No, not yet. This isn't a new problem. Since the piston was scored, I put in a new jug and piston and hoped that would help. In doing so, I would've removed and re tightened almost everything in there, yet the problem was still there. You've been a big help in the past and you are again. I'll go through it and report back. It'll be a week or two. Stand by And thanks again to you and everyone above.
Ah, knowing that I may lean toward a carb issue. Good luck either way and report back so we all know what helped.
Consulted today with one of our I&C tech's today who is also an engine mechanic as a hobby, big and small. Took him 1.8 nano seconds to say "the boot". I just ordered the rubber; partition wall, impulse line, and bellows's. Hold please!
Parts are due in later in the week so tore the saw down now since I had a few minutes. I didn't find anything glaring at me at the boot or the impulse line. I did find an abrasion on the fuel line. But I didn't really study any of it too hard. I'll replace the fuel line too now. I'd like to know if pattern on top of the piston says anything. This is a relatively new one. The previous one has similar patterns, but not nearly as dramatic.
I’m not the foremost expert here, you want an even wash on both sides. Maybe it’s the lighting but yours looks like the nearest side is more prominent. And the only way to alter is grinding. Appears the near side ports may be opening a smidge sooner? mdavlee an I correct? I’ve pulled my 394 down multiple times to check its internals after lots of mill time. Just for reference, here’s its piston. What erl you using and ratio?
For sure a couple deltas there. Your piston has a symmetrical pattern, seems to have less hydrocarbon, and is pitted at dead center. Mine is for sure a biased pattern, looks less combusted all around and even the older one that I replaced has nothing like the crazing and pitting on yours. That might be an hours in service thing.
Yours is very wet for 50 too. I used the xp oil for a long time till I go into milling, then the smell about gagged me so I switched. The pitting I blamed on fuel quality/age. I cleaned the piston top and it all cleaned off. Here's a pic of the 2150 I ported, with very little time on it.
This is an interested . I had a 353 that was a real good saw for a while . Then it started acting up. I gave it to a friend that likes to monkey with stuff. Maybe it was just a boot problem.
Update... I purchased a new boot kit. I broke the intake port boot clamp and had to get another. ( ended up buying 8 because I was legally stupid) As I waited for delivery I had time to dwell on it and figured since I have the saw apart, get the 346xp upgrade kit. Everything land about the same time and I had a couple hours yesterday afternoon, so I put it together. Machine started, but would die within 10 seconds and the throttle was an immediate kill. Air leak I figured. But how. Slept on it and remembered I had some difficulty with one part. So I pulled the carb today, cleaned the faces and then pulled this anti wear anti colapse devise that I had trouble with. The new boot kit didn't have one. Rebuilt the saw and it runs. Needs tuning, but it runs. It screams actually. So, do I need this part for the long haul?
10-4. Yes it is safe. A guy I know that is very good porting this series of saws removes that piece. All this series saws he has built does not have it in there.
I did not see page two and jumped the gun on my diagnosis guesses. Good To Go. There's a tank vent in front of the rear handle on right side...maybe...does yours have a primer? My thinking on the vent is that the saw will run for a little while until vacuum builds, then it would start to starve for fuel if the vent is not allowing air in. Same with plugged filter or pinhole in the fuel line...lean condition. Would assume that the fuel line would cause problems from initial startup, rather than after running for a bit? #s 503 60 04-01 & 501 62 98-01
