I can! But you'll have to take me through your test procedure so that we can compare granny smith apples to fuji apples.
I think this is the only place that sells them around here. They replaced the Eagle Valley pellets sold there.
In fact, it's so new it's not even marked on their dealer list. Looks like it's the first stop for these in Western Washington. http://purcellpellets.com/wordpress/ Egad. What an utter crap wood site.
That looks like the dust, even if you cover it you would need to dry it, so why bother covering something you still have to dry.
Hmmmm.... now we're getting closer. It appears Purcell is owned by North Idaho. Apply for a Trademark. Search a Trademark
I can say North Idaho makes a helluva pellet and they have the best energy logs on the market. I don't know if they bought this site out or what but I will say they are owned by a strong wood manufacturer company which is highly respected in these parts.
These guys do it and their line of pellets are some of the best I've ever burned. Olympus, Sierra Supreme, Cascade, Snohomish Co-Op, Coastal Farm and Ranch -- whatever you want to call them.
dotman17 I tried some Purcell’s a couple seasons ago. For me they were just ok. If you grab some to try, interested to hear what you think of them.
Yup. I screwed that up. It's too late to edit my post above, but I had noticed that when I was looking at a bag of AWF white pine I have left over from last season. On the AWF products, it has both... The ink printed code is when the bag plastic was printed, but there is also a dot matrix embossed dot marking (similar to NEWP) which is the date code when the bag was filled and sealed. So discount the date codes I mentioned above. I have, however, definitively found date codes on the Green Supremes (already documented on this site), the Lignetics Pres-to-Logs, and the AWF products. The locations and format moves around, but they are all embossed dots printed into the plastic. I looked and looked and can't find anything on the Clean Energy bags. I also checked them with a back light thinking they may have used UV sensitive ink to print the date code, but didn't find any evidence of that either. Not saying that either of these are not present, just that I can't find them.
I swear I just found this. Some independent chart that some small mom and pop shop company put together. I have been saying since I joined this site that my experience with Bear Mountain products and Pacific Coast Pellets was very close but I gave the slight edge to Olympus/Sierra Supreme (pcpellets) over Bear Mountain/Golden Fire (bmfp). https://buckspellets.com/wood-pellet-comparison-chart/ Both are quality pellets and you can't go wrong with either one -- but I give the edge to Shelton, WA over Cascade Locks, OR. Right now I'm burning Bear Mountains as I just finished my last bag of Sierra Supremes (a.k.a. Olympus) yesterday.
That chart looked like a report on who is using As Received BTU tests and who is using Moisture and Ash Free.
Not a fan of that chart in the least. You cannot generalize box store brands. I understand what he is trying to do but it is not an accurate representation in the least of box store pellets. Most are under .5% ash. And foget the btu rating. That too is a crock IMHO
Oh yeah, it's a sales chart. But I found it interesting because it did list the 2 pellet brands I use as the 'top' ones. Not that I give a rip about it, but I think it does show that I am fortunate to be living in an area that produces a couple of different brands that rate very highly no matter what performance chart we are looking at. But you know.... ... those charts don't mean anything unless they are backed up in here! I believe both Olympus brand and Bear Mountain brand rate quite highly in our logs.
Yeah, you are in the prime spot for pellets thats for sure. Pretty much any choice you make is better than what we can get. At least affordably get.
I would love to test these out for you guys. Seriously, though, what is your process? I'm guessing burn out whatever I have in the hopper, empty the ash pan, investigate the pellet sizes in the bag and any residue in the bag, load a single bag of pellets, start the stopwatch, stop it on completion when the last pellets have burned, and then observe the ash content as well as weigh it? I'm curious about how you get your heat readings. I have an infrared thermometer gun but measuring the airspace is tricky business and I burn pellets in automatic mode -- meaning I am using their sensor. I mean, if I'm going to do this, I want to do it that adds value to the team.
