Going to install a old wood stove in my shop that will run right through the rafters to outside, no attic. Not super formilur with piping rules. Biggest question is when do you start the insulated double chimney pipe? As soon as you get to the support box on the rafter is what I'm understanding. Also can you have normal insulation touching the double chimney pipe? Will upload pictures later
Old L.P. furnace and chimney. Also the stove will be too close to the wall so that's another problem.
I am not familiar with all of that but I am sure someone will be along that will be able to tell you exactly how to do hook everything up in a safe manner! Good luck with your setup!
Yes start the insulated pipe at the ceiling support box. Don’t let it touch the insulation buy or make a attic insulation shield to maintain air space around chimney.
Thanks, never thought all that pipe and chimney pipe would add up so much. Do you think heat shields would help with being too close to the wall? Or should I add elbows to keep it as far away as possible?
From what I understand different brands and models of stoves have different clearances from the wall as well as height required for the pipe. Any identifying markings on your stove? IMHO (I'm no expert by any means but I do err on the side of caution) I would absolutely put noncombustable shields on the walls in addition to adding a couple 45* elbows to get it further away from the walls, and every elbow adds another several inches of height requirements. No doubt all the pieces and parts of the venting get pricey!! We had to buy 2 attic kits (long story, we have one roof ontop of another here at different pitches) and brackets for the pipe etc. Not sure about the wind there but it could be worth your time to put a damper in too with the new venting. Someone here recently picked up an attic kit off craigslist and others have done the same with used pipe.
What do you mean every elbow adds to the height requirements? As for the stove requirements, I have no clue since the model number is chipped off so I have no clue what it even is. What would you suggest for a non combustible shield? I live in east sd so it gets damm windy often lol.
Start here. A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood - Installation Rules For Flue Pipes This will give you the basic idea to start and follow through, there are other great links to assist you. You're biggest concern is "air gaps" and combustable distances.
Selkirk is out of Canada and are a very good source for instruction, here's one of their booklets. http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/p...Wall-Stove-Pipe-Installation-Instructions.pdf
And, "Please" what ever you do, don't use the galvanized pipe you have in the picture, zinc poisoning is "Nasty" and could be deadly.
I would try to keep your flue as straight as possible. This will keep your draft strong and make it a lot easier to clean. You can reduce your clearance requirements by adding heat shields. Steel roofing works well, but anything 24G or thicker can be used. Just make sure you leave an air gap on the bottom and between the shield and the wall so it can convect and cool. If you don't know the clearance requirements for your particular stove, then you have to go to default clearance for any stove, which is 36" without any shielding, 18" with shielding.
Thanks for the links! So you would suggest not having elbows? I know they are not good but I'm trying to get away from the wall. I wish the hole was in a different spot. That was all old stuff that was in the garage, just moved here this fall.
I planned on getting the half double smoke pipe to put along the wall on the back side of pipe and then something behind the stove. But I'm not totally sure.
Use 45 degree bends if possible instead of 90s. The more angle, the more draft is reduced. If it was me, I'd cut a new hole in roof for the pipe, and use a straight shot of pipe. That'll make cleaning it easier. Any bends and you get to dissassemble your pipe to clean it every year.
X3! I like the straight up through the roof in new hole too! Shield, metal like Luke suggested, there was a huge blaze orange road construction sign here behind a stove when we bought the place , we had 2 x 6 stud frame with cement board and tile previously (not that a work shop needs tile lol). Our old pre-epa (Schrader in my signature) had poor air control and the wind would suck a ton of heat up the pipe and also burn the logs twice as fast wasting wood, worth it to slip one of these in Shop IMPERIAL 8-in Black Steel Stove Pipe Stove Damper at Lowes.com , you can tilt it when its windy to save heat and wood. Installation Type #1 / Figure A in weldrdave's link http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/p...Wall-Stove-Pipe-Installation-Instructions.pdf , and you can choose clearance for heat shield or not per Luke's post 2 45*'s like I suggested in pic below would be a pain to sweep the chimney (had them at my previous home, did the first 10' from roof, then had to come inside and do the remaining few feet below the elbow from inside the stove. Like they mentioned, the angles reduce draft, its something like you need to go 8" higher up top to make up for the reduced draft for every 45* (sorry I don't remember the actual calculation) but if you go straight up and out in new hole without any angles it wouldn't matter anyway. I'm excited to see how this turns out for you! Pic of stove?
Yeah I have been toying with the idea of making a new hole. Just makes me nervous thinking about cutting a hole in the roof is all. Also don't want the stove in the way either, but it's probably the safest thing to do too. I'll have to get a picture of the stove later today! I do have this though.
Do you know if this is a gasification thing? opposed to a just a wood stove? http://store.dakacorp.com/v/vspfiles/documents/modelnos101c201c301c401c.pdf
