years ago. I check my pressures with a guage, as God intended. Ha! Pass.

Air bag light on. So another dealer had supposedly changed clock spring under recall...light came on a month later (1.5 years ago). Pass.

Replace steering shaftshaU joints have been a little stiff last two winters, warm weather no noticeable. I can do this myself. $400.00. Pass.

Replace dirty air filter (I have a k&n in it) Thanks, I'll just clean it. $37.95. Pass.

Sway bar end links. Yeah...knew this was coming also. Notorious early failure in Toyota 4x4s. Can purchase parts including new bushings for ~$45-50. $481 to do end links, $154.09 for bushings. PASS.

Needs new serp belt. Also needs an idler as well that they didn't note. Been planning to do this when I get time. $192.36. Pass.

Also recommending diff and t case fluid change. Needs done but not necessary right now. I have royal purple in there that has about 60k on it. Will get to that this winter. Spark plug change. I have new plugs at home for it already. $289.95. Holy schitt! I can change them in about an hour. Plugs cost $3.79each. PASS.

Throttle body service. In all fairness, this probably needs done, but I'm not willing to pay them $150 to do it.

So...I have some things to do after I get the truck back besides stereo. None of the items listed are keeping the truck from being driveable. I'll work on them this fall and into winter. I have a buddy with a lift and am ultimate set of tools (I think his dad is a TV repairman). There are no services listed that I cannot complete on my own.

Hope they don't get mad, but gonna tell em to do the frame and suspenders and nothing else. $3200 for stuff I can buy $500 worth of parts and complete myself.

I ain't mad...knew this was coming from them. "Incidentals."

They getting plenty of money from Toyota to do the frame.

 

$3200! Smh!
One thing I wanted to give my opinion on, I think powering tweets with hu is not going to give you good sound. Just my .02.

 

Understood. All the options I have looked at (mostly from Quart) are very low RMS rating...like 22 watts and 50 watts. I may yet be able to integrate them. I gotta get the truck back and play with the ohm meter a bit to figure out the impedance 'scheme' they have in there.

Edit: Depending on how the Sony pushes the new speakers, I may forgo separate tweets. We shall see...soon hopefully. Got a pile of stuff ready to go into the truck and am getting antsy.

Yep. I feel really bad for anyone unable or unwilling to work on their vehicle themselves. Millenials probably think that knowing how to change spark plugs isnt something they need to know...till they get charged $290.00 to have them changed. Wow. That's the worst one of all of them. That's about $266.00 an hour labor charge. They are very easy to change on this truck.

 

Yup, you got it. I think with regards to tweeters they are wimpy, you won't blow them like a sub. So perhaps the guidance wasn't worded so well, but given the current draw of the tweeter you will be fine.

 

$280 to pull the xfer case drain plug, then fill it back up with oil? What a deal!!!

 

For imaging/sound stage it would beneficial to have them working. You’ll figger something out.

 

Honestly if the rates were reasonable, I'd have them do some of the services. I just can't even though.

It's been fun so far. Making good choices hopefully so I don't have to mess with it much later. Changed mid range patch RCAs that go from deck to Sony to stinger brand. Details. That's another reason I'm going to solder all the speaker connections also. I like a wire to wire connection for output at least. The caps just take too much room. I'm am struggling with whether or not to out the coax speakers in foam baffles. 50% of people like them, 50% say they are terrible and ruin the sound. Compromised and just bought fronts for now. Moisture is what killed my old 6x9s. They get $15-20 pair for the things and don't want to waste money...I have an expensive sub to purchase yet. Ordered 36sq ft of sound deadening material also. Can't do whole cab, but want to hit the doors and rear wall a bit. Never laid a hand on this stuff before. Should be interesting first go around.

KILMAT Car Sound Deadening - Кilmat Car sound deadening shop

 

I for sure don't want the dealership to hurry to get my truck done, but I got a pile of stuff waiting to go on/in my truck when it gets back. If they keep it too long, I may have to start modding the loaner.

Got another batch of goodies last night. Foam baffles for 6x9s, RCA cables for the Sony amp, Kilmat sound deadening material & roller, extra harness to wire Sony amp to deck.

Managed to dig my old Weller solder gun out of the basement. Going to use it rather than my trusty butane fired pen for most of the solder joints. Have been stumped trying to find some rosin flux locally. Our town doesn't really have an electronics store since Radio Shack went away. There is a bunch of flux for sale...but it is of the plumbing variety.

 

[QUOTE="RCBS, post: 857540, member: 3341]Have been stumped trying to find some rosin flux locally. Our town doesn't really have an electronics store since Radio Shack went away. There is a bunch of flux for sale...but it is of the plumbing variety.[/QUOTE]
I always bought solder with the rosin core. 2 birds with one stone.

 

I have looked at the Fosgate pre-fab boxes a little. They always seem to get great reviews. That's a nice, clean and simple install there. What are specs on the amp?

I always bought solder with the rosin core. 2 birds with one stone.
View attachment 177474 [/QUOTE]

I have rosin core 60/40 lead/tin but my soldering always seems to go better if I have some additional paste. I did most of the Sony harness last night with varying degrees of success. Been a little while since I fired up an iron. The Weller electric gun died on my on the first joint? It fired up and got hot for about 45 seconds, then went cold on me. Had the trigger pulled the entire time. Had to use the butane iron, which isn't bad, but not ideal either. Waste a lot of fuel while arranging connections and whatnot.

The Helping Hand worked great, as always. It's a nice little 'once in a while' tool to have.




I get my truck back tonight after work. This weekend, I hope to get the new amp, rear door speakers, speaker baffles and sound deadening (at least some of it) installed. Probably be two more weeks until the woofer arrives. Next weekend is reserved for swaybar end links and new lower steering shaft.

I need to address some connection issues for the sub amp anyways...get some proper copper lugs and find a better ground than I was previously using. Luckily, the power lead and RCAs remained in the truck, so putting the amp back in service shouldn't be too difficult.

Hope to make a decision on tweeters as well this weekend. I gotta know what impedance the factory wiring will yield first.

 

I just about exclusively use my "helping hand" for similar applications!

 

I ended up putting blue shrink tube on the clips...spring pressure a bit strong and likes to chew through insulation. Other than that....for less than $10...wonderful.

 

Got antsy pantsy last night and chucked the 6-1/2 speakers into the rear doors. No pics, dammed phone battery died on me. I have to say...those doors are rattle traps and very 'tinny'. Deadening mat should make a big difference once installed. Was first time taking off rear door skins...went OK. Lost one of the little plug thingies...gotta find a source for them as some are missing in other spots also. the little round plugs with the 'button' in the middle.

This evening, the Sony mini amp will be installed. Only have to run power & ground and 3 lines to head unit. Did all the rest on the bench. May try to put baffles behind front speakers depending on time.