Old Blaze King Stove - Add Baffle?

My tubes go up to the top front of stove. Originally had a blower that blew in down out bottom front than out the 2 vents at the top. Not sure of the year of the stove. When I get home I will take a pic of inlet and outlet.

 

that's what I was thinking. the tubes are a heavy metal the same as the stove. I think it will help more than anything. will baffles lead to any problems with more creosote buildup in the pipe? I clean it about every 2 months and it has never been to the point were I said man I really needed to clean that thing. its always just been a little bit of buildup.

 

The baffle could cause too much heat in an area and damage the stove. Could screw up air flow to where the stove doesn't burn as well or perhaps cause more creosote.

I'd consider putting in a flue damper well before I thought about modifying it.


Also... Uh.... I'm confused.... Lukem/jetjr are you the same person? How did this go from one person's thread to another's?

 

I agree with weldr on this one. I don't think it will overheat it. I also agree with the gases getting burned more efficiently. I read a bunch of stuff and it seems that most people like them.

 

Seem to be missing my message.

What is a welded in baffle going to do that a flue damper won't? Sounds like maybe you have too much draft at times is all... And an adjustable damper vs a non adjustable baffle might be a better solution.

As for getting things hot, you could have a "500*" stove, but that doesn't mean all parts are only 500*. If an added baffle concentrates the flame/heat you could be getting part of the stove really hot.
I'm not saying this WILL happen, just was a THOUGHT.

I'm not saying NOT to modify the stove but I think talking to the Blaze King folks may get you some info and less "this might work".
In my dealings with them they are VERY down to earth and customer friendly.

 

I agree with you both. Nate I understand the point of it was engineered this way. Newer stoves all seem to be baffled in some form or another. I did not measure but the tubes are definitely not thin walled. Inlet tube (little dusty in their) outlet tube. The stove is an All Nighter also not a blaze king. I hijacked another thread. Its date of manufacture is 1978.

 

Also no plans on welding mine in. Just lay it on the tubes.

 

Ok, was wondering what was going on with you replying in Lumem's thread!

I was under the impression it was an older Blaze King that was getting worked on. I didn't see the dates till now. The site isn't very "my iPhone" friendly and the dates are faint. I also don't get location or sigs. I say "my iPhone" because it someone works fine for everyone else!

 

Sorry for the confusion. Glad we are all on the same page.

 

Was all me.... Didn't mean to add "drama"!

 

Nah. It makes for more interesting conversation. You also brought up valid points.

 

Dave would 1/4" plate be to thin. I may be able to get a piece free but would rather just do it once so if I have to buy a piece I wamt to do it right.

 

The idea behind the baffle is to keep the gases in the stove to burn more completely (as much as possible) rather than letting them get into the stove pipe.
My 1985 Ashley has one and I could get 2ndary burns when conditions in the stove were just right.
The flames and gases had to go up, hit the baffle, then get forced to move along the baffle before exiting. This would create a cleaner burn.
No warpage, and that stove got very hot at times.......another story that I've told before.
Oh, and in another land....far far away, there were several threads about guys who not only installed baffles, but who also installed 2ndary air tubes in older stoves.
I don't recall any of them having issues with warping.
Didn't "Coaly" migrate here?