How do you like the swing of that hook for setting it? I've never handled one but it looks like with the hook being parallel to the handle you lose the ability to hold it loosely and let a wrist flick spin and set it vs. a traditional pulp hook that it perpendicular to the handle.
I've got a pair of the same thing. They work well, however once rounds are covered with ice and snow, you will REALLY LIKE THEM. The new Fiskars look good too, the little lever to make them release looks intriguing.
That's not my pic but I did have one until I lost it . It's not designed to be used as a pulp hook , it's main purpose is for handling small poles that you want to move or stack so that you're not curling your wrist all the time to grab the end . When you're doing jobs like these , the less you can curl your wrists the better
The size of the tongs depend on the wood you're working with . When I'm moving 8' wood the capacity of the large tongs usually exceed my carry capacity lol But if I'm moving rounds , I like the big ones .
You can hook this under a log and lift but, forget about sticking it in anything it just don't work Edit Hurts my hand even trying to stick it into anything
The smaller local hardware stores should be able to get them for you as long as they deal with GH Factory Sales which is a wholesale only operation , they are a distributor . If you can't find them locally send me a pm and I'll see what I can do .
What I want to know is why your Stihl chainsaw thinks it's a Ryobi. Is it multiple personality disorder or the result of some bizarre chainsaw cross-breeding program?
Well , the truth is that the crackheads know that pawnshops pay a premium on Stihls and Huskys and pennies for department store brands lol
It is designed to lift the light end of a pole and be used in conjunction with the hand tongs. For that job alone that hook works OK. But a good pulp hook works better in my experience
I get them locally here , they were popular from back in the day when pulp was sold in 4' lengths . You set the length so you'd get 4' from the tip of the bar to the tip of the whip so now it's 2 lenghts and you have 8' with no need of a tape . These guys sell them as I'm sure there are others . Cutter's Choice Online - MEASURE ROD
That's how we measured 4' pulp when I was a kid in Maine. We mostly cut , logged, hauled and sold 4' balsam fir pulp and 4' pople pulp. Lots of grey birch also. All of it measured with the saw. My Dad didn't like getting poked by them occasionally so he used old V fan belts he would use 2 small bolts and bolt them to the bottom strap of the pistol grip on his McCullough. Used bright paint to mark increments for when we were cutting white cedar fencing. With the V belt we had to make sure it was laying flat on the log . Which he was adamant about. He was very big on having consistent, accurate lengths. He always tried to put out the cleanest most accurate wood possible. His previous career was as a carpenter and cabinet maker. Most of the firewood I sold here in the Copper Basin was cut 4' also. I did most of it with 460 Stihls and 372 Huskys. With bars long enough that the bar and powerheads was around 4' long and would paint a mark on the powerheads if it was short. But, I ran mostly 28, 30 + 32" bars. Sometimes I wound run a 36" bar , but didn't have enough timber big enough to warrant wearing out a 36 . One of the reasons I didn't like short bars was the measuring. I wonder if they will ship to Alaska.
