Fahrenheit Technologies Endurance 50F Information

Oh-oh, my beefed up exhaust motor is starting to be noisy. It's making a up/down frequency rumbling. I shut the furnace to inspect and found the inner bearing is starting to be sloppy, side to side movement. Motor is about three years old and was wondering if I can change only the bearing? My Fasco motor isn't too far away if the Gleason/Avery 1.75A motor decides to call it quits. Can the longer shaft cause premature bearing failure due to heat?

 

these guys!

 

Ivanhoe - it's not an air issue...my damper is barely hanging on the set screw (as closed as you can get using the screw) and it's still producing a very white flame. Need to get a second temp gage and maybe try some other pellets. My machine is 8+ years old and I've had it since new...and even new it wouldn't keep my house at desired temp when going into single digits...

Before my many mods...it would have a pretty lazy flame and need weekly cleanings...now that it burns very efficiently...I can go 3 weeks without touching it and it burns consistently well. What gets me is that the efficiency I've worked hard to achieve is not translating into usable heat...something's cooky around here

I've had many conversations with Mark and he digs my 1/4" SS pot...which by the way is showing ZERO signs of fatigue!!!!!!!

To top off my misery...my igniter gave out...after my thorough cleaning none the less

 

My high output fan/motor from Don also gets noisy...couple drops of his magic oil quiets it right up...but bearing play is a sign of death...a longer shaft will cause more stress on the bearing as it becomes a powerful lever...but not in a good way...

 

This summer I'm going to replace the old trunkline on the old side of my house,and swap out the distribution ducts so everything is the same size. Maybe that will help in allowing my furnace to build more heat.

 

If you give Matt at Farenheit a call he will give ya any info ya want.

 

I've been lubricating my auger brass bushing about 5 times this season and noticed a pile of fines seeping through. It's not spinning so that is good sign.
Might change my exhaust motor when I do my cleaning this weekend

 

You going to upgrade the exhaust motor or go stock? I did a test with greenway solid oak pellets over the last four and a half days, They are far better then Pro Pellets.They burn way cleaner,i get around 5* more on average out of them,and used 1/4 to third bag less a day. Now i want to get some more and do a magic mix and see what happens! I think the when they make pro pellets they are mixing biomass material other than wood in there mix,The reason I say this is because of the soot and smoke,the exhaust smells like Sunday newspapers burning. With the greenways, hardly any soot,exhaust doest stink,smells like a wood fire...imagine that!

 

The last few cold nights I tried mixing the LGs and DFs...I think they were a bit on the damp side when I tried them earlier as they burnt far better this time around...the mix was getting me about 140 degrees consistently...not a huge boost over the LGs alone but enough to keep the house at my desired temp all night...it was a light mix of the DFs...so now that I know they are burning better I could probably increase the ratio and get a bit more out of it...

 

Go back to stock(Fasco), not forking money out for a short live motor
I see everyone is gaining on temps heading in the right direction

 

I spoke with my dealer yesterday because i have to remove the exhaust manifold on my stove and replace gasket and redo the crimps on the motor(noisy).
He told me that they replace the exhaust motors with a st criox motor and it come with a larger impeller,says they work great.If your interested I'm sure I can get you the part #.

 

That's turn of events on their part
I wonder what the reasoning is behind this
A part # would be nice but the actual motor and impeller #'s would be more descriptive to compare apples to apples

 

LBT and pot cleaning and change of exhaust motor with the big impeller. Lacrete's in the hopper. Pics of burn pot deterioration

 

damm! Sorry I haven't gotten you that part # info yet.wow that pot got hot!

 

That's why I throttle back the heat setting to #4 and recently to #3 with the recent mild weather. You could smell the heat that furnace was putting out

 

And that's why after 8 years dealing with that crap I built my own damm pot!!!!!!! My 1/4" SS pot is showing zero signs of heat stress...additionally, that door pic is due to the OEM design and the need to pull, really hard, on that door to get a decent (well...kinda) seal...I ELIMINATED that nonsense by modifying the frame...I have superior airflow without any air moving through the door, so the door (just a slab of 1/4" SS really) is lightly closed only (just to keep the pellets in the pot). When you're ready for a lifetime pot, let me know...

Why should you have to reduce the heat level??? I need every BTU it puts out to heat my home...the OEM components should survive the 50,000 BTU claim...in my experience, they can't...

 

Why wouldn't it make sense to lower heat levels if you can. You save fuel and less stress on the pot assembly. My furnace is 6 going on 7 years and original parts. I bought backup pot parts for the future.

 

I tried to see if the reduce heat level would work and it did
Now if it gets crazy Canuck cold, I put some corn in the mix
And if it can't keep up then up the heat level or take out the better pellets
Sign of wear is showing on the pusher and the upper secondary burn pot(warping it but isn't S/S)
The primary burn pot is showing no increase wear yet

 

Ivanhoe - the V on the pot usually starts to fail where the igniter is...at least on mine...then it webs out...the other side holds out better...but will fail eventually...

Jay Z - because I, and I'm sure others as well, need it to run on level 5 to keep larger homes comfortable on really cold nights...I had 3 straight weeks of running on level 5 (sub-zero temps)...the components should be able to handle the units intended purpose...that's what I paid for that's what I expect...unfortunately, at least with the V3 pots, that's just not the case for the OEM units. Running on a lover heat level means less BTU's...less BTU's means I can't keep my family comfortable...not going to happen. I re-engineered the thing and I can run on level 5, 24/7...no warping, no cracking, no jamming...nothing! I, personally, IMHO, don't think reducing the heat and buying expensive spares that will also fail is the answer...but that's just me...

 

Maximus... My house was built in 1863 and is 2,200 sq ft. Talk about heating a corncrib. I made improvements to all windows and doors. I also live high on a hill in farm country WI. I have a chart for the last four years of the installation and helps me set the levels based on outside tempatures and wind. Guess I have been lucky to keep it at upper 60's even with -12 degree temps we get in WI. As far as backup parts it's a cheap ROI if I only spend 100.00 per year on parts.