Harman p43 5 blink status light

hey guys I know what the 5 blink light means but the thing is there was no pellets in the burn pot and there was no way the igniter could light anything if there wasn’t anything there. Seems like the auger never pushed the pellets up. I turned it to off and turned it back on and it seems to be acting normal. I have have a hopper of pellets so does anyone know what the problem could be?

 

Possible auger motor weak,possible jam,but,more than likely the fines box and slider plate need cleaned,empty hopper fully to do this.

 

The other thing is it finally lit but it’s pushing pellets over partially burned. I really think I have some kind of air flow problem. Is it hard to do the auger?

 

um,no,but you have thrown another iron in the fire,multiple problems.now sounds like you have an airflow problem(as you sait,which would keep the auger from turning,sometimes),check your air intake for blockage,and clean the stove and the "complete" flue.

 

I’m thinking I have a problem with the burn pot and BurnPot gasket. On the back wall of my stove the top bolt on the left side has a really weird burn mark around it that just started happening within the past couple of months. The stove is like 6 years old but

 

rare for a harman,but can happen,but,even if the burn pot gasket was/is going out,the internal stove would still see enough vacuum to activate the auger.I recommend you do some testing and research

 

heres another idea......possible pellet bridge in the hopper. The pellets can lock together and bridge, forming a cavity in the hopper....where you might now see it. Then you wake up to the ole 5 blink. Then you check for pellets...yep, pellets in the hopper....slam top. Or, you open the door, look inside.....no pellets in burnpot? Slam front door closed. Pellet cavity falls in upon itself, and on a reset, the stove will fire and run. This can also happen with excessive fines (ratholing), and maybe a small chunk o'pellets, which temporarily obstructed the opening to the slide plate.

 

I didn’t think of that. That was the first time that ever happened. Remember on the one post I put before about the warp at the back of the stove? You said to order 2 burn pot gaskets? Now those nuts that hold the burn pot on is there any easy way to get them off? I don’t want to snap the studs. I’m sure with all the heating and cooling they have to be on there pretty good. Any suggestions on the easiest way to get them off?

 

Ive never had an issue.....I use a socket and swivel.....any I've had off come off pretty easily...and that's a bit more than a few

 

Any place you recommend to buy parts from?

 

your local friendly Harman dealer

 

Can you scrape off the weird burn mark, if so it might be creosote building up in that area. My Accentra does that too, sometime you can see a flame protruding in that area.

 

But why would the flame be protruding from that area if the flame tamer is over it?

 

most likely because your flame guide isnt seated all the way to the rear of the burnpot, OR, your flame guide is warped and eroded on the backside. You had stated before that the stove was about 6 years old? Most flame guides are good for 2-3 years. if you've never replaced it, its probably a good idea. Where? See your local friendly Harman dealer!

 

bridging - yup... seen it. I shove my scraper into the pellets to 'agitate' the bottom and clear the bridge. less fines and hard shell pellets help prevent the problem

 

I find it interesting that in all the time I burned a pellet stove (2 completely different models & manufacturers), and countless different brands of pellets, I NEVER had a bridging problem, and they were not what you would consider high-end stoves.

 

Thats good, I guess, but youre only talking about a couple stoves.....we are dealing with thousands, quite literally.

 

I've seen bridging in two different scenarios. The first is pellets with a very tacky surface, caused by a lot of resin in them - pine pellets especially. The other is pellets with excessive (and I mean REALLY excessive) fines in them will cause it too. I will open the hopper lid and see a "wall of fines" so to speak forming around the slide plate entrance. Seen lots of recommendations on how to solve the bridging and pellets slide easier by using wax paper, car wax, etc. but in my experience those things would not help the kind of bridging I have seen, because the pellets and fines are really sticking to each other, no so much to the hopper walls.

 

I ran a ton of Lignetics softwood through the Englander 10-cpm, never an issue.

 

Same here; I've burned those too, and did not have any issues with them.