In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Hello! New here.

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by ForestryMiller, Dec 25, 2017.

  1. ForestryMiller

    ForestryMiller

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    I am new to the entire milling thing and am wanting to get into it.

    I have a few different options. I am wanting to get an Alaskan Sawmill set up. I can get a Husq 372 or 365 and rework it. I used to work in a small engine shop and my old boss said I could have a junker.

    Will these saws do what I want them to do with a mill?


    I have a Husq 445e X-torq I currently use for bucking and limbing and so on. It's served me well with alternating 16'' and 18'' bars and numerous chains I keep sharpened.


    I know yall probably get this all the time, but any help is appreciated.
     
  2. LinkedXJ

    LinkedXJ

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    I dont know didly squat about mills and milling...

    Just wanted to drop in and say hey, welcome to FHC!
     
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  3. walt

    walt

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    Hey welcome to the family! I don't know how big the logs are that you are planning to mill but 372 might be a tad light , 395 would be a lot better. My experience is from noodling large rounds, power and oiling are important.
     
  4. LongShot

    LongShot

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    Welcome to the forum, ForestryMiller. This is a great place to ask questions. I suggest editing the thread title, if you can, to reflect your questions about milling. That'll attract more responses. Good luck and Happy New Year!
    :woodsign: :saw:
     
  5. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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    Welcome to the club, ForestryMiller !
    I think your gonna like it here!

    It's too late to edit (you have 4 hours) but don't be afraid to start another thread. Everyone is friendly here and always happy to help.
    You have found the best forum on the net!
     
  6. Chvymn99

    Chvymn99 Moderator

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  7. chris

    chris

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    No Replacement for Displacement- with the Alaskan style mills you are going to need a bar that is apx 6" longer- maybe more than the width of the cut, for mounting purposes . A drip bottle on the far end is advisable, as well as skip tooth chains rather than full complement. It helps quite a bit to set the log to be cut with the starting end higher so gravity aids in moving the saw along.
     
  8. chris

    chris

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    Another hint make yourself a ton of small wedges/stickers- this to keep the kerf from closing behind your saw and pinching the bar.
     
  9. Camber

    Camber

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    Welcome forestry miller? I hope you had a great Christmas. I lived in SC for about 15 years. Down by Cross. Are you upstate? I agree with chris, having a ton of wedges ready will serve you well.
     
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  10. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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  11. Scotty Overkill

    Scotty Overkill Administrator

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    Welcome to the club! I've got an Alaskan mill, it's the 36" model. And I run a Stihl 046 (an old beater, nonetheless) on that mill and it does pretty well. For bigger stuff, I'll mount up the Stihl 051 to it.

    I'd say a 372xp or MS460/461 would be as small as you'd want to go with a 36" bar. Even then, a skip chain would make it run better, albeit slower. I recommend getting a bigger mill than you think you'll need simply for the fact that you can always run a smaller bar/chain combo on a big mill, but when you need that bigger mill, you have it.

    When running a really big rig (or lots of boards/slabs) I'd recommend stepping up to a bigger powerhead and an auxiliary oiler. Stihl 051/075''s can be had very reasonably, and they make great milling heads. Lots of torque.
     
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  12. ForestryMiller

    ForestryMiller

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    Thank you everyone for the responses. I am looking forward to this project. I will see what I can do about a 395 but he mentioned that he had some 372s laying around.


    Thanks again!
     
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  13. ForestryMiller

    ForestryMiller

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    I am in the Lowcountry. Reside in Georgetown, SC but spend a lot of time in Hampton County on the Savannah River. Also spend some time in the upstate amongst the hardwoods.
     
  14. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    Welcome ForestryMiller
    Before you start with the 365/372, do a wee bit of research. I've heard multiple places that they have too small bottom end bearings to survive well on a CSM. I use the 394 and it's great for the task.

    I have a sister near Beaufort. St Helena Island to be exact.
     
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  15. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    372 and a 32" would be the biggest bar I'd use on a mill. Gives you about 24" of cut with a 30" mill. If you're oh going to to slave 5 or 6 pieces it will be fine. If you want to do 1k bd foot then find something bigger.
     
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  16. ForestryMiller

    ForestryMiller

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    Know many people on St. Helena. Wonderful place.
     
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  17. ForestryMiller

    ForestryMiller

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    Ultimately, I am looking to mill some lumber from say 12-16'' dbh trees, nothing massive. I like to build cutting boards, and smaller tables and so on. Thought about beginning to cut some smaller diameter trees to begin with.

    Going to see what I can do about a 394/5.

    I have always run Husq. Used to work in a small engine shop that was a Husq dealer so am familiar with them. Sthil? I have no personal experience with them. Any tips appreciated on Sthils, I would be willing to make the switch, I guess.
     
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  18. Ashwatcher

    Ashwatcher

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    Welcome ForestryMiller , I dont know squat about milling but you've come to the right place and you're gonna like it here, I guarantee it-We like pics, dogs and beer...and spending you're money on accoutrements to supply your addiction, er I meant hoard, whatever that may be----Nice to meet ya!:handshake:
     
  19. Scotty Overkill

    Scotty Overkill Administrator

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    True Story......:smoke:
     
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  20. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    Have you visited the sawyer section yet? Some cool posts with lots of good pics in there. Here's some pics of some apple I milled a while back. How much should I charge?
     
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