Englander NC30 deal .....ordered

Hmm, when my primary is "closed" it is way further back into the stove than flush with the air lip. I usually only have the air "close" when it is burning hard. But I don't like to burn it that way over night as I don't get a complete burn at times.

 

Really wish I knew what the flue temps are.
Outside of the dblwl is 235° about a foot up, with the stove settled in at 600°. I'm gonna' guess at least 350° inside.
No running off to 7-750 or higher on this load of Maple.
Nothing but a heat sig. outside, and rolling flame above the wood.
Still don't like the doghouse blowing air down the middle, chewing through the wood. I'll adjust.
I always do.

 

I don't bother. When it's running hot, I measure the surface temps of the pipe just to make sure things aren't freaking out. But, that's it.

Inside pipe temps will be higher than that if your double wall is 235.

Most non-cat stoves work this way. The 30 is not different. I'm not saying you shouldn't mess with it. Just letting you know it is not unique to the 30.

 

Brain fart. Has to be much higher.
I have a probe thermo on the way. Gauges make me happy. I'm somewhat OCD.
I tried putting magnets over about 90% of the doghouse holes, but I took 'em off this morning. I need to learn the stove as is before messing with it too much that way.

 

Had one split e/w in the back for last nights load, and most of it was still there this morning. I had the primary almost closed.

 

Yep, the back will do that.

 

Nope, no side shields.

 

Coming up on 3 hours for this Maple load, and stove is down to 450......only because I opened the air a little. Still getting some floating flames.
This stove seems to hold temp just on coals for a while, but when I need 500° or more, we'll see what happens.
Outside temp is right around freezing.
I don't have much experience with the stove yet, but it would seem this stove would be awesome with a stat. to adjust the air later in the burn.
Dawned on me that some other 30 owners use large splits and get nice long burns. I need larger splits if this is true.
Most of these Maple pieces were no bigger than maybe 5" on the big side.

 

Try packing the stove tight e/w. I have gotten the same type of burn from a tightly packed e/w burn as I have had from huge splits running n/s

Also, burn times get a little weird for me when I don't run it hot. At times it almost seems like whether the stove tops out at 550 or 750, it stays above 400 for just as long. I can't say that is a scientific fact, but it really seems like it happens often.

 

My primary air spring handle is screwed on until the rod is just about to poke out the other end. I routinely run the stove with it further in than flush with the ash lip. My sweet spot is actually just ever so slightly out from fully closed, with the pipe damper fully closed, seems to like it there no matter how big the load is, just load less when it's warmer out. When it's around 10* or lower out ill just load it full and pull it out maybe another 1/4 to 1/2inch from the sweet spot. I agree that a t-stat would help for later in the burn, if its cold out, when things are coaled over I'll open the air all the way, and keep the pipe damper closed.

 

Thanks Dave.
I no longer have a damper in the exhaust path. This stove doesn't seem to need it, but it hasn't been very cold since I put it in on Tuesday, so.........
I'm still finding the spots for the primary air.
It took me a couple years, at least, after I got the Ashley's air leaks fixed, to relearn how to run the stove. The basics were easy, but the finer points took a lot longer.
So many variables.
BBar, I'll give the e/w load a shot at some point. I actually have already, but it was a fairly small load. The back pieces didn't burn well with the air turned down.
I'm keeping an open mind.

 

Thanks Ray.
Still gettin' the hang of it.
Might take a few years.

 

I'm sure I could get it figured out by myself, but with a place like this, with like minded people to rely on, it's easier.
Gooder.

 

Sounds like you're wading through well and having some fun doing it.

 

It's interesting, to say the least.
It's easy enough to run, but getting it to run well is what I'm after.
Just filled it for the night with 3 Oak rounds, and 6 gooder sized Maple splits. Couldn't get any more in there w/o banging up the tubes.

 

It's going to get pretty cool here the in a couple days you should be able to test her out good

 

I've never run a tube stove but from posts I've read, as long as you don't space it and get too much of the load burning, it should stay under control nicely.
Well, is it too early to say how much wood you're saving?

He didn't say we had dry wood for ya. This is Indiana, it's too humid here to get any wood dry.

 

Oh, you Indiana guys are such...such...Indiana givers.
Too early to give a good answer on the wood saving thing, but it looks promising.
I tend to think long term. If I used just 4-5 splits less/day, that's almost 1/3 cord/month. Do the math for 7.5-8 months.
I'd be very happy to drop use by 1/3, which would be from 5 cord to just over 3. This year doesn't count.
Put a load of Maple in at about 10:15 this morning. Put in a couple splits of pine to tide me over at about 9:30 tonight.
Outside temps hovered around freezing most of the day, and sunny, so a real tough call. We get a lot of solar gain through the west windows in the afternoon too. House was up to 75 for quite a while.
Should get cold tonight, then again Saturday and Sunday nights, even colder, like HDR said.
Testing, testing.