cast iron fry pan myths

Harbor Freight sells a 2/6 and a 2/10/50 manual charger. They are junk, but cheap when on sale. The current flow is limited by the resistance of the system which you can control with the electrolyte concentration. If you keep the charger from running full out they hold up better, so I would suggest keeping the solution dilute enough so the needle isn’t pegged when in 10 amp mode. It will take a little longer than pumping the full 10 amps, but this isn’t a process you should use it you are in a rush anyway. Don’t even try the 50 amp mode on these things as I can assure you from experience (multiple times) it can’t deliver that for more than a few seconds. The smaller 2/6 amp model is cheaper and in my limited experience a bit more robust but I don’t see them on sale as often.

 

There is always that guy who thinks if one cup is good, 10 cups is more gooder! Those Chinese Harbor Freight chargers will burn up if you use the 50 amp mode to try and jump a small lawn tractor, and they don’t last all that long if you ask them to work hard at 10 amps charging dead boat or truck batteries. So, if someone wants to try one for an electrolysis tank, don’t go dumping too much soda and or lye in the tank, and if you do, don’t complain when your bargain charger burns up.

 

Is the soda required to make this work, or does it make it work better? Is there any other product to add to the water that works? I don't think we have washing soda kicking around.

 

You need SOMETHING in the water to make it conduct the electricity. The most common ones for something like this are sodium carbonate (washing soda, not bicarbonate which is baking soda) and sodium hydroxide aka lye. The soda is the safer choice and is what most people use for rust removal for all sorts of metal objects.

I haven’t used lye yet but I may try it on a few pans next time I acquire some that are extra nasty because it has the advantage of eating away grease and old seasoning at the same time the electrolysis removes the rust. Research safety factors for working with lye before you start playing with it if you go this route.

There are a bunch of other salts (not sodium chloride salt!) that can be used but I don’t think any of them are better/safer/more cost effective than washing soda. For example, plain sodium chloride salt might work, but also give off deadly chlorine gas which is not ideal.

 

I'll probably go on a search for washing soda in the event I find a decent pan.

Turns out there's a reason it's hard to find cast at one of the local thrift stores. My gal was in the biggest thrift store, having a look and asked about cast iron pans. The lady who sorts the stuff, says there's a guy in there every day, sometimes 2-3 times, and he buys up most of it to sell at flea markets or ebay. He was waiting around there the same time my gal was.

 

My answers aren’t for you or anybody else who already has a setup that works. They are for the people asking questions and looking to get started.

As for non-Chinese chargers, I don’t think it will be easy to find a new on the shelf high quality American made manual charger these days. No matter what the brand, and even if it says “assembled in the USA” it probably has imported parts on the inside. Certainly the cheap HF or Walmart models are all imported. They work fine for a while, longer if you don’t push them hard in my experience.

 

May just skip electrolysis and stick with plastic media blasting....i mean, it's free for me. I Still have a feeling though a heavily rusted pan won't clean up with the media.

Went to another antique mall today after work and struck out. Only found a few older pans which were nothing special and ridiculously priced. A #4 Or #5 small logo Griswold, clearly painted black as you could see obvious brush strokes priced at $60.

 

Ok fellas. I have to bring this to the pros here.
Mrs TD had this one when we met. So 30 years.
It's unmarked . Only 2 clues to help ID.
Fire ring at edge and a (light) bottom gate mark. This is an absolutely beautiful skillet. Light weight for its size. Super smooth bottom. About 12" cooking surface, 2 pour spouts. A triangle shape where the handle meets the side.
What say you, FHC'ers?

 

Looks like one of those super dangerous imports. I would be happy to take it off your hands and dispose of it properly.

 

Thanks, Matt!





About the only thing that makes it really interesting is the gate mark as I understand that was only done on the very early skillets and the fire ring as that was early also.

 

Not sure but it looks sweet and gate marks suggest age.

 

That's what we've been doing, for many years.