Has anyone ever used one of these? There's a used one near me for about half price ($300) that I'm thinking about getting. Right now I'm pulling logs with a my 30 hp tractor and a chain, but think this might be better and easier. It's designed for 15-50 hp tractors so mine should work well, hopefully better than the one in the video. I'd like to have anyone's opinion on it. Video
Heck, it's used, see if the seller will let ya give it a whirl on his tractor, or a good demo maybe. At that price though, doesn't seem unreasonable.
I think you need to be careful skidding logs that way. If the log is to heavy the front end wants to lift off the ground.
That’s about the only complaint I have about my New Holland, the brake pedals are in front of the hydrostatic pedal and I can’t seem to work all 3 at the same time.
Same on the Kubota takes some fancy footwork to press the gas with right leg and brake with left. I have never asked anybody because I thought there was something obvious I’m missing. Good to know I’m not the only one
On mine, they should put the clutch pedal on the right with the hydrostatic pedal and brakes on the left.
Personally I would choose the clutch if the front end was coming up and letting off the treadle didn’t stop it, but my clutch is on the left. I haven’t tried the treadle and brake combo yet but I can see it’s gonna take a little practice.
Looks o.k. definitely see if you can demo it. FWIW, I use the DR Log Hitch and I've been able to skid 20-24" x 20' oak logs with my Kubota L3710 without a problem. With the big ones, I like to fill up the FEL bucket for ballast. Log Hitch
I built this last year, skidding with a 33 hp kubota. I would be lost without it. When the front comes up I use hand throttle so I can steer with brakes! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I should have mentioned project started off with a trailer mover I bought from rural king Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here is a cheaper idea. We had a portable sawmill in the early 80's, pulled all our logs with a 2wd MF35. We used a drawbar that went across the lift arms, a clevis and log tongs. Pulled some over 32" like that. I will try to post links. Log Hooks + Skidding Tongs | Northern Tool + Equipment. Winch Parts + Winch Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment This way it keeps the pull point lower, thus reducing the front end lift.
I do not see the difference in safety as compared to using a chain and an implement bar. Now this is a technicality, an implement bar is a thick bar run between the lifting arms of a tractor, but most people (including myself) call it a drawbar. The drawbar is really the hitch that is solidly affixed to the chassis of the tractor. That is what we should all be hooking our chains too as it is engineered to NOT pick the front of the tractor off the ground if the tree encounters a stump, root or rock. BUT that also means dry-dragging wood which is exactly what we are trying to avoid! So we use the implement bar and chains so we can use the three point hitch to pick up the logs...or one of these implements. I have not attached anything to my true drawbar in 20 years! A winch is safer because of the butt plate. If the log hits something, the tractor's front end might rear up a bit, but cannot stand on end or flip over backwards because the butt plate jams into the ground stopping it. It is the wheelie bar of the logging world. But if using chains and the 3 point hitch, or one of these...I see no difference in safety aspects. I would buy it for $300 for sure. Even if you did decided to buy a winch in a few years (and you should, you will forever wonder how you logged without one after getting it), you can always sell this one for about the same money.
I have a FEL on my tractor so that helps keep front end down. I really have to over do it to have front tire get light. Im not sure how fast others skid but even if my tires come off the ground there's time to react. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
