Potential problem with new stove

Like what info?

I have two thermometers for this exact reason - both read the same.
Thermometers placement is on the top of the stove 6" in front of the stack (where Manu. Says it should be)
Laser temp guage reads exactly as thermometers.
Another thermometer is on the stack 6" up from the stove - per Manu.
The air isn't closed because I'm not accustomed to the stove?? No idea what that means
I'm convinced there is an issue when I have now 900 degree stove temps.

 

Yes. It's all the way down or off. It can't go any lower. It couldn't be a simpler operation. One lever. Up is full on air, down is, well, all the way down.

 

No ash pan
Stove is Iron Strike Grandview 230
Door test was a paper test

 

Just a fan inside a mounting box, nothing more. No kit. Fan as auto mode or manual mode - thermostats may be reason for higher cost

 

What are the procedures for a smoke test?

 

I get that you're pizzed over the situation.

You ASKED for peoples opinions, they've given what they could under the given circumstances, and asked for more information in order for them to give better advice and information.

Not sure what you want everyone to do, but it seems you're attacking the wrong people.

If you don't like the advice given, just don't act on that advice. At least people here are trying to help you resolve the issues you have with the stove.

Or you could just by a f%%in fan.

Chaz

 

Getting pizzed? Attacking people?????????????? Just answering question thrown at me the best I can. Perhaps the sensitivity meter needs adjusting. Does FHC make a branded sensitivity meter?

Reiterating again what my peeve is over the fan issue (or f%%in fan as you put it). Perhaps there is an issue with stove and it's not excessive draft. What if? Now, instead of a manufacturor exploring their possible mistake, they immediately come out with "give us more money and buy a fan". So the consumer is expected to once again pony up...after spending $25000. That's what bothers me and as a consumer, it should bother you also. Maybe the company should have come first with - "look at this for us", "take the side panel off and look here", "take a picture for us", "oh geez, sorry your having an issue, lets see what we can do to resolve".....instead, "give us $350 more and we'll see what that does first". BS. Sorry you dont get it, maybe it's beyond some people to expect more from a company.

Hope you have a better night.

 

^^^^^nope!^^^^^

 

Is there any way you can get the draft tested? I had a quick look online, and in your manual it calls for .04-.08 draft.

I do understand the point you're making, that a stove shouldn't be headed for a nuclear melt down with the air throttled right back, or without a fan.

 

Thought of that also, but after pulling the heat shields off, I really can't get at anything. All visible welds seems to full and intact, but again, can't really see a whole lot from the outside. Pulled fire bricks after first week and inspected everything from inside, but only see what I can see. Trying what I know.

 

That's next. As one suggested, I will by the unit and see what it reads. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isnt a draft a draft no matter if the air is coming from a source it should or shouldnt be? In other words, if it reads excessive, who's to say where the origin is? By immediately throwing a fan at the issue, maybe I'm covering up a larger problem. I'd rather find the source and fix it properly.

 

Good point, but at least you can take that fact to the dealer, and tell them it's overdrafting.

 

Very good point.

 

There is no primary and secondary air control. It's only one air control...so I'm assuming you are referring to that as primary.

 

What size is your vent? Does it start out as 6" and stay that way for it's entirety or is there a short run of pipe that leads into a larger lined masonry? If your stove starts out with a 6" vent collar on it, it is designed to stay that way for the entirety of the vent length. I have a little stove (6") that ties into a masonry chimney that leads through2 1/2 stories of height. the wood was burning way too fast until I installed a key damper into the single wall vent pipe leading to the masonry thimble. Problem solved. That is exactly the design of this piece of venting.

What type of temps do you have outside? Just where is it that you are located from? I may have asked you in the past but do not remember. I'll bet that there are other members in your area that can/could at the very least recommend other insurance companies.
The more info you share, the better learned we become.

As far as the insurance co goes, there are times that you have t give them an education, too. Went through this process myself about 7 or so years ago with the end result of finally getting a manufacturers letter to include with my info given to the company that finally satisfied them.

What is the hottest the stove has been to so far? Is there an inlet for an OAK hookup on the stove that can be partially covered?

I keep leaning towards a key damper but for whatever reason, you do not seem willing to install it. They run around $6...why not try it for grins and giggles? If you're baby sitting the stove as much as you say, what could possibly be the downside of such a try?

I guess the last fix would be to return the stove to the dealer you bought it from. They are already aware there is a problem and would be willing to help you out, hopefully.

 

This describes my setup with an nc30, I don't feel I can run the stove without a damper.

Testing the draft seems like a good idea, although if you find the draft is too much, there is not much you can do besides a key damper...maybe a couple of 90s back to back but that would look pretty stupid.

I would try a key damper, even if only temporarily and see if that solves the problem.

 

6" vent
Starts out 6" and stays 6" all the way through the class A through the roof
Removed existing 8" pipe / system from previous Vermint Castings system, per Manu installation instructions
No lined masonry chimney - class A through log home roof
Temps outside have ranged from -7 to 28 degrees
Located in northern IL
not every Ins company will insure a log home, choices are limited
Offering all of the info that I'm being asked, unless I missed a question
Argued with 2 different adjusters and Corp several years ago about the use of a wood stove
Stove has been 900 degree surface and flu temps - once
There is an OAK hookup and it's been checked - I will check it again
I have no reason to lie about what I'm doing and not doing - not sure why the inference
Sales rep states he would take it back and bring it to his rep (still not IS) and they would go through the stove and see if they see an issue. Not a favorable option for me at this point - a sales rep and his rep are not the manufacturor.

To your last point about a $6 damper - Ins Co has performed 3 inspections in 12 years - physically have come out and inspected the home. Picky to say the least. They had me replace a 8" section of cedar skirt board on my home as they said it wasn't physically sound enough to perform its intended function. I just laughed and replaced it. The inspector flipped out when he walked into the shop where a cheap Volgozang stove was. He noted a clearance measurement that was 1/4" from code. Told me my policy was going to be suspended until I make the proper adjustment. I tapped the stove over the 1/4" he needed with my foot while he stood there. I could go on about other things, but you get the point. It's a $390,000 log home, well maintained and extremely well kept - I don't live in a dump.

Maybe a temporary damper will be installed to see what it does - it will not be a key damper but a "in stack" damper section (this way I can take it out and not have holes dried in my extension pipe that will look like garbage).

 

Have you physically eyeballed the air lever is functioning correctly? Obviously it moves open and closed, but I mean have you seen the plate that the air lever is hooked to (in some fashion)?

Where does the OAK go into your stove? Is there a shroud or housing with screws or bolts? Can it be removed? What do you see if you remove it?

 

My chimney same height my draft is measured at 50 Pascal in June warm weather. I would check that out, meaning your draft.

 

If your stove pipe has an adjustable section you can buy a damper installed in a short section of stove pipe and stick it in. If not, get a damper and a new section of pipe that you can swap out with one in your current setup.

Either way, they can be installed or removed in minutes when there is no fire in the stove. There is no need for it to be there when the insurance inspector comes every 3-4 years if you are so worried about it. When they call to setup an appointment, remove the damper. When they leave, stick it back in.