So you think my tractors sexy? The l2501

Friggin' sweet!!! That's gotta be an exciting day. Very nice tractor indeed. I have a very large soft spot in my heart for tractors haha.

 

Well I don't love my Bota L3301 delivered in Oct, Can't even say I really like it.. I guess if you have never owned any real tractors like even a Ford 9N you could love a Bota.

Mine has scared me so much it is a good thing I don't loose years off my life or I would be dead.

This is one time I wish I would have told the banker **ll no and bought what I reall wanted. A real tractor with the front loader like I was a wanting.




Would have saved $11,000 too.


Al

 

That Allis is definitely a real tractor. I agree. I'm all about the American Muscle Tractors. Them Kubotas are nice indeed, and very popular, but Ill keep my 1961 Oliver.

 

Big difference when you go from a real tractor to a cut. I sold a Case DI with a powerloader to get my 3005 just because of wanting better maneuverability. I got that plus the excitement of being on 2 wheels more than once. 10 years though and I haven't dumped it yet....

 

Can't stand to see buckets full of water...pet peeve I guess.

 

I am not the seller or I would have had that bucket tilted.

"the excitement of being on 2 wheels more than once"

Me too and why my seat has a big pleat in the middle from puker power.
Quickly learned not to raise the bucket over 3 feet with a load in it except snow when moving and even then with the snow best to make sure there is not one marble you will run over on one side.

Can't go to a tractor salvage yard to buy wheel weights because they will not fit inside the wheel dish. Beet Juice makes no difference for mine. If you put a balast box on the back might just as wewll have a pre 1960 tractor as the 3 pt is useless with a balast box mounted.

Al

 

Loader work requires ballast, 3 pt hitch work does not.... what's the problem?

 

Pucker power is what I used when I was handed the bill for the "just get me the full set"of oem wheel weights I ordered. I asked about used ones and was told "they don't exist any used one's are repainted and sold as new"

 

3 point work does in fact require assessment of front ballast.

 

trail twister, we gave you suggestions on how to operate your tractor in another thread and gave you ideas on what to do to make it safer(ballast and wheel spacers or R4 tires). You can blame the tractor when it is not being used properly. Any tractor doing work with a front end loader requires a ballast on the rear. Skip loaders, fork lifts and cranes all require a ballast too.

 

I have R1 tires and not all tractors require rear ballast to be safe with a front loader.
My dad for years had a 1951 Ford 8N that only required some wheel weights for rear ballast. Didn't require a thing to feel safe with a bucket load of sand on a down hill. The 1964 Ford 2000 with the supieor loader also only need some wheel weights for ballast when going down a hill with a load of sand.

But if you campair the wheel width space on those to a L3301 you will see the Bota leaves a lot to desire.

And that is what makes the better tractor to me the Allis 175 it is wider and more stable with a bucket load of sand.

I did add ballast and make the 3 point useless on the 3301 but still scares the chit out of me unless I back down a hill draging the bucket. tires have beet juice and the cast wheel weighs 385 pounds.





Al

 

Wheel weights are a form of ballast. Those old tractors did not lift much for their size so they could get by with less ballast.

I suggested wheel spacers before since you have R1 tires. R4 tires are better for tractors with a loader.

A ballast box is not the only form of ballast for the 3 point hitch. A good heavy scraper blade or box blade would do the trick also.

 

8N lifts 800lbs with Paulson loader. Look at how small the bucket is in comparison to today's tractors.

Paulson Lightweight Loader for N Tractors - ad brochure

 

None of the above tractors have small buckets. None of them need wheel spacers to make them stable. All they need to be good working tractors is some wheel weights you can buy at any tractor salvage yard for a resonable price, no special ones that cost $1000 for 500 pounds.

I have read between the lines and you have never worked a real tractor or a sub compact on any thing other than table top land.

Al

 

All of those tractors require ballast.

Here is a manual for an old Massey ferguson.

Davis Loader 99-101-102 - Owner's Manual


Maintenance - Operation (2 pages)
#6 under operation- Do not permit the loaded bucket to remain in the elevated position any long than necessary.

#1 under tips for easier operation- Have sufficient weight on the rear of the tractor for traction.
What the manual does not say, you need weight to hold the back down, to have traction.

I've used a few tractors.








Hills are all we have here.

 

You have to realize just the rear end assembly’s on those older tractors weigh more than most of the lawn mowers you guys are calling tractors. Cast steel housings, cast iron hubs, gear assembly’s and 30 or 40 gallons of hydraulic/gear oil adds up. Just the 3 point assembly alone with no attachments will weigh four or five hundred pounds.

 

Exactly. If you start out with a little tractor it's not so bad. But when you are experienced with a real tractor the simple habits you developed with no problems can get you into trouble when you do them on a cut.

 

I havnt had it out since the first day, been raining and muddy. Will get some pics and post them up the next time i have er out!

 

Hey Al,
Im guessing 385 lbs is way under the recommended ballast for that tractor. I bet they recommend 1100 lbs or so. Good luck, hope the tractor works out for you.