Exactly! I need some lights! Them headlights don't work when using the loader! Looks like some lights on the canopy would work well.
My dealer said to be sure to match the additional lights to the alternator capacity. Probably less of an issue with today’s LEDs.
Agree for sure! There is a few inches in between. So far so good, and i won't try the hill until I'm more experienced and have chains and more ballast. I was able to cut right through a 5 ft pile of snow to open the back of the house back up.
I believe the chassis is 1 step up with the 50 series. I felt the L series was a little to much, this is what i originally was looking at, but the B50 series has beefier loader, so it worked out well having the B2650 option.
Unbelievable! Once i learned the loader controls, it was like butter (I ran a fork lift for years!!) I love the 1/4 function (curl/lift at the same time)
In the coming weeks ill research some lights. LED likely. I have some open spaces on the dash for a few switches. Probably 2 on the front & 2 on the back.
It’s up to you. Engine oil is engine oil and there is nothing special about the OEM brands. Deere did a nice job prior to the synthetic revolution but I wouldn’t use anybody’s Dino juice over a quality synthetic. And heavier viscosity isn’t necessarily better either. If your manual says you can run 15W40, 10W40, or 5W40, I’d go with the 5W. Most engine wear occurs on cold starts and that’s especially true for diesels, especially mechanically injected small diesels. Cold pump-ability of the oil matters! Read up on on whatever the hydraulic fluid spec is. You won’t likely go through hydraulic fluid fast enough to make cost matter so run whatever you think is best. Kubota Super UDT was was the recommendation back when I was wrenching on ‘em but I think they have progressed at least one generation since. And I did not see anything special about the UDT fluids other than the price. There really is no magic in hydraulic fluid either, it’s about proper viscosity and fluid compatibility with the materials in your trans. Most tractors have wet brakes and PTO clutches so Tractor Transmission oils are recommended over straight-up hydraulic oil’s as the TTOs will have friction modifiers to keep your PTO clutch from slipping and your brakes grabbing. If your tractor runs gear oil in the front axle, I’m a big fan of AMSOIL Severe Gear. Stuff just plain excels in high-load or abusive applications. Get yourself some high (5+%) moly content grease for all those loader pins too. Stuff is sold at tractor supply and auto parts stores, usually labeled for heavy chassis or construction earthmoving equipment. You’re looking for something with 5% molybdenum disulfide or better. It’s always a dark gray to black color and very tacky. You’re on your own for blinker fluid though.
yes Brian stay with OEM fluids at least til your out of warranty please! I know company you bought from and their services department is top notch as well as KTAC insurance. Better safe than sorry though, it' a investment. Oops Just saw MasterMech response, I wouldon't still keep OEM til out of warranty..
Thanks for the great info guys! I need to review the manual. I have no idea what blinker fluids are? I think i read a joke somewhere about that
Do you have the float ability? I use that a lot for snow removal. (Push forward as if to lower the loader, and then push even further forward, and mine bumps and stays in the float position. Then you just modify the tip/level of the bucket to keep at least some of the lawn where it belongs. )
You likely have some extra wires back around the roll bar. My light has a rubberized toggle switch on the light, and its lead wires plugged right into some extra wires that came in the factory harness.
Yes, i did use the float feature cleaning up leftovers from a few huge piles of snow. Im pretty sure there is a speed dump feature as well, i need to figure that out Learning the controls, yes, we now have a few holes and bare spots!
I did see some. I wonder if these are it under the right rear fender in front of the pictured data plate.
Flick the switches with a multimeter on there and see what happens. 120 watts worth of LED light bars should be enough to give you a sunburn.