Well, I've encountered my first failure on my Poulan PP4218 yesterday. Went in to work yesterday to make up for some time off on Thursday to take wife to the Buffalo VA for a pulmonary visit. Work is cool by letting us make up time rather than be forced to use vacation time. So I get home, take the dog for her walk, then change and figure I'd hit the woodpile. I get a few logs cut and stop for a few to move rounds about. Look at my chain and it's dirty as all getout, and hot. Not discolored, but I wouldn't grab it with my bare hands. Looks like my oiler took a dump. First steps, took off bar & chain, clean the chain groove and ensure oiler hole is clean. No joy. so I run it with the bar & chain off, and it's only weeping oil out of the oiler. I'm gonna see if maybe it's just gunked up.. but it was working a bit over a week ago when I was cutting. I've got the shopping list as follows. 1.. oiler 2.. new clutch drum as my sprocket has some heavy wear 3.. clutch removal tool I'm now gonna throw another fly into this ointment. Ever since I've purchased the saw, the chain will not come to a complete stop without the saw stalling out seconds later. I can see of no way to adjust the clutch, and if I lower the carb idle speed it just stalls out all the time. I've learned to be cautious with the saw obviously, but my question is.. Would it make sense to order a new clutch for the saw, and would I likely encounter the same effects with a new clutch?? I figure if I'm gonna tear into it that far to replace the oiler, it would be a snap to pop a new clutch on it if it will make the saw that much safer. edit..BTW I know that Eric VW would say that I should take this opportunity to replace my Poulan with a "real" saw. But it is obviously cheaper to fix what I have. Thx all.
Also would like to add, I think we have some members that work in shops that may sell these items. If so lemme know as I'd willing to push a sale via a member vs Amazon.
I had the exact same symptoms with my saw at this year. Saw was getting hot and chain was still spinning during idle. I just had it serviced so I thought the shop might have stuffed the tune so I turned down the idle, but all that did was stall the saw. I was already out in the bush with half a ute load, so like a fool I stubbornly kept cutting to get a full load. On the last couple of cuts the saw started to smoke quite badly, so I turned it off and took the cover off to inspect. As you can see it's blued the clutch drum and melted some plastic around it. Took it back to the shop where they replaced the clutch springs, sprocket bearing and oiler which was also damaged.
Ouch.. blows that it did that much damage. You must have seriously been smokin the saw. Did they replace/repair at your cost or theirs?? Not sure that it failed due to their servicing or just chit happens. I figure mine is in the latter obviously, but I've had the saw for many years now, this is the first bit of true maintenance it's required.
Not sure who was originally at fault but I definitely made it worse. From what I can tell the root cause for the heat and spinning chain was a stretched/damaged spring on the clutch. The stringy bark that we cut has a nasty habit of binding up the chain. This plus rough operator.........well you saw the picture. Thankfully I have mates like leoht who helped me collect the last of my quota while the saw was in the shop.
Update time.. Well, I took another look at things, and checked/cleaned the output from the oiler, and also checked the vent line to the tank to make sure it's clear. In the process I pulled out the metal split sleeve that is likely there to ensure the vent tube doesn't come out. I'll have to work on getting that back in, but the vent line is clear. I am getting some oil, but nowhere near what is normal. Aside from tearing everything apart and doing a good solvent or gas cleaning, any ideas?
I had one of mine apart a few years back that was acting much the same way...pulled it apart and put it right back together, it has been fine ever since...I can't remember for the life of me what was wrong with it...seems to me it was something with the pump drive mechanism...maybe. Might be worth pulling it apart before you order anything. BTW, you can get the clutch off without special tools...just pull the spark plug out and wind some starter rope (or equivalent) down the hole so it will "jam up" the piston on the upstroke...the clutch has reverse threads. Just make sure the rope doesn't make its way into one of the cylinder ports, that could mess things up...probably wouldn't, but it could.
Chaz, I don’t think it’s quite time to throw in the towel and take the plunge on a new saw.....not yet at least, if you want to mess around with the Poulan. I wonder if MasterMech might have time to add/address your saw’s situation....
Thx guys, Eric VW you may never get another invite quite as easy as that one. I lobbed that one over the plate, and you let it slide. I am encouraged that the oil flow did increase, even if incrementally after the light cleaning I did today. I think it may be time to rip it apart a bit for a much more thorough cleaning. Only issue to me is the fact that the parts to replace/repair the saw only come to ~$40 minus a new clutch. If I spend the time to tear it that far apart, isn't it just as easy to replace with new parts that will last a good long time, vs cleaned parts that may still fail within a short amount of time. Then there is the time that the saw is down, I really don't need it to fail when I have the time to get the most done with it. We all know that is usually when things will really hit the fan. I am still considering ordering all the replacement parts, and at least will have them on hand if things go from bad to worse. brenndatomu I did check out an Utube ;-) video that showed the same, but between using channel-locks and purchasing an $8 tool, I figure I've done worse with more money in the past.
Yup I've done the rope in the cylinder before just use a screw driver or some thing to make sure the piston is in the up stroke and near the top. Use a sharpie to mark the screw driver at top dead center. Remove the clutch I just used a flat punch to spin it off. Once off clean it up and apply grease except on the shoes. My J red manual says to grease the clutch regular. My Jred also had plastic drive gears for the chain oiler and one spot was stripped almost as soon as the saw started. Once I replaced that it has worked fine. By the way Echo CS 400 has metal drive gears in the chain oil set up. Al
Unfortunately I’m not going to have much to add here. It’s not an engine problem, and it doesn’t sound like I’d get far with a hammer either. The wee Poulans were not frequent visitors to my shop as they didn’t cost much to begin with and paying me to figure one out often just didn’t add up.
One can always get something done with a hammer, just not sure it'd be helpful here. I also agree that at their price point, it doesn't make sense to pay someone a bunch to fix them. Fortunately I know enough to be successful or dangerous, depends on the project at hand usually. My motto "It'll work great when I'm done, or it'll never work again."
Thx MasterMech I appreciate the input. clemsonfor may yet show up and make his observations as well. All input is appreciated. Update.. I decided for expedience to order the parts off of Amazon. I ordered the new oiler, the clutch drum/sprocket, and I "splurged" on the clutch removal tool. I was bummed to see that the oiler won't be in on Friday, but next Monday. So be it. I realize the saw I'm working on isn't all that expensive brand new, but I've had it for about 16 years now, and although I had some issues with it in the past, once I got it running as best as "I am able", it's run well for me. I don't figure the $34 I spent today is a lot to invest in a piece of equipment that has served me well. Besides, it's black and gold (OK its yellow) who can fault me for that??
I'm going to suggest that you also order the hoses and any other bits that could be suspect also. Sometimes a soft hose will collapse when the pump is sucking on it but looks good and open when it's not.
Well , I'd advise to get another saw , fix that saw and now you have a reason to own 2 saws and no downtime Hey wait , only one saw for 16 years ? I didn't know that could be done , you a monk and been able to abstain that long , wow ! Lol
No, not a monk. Although I don't object to a bit of "sanctuary" now and again. Don't tell Eric VW but I've actually been thinking that in the long term, I may indeed need a 2 saw solution.