I have the Huskee 28 ton log splitter which has a 1-7/8" cylinder. I've always like the idea of using stroke limiters for two reasons. The obvious is limiting the stroke without having to think about it and having a stroke that was set to the size of the split that will fit into my stove. I picked one up that fit my splitter from Napa and yesterday after about 20 minutes of use I noticed the bolt that held my wedge was bent and broken. At first I was blaming the guy that did some warranty work when my wedge was split open a couple of years ago for using the wrong grade bolt so I went out and got a grade 5 to replace it. About 30 minutes later that was also broken in half, not bent but snapped in the middle. After that I gave up for the day because the first replacement cost me $3.80 at Napa so I wasn't going back there. Today I when to a place that sells by the pound and picked up some grade 8 bolts in various forms. I got 4 bolts, regular nuts and some lock nuts (for the price this place charges I always buy extra) for about $2.50. Before I put it on I cycled my cylinder to see where it stopped with and with out the limiters on and learned the wedge doesn't hit anything with out the limiters, it just kicks out when fully retracted. But with the limiters , the limiters do what I would guess they would do and bump the wedge then kicks out. My question is, say the grade 8 bolt holds and doesn't break. Could this hurt anything else? Really, this thing is a 28 ton splitter why did it never break after running about 25 cords of wood through it pushing a wedge but breaks when being pulled with the limiters? Is there really that much force used to kick out the return and can that be adjusted? Thanks for reading. If pictures are need I can post them. I'm open the all opinions.
Just thinking out loud but the bolt may be designed to shear, replacing with a harder bolt may not be a good idea.. Have you though about a block of wood at the foot end then let it retract normally.
I have a friend with an iron n oak splitter who bought the same stroke limiters -- ended up breaking the collar on the wedge where rod attaches. I have a northstar splitter, when I let wood scraps get built up under the 'log stripper' (so the rod doesn't fully retract) I can bend or break the bolt holding the wedge... It's best to let the cylinder fully retract to stop the cycle and not put pressure on that connection. (Just buy a stove that takes a 24" stick)
A block of wood might be an option. I answered one of my questions after I posted. There is no pressure on the bolt when splitting, the end of the cylinder butts up against the wedge. The bolt just holds it in place. As far as being designed to shear, yes that is sort of why I'm asking. I did notice the hole going through the wedge is slightly elongated. I'm not sure if that happened the short time I had the limiters on or if that developed over time.
Always had enough time to kick the lever back...put a log on.....and stop the lever where it needed to be !! But.... I have to add in the getting older factor slowing things down these days
I'm working on this for my 22 ton Huskee splitter now. I will post pictures when I finish it. It's a work in progress.
I'd like to see a picture of that also. The little bit of time I put in with the limiters did speed things up. I actually slowed my self down by stopping the ram from returning out of habit.
I always wanted to rig a foot control for the ram. I'd want it so if I was depressing the control the ram was coming down, when let off it would always be retracting until it was all the way back.
My first thought to that was, it's a good idea. Then I thought I'd be likely to get busy or tired or both… and get my hand, that usually runs the lever, between the log and the wedge. I know how I can be with my big feet and I really hate pain so… think I'll stick to the one hand rule.
What is likely to happen over time is the grade 8 bolts will stretch the hole in the wedge collar until it eventually fails. You are however likely to notice this wear before it actually fails however. The reason it has not failed with normal use is because the cylinder rod most likely contacts the back of the wedge directly and transfers force that way rather than through the bolt. A picture of where the rod connects to the wedge would indeed be helpful in identifying the weak points of the setup. EDIT: After examining a picture of this splitter, how thick are the vertical pieces that that attach the rod to the wedge?
If you REALLY want to limit stroke, drill them out and make bushings. When you wear out the bushings, replace them. It would be helpful if the return detent was adjusted to the bare minimum required to function. Also note that if there is any threaded portion of the bolt shank in the hole, it will wear the hole out MUCH faster.
Well it was nice while it lasted. I don't see a way to adjust the return and looking at it in better light I did stretch the holes on the wedge a bit. I don't think it will be that much of a problem if I use it the way it was designed but I just dumped $50 down the drain as I don't see myself using them again. I had no idea the return stroke was that strong on this splitter otherwise I would have never tried them. If anyone has any interest after reading this thread make me an offer. LOL.
What are stroke limiters? Do you have a picture? You can get collars that go around the cylinder shaft to adjust how much the cylinder can retract. They are used on farm implements.
I don't see how they can be breaking the bolt in the wedge. Can you post a pic so my dumbass can understand?